Trojan Boat Forum

Dan,
were getting a little late start this spring, but were going to be putting in the water Friday the 22nd. Were mooring at Catawba Moorings and were in slip 81 or 82. I would love to see your boat.

As promised more detailed pictures of F32 floor.



Hope these will better show what I did. I hope to have in the water in the next few weeks, Just finished new spray rails on my F30 sport fisherman, I think they built the boat interior after they attached the rails.

I did not have the expertise and did not want to invest that much $$ in teak and holly on this boat. I explored all of the alternatives. I wanted to get away from the carpet because it just did not "fit" in my opinion.. Looked at Plasteak, some stuff sold over in Norway and Amtico teak and holly synthetics.. all way too $$$

I found a cherry vinyl laminate at Home Depot that you trim with a blade - the color seems to match the mahogany just fine (male perspective) . Price is about .89 a sq foot and it is real easy to install. Not slippery when it gets wet and it won't ruin the floor if it does get wet. Brown vinyl trim pieces frame out the hatches with silver pull rings. The picture below was just after installation and the seams have laid down nicely. If you are looking for a carpet alternative.. this may be an option on the cheap.

I install for a living, you can not put in boat, it will swell and delaminate, I put engineered flooring in my 83 32, its plywood with a real wood venneer and will not warp. it must be glued down . careful it does get slippery/

Dan Faith:
In your pictures, the top right hand picture, is that the corner of the fridge and steps leading aft? I see there is a hatch in the picture. There is a teak/holly floor in my boat but no hatch in that location. I'm third owner and the floor was in the boat when I bought it 2 years ago. Am wondering, should I have a hatch or does it vary year to year?

Maybe I should have not used the word laminate. I apologize. Trust me with 4 teen aged kids and their friends the floor has been wet and there has been no problem at all. As far as being slippery? The steps going down in to the interior which are solid wood are much more slippery.

That being said, let's put this all in context. I was not about to invest in teak and holly sole for this boat. One day I will have a Hatteras that already has it installed. It looks great and is very stylish. This was an option to putting carpet back down which for me, this vinyl flooring was a better looking option and easier to maintain AND we were able to install this ourselves.

The step up is the dinette area floor. I just saw that picture and wanted to show it was not too far off color wise to the mahogany woodwork inside. As far as the hatch Dan.. I think it does depend on the boat and how the floor was installed. This is a F30 Express.

Here is a picture taken about a month ago.. for about 48$ and a Saturday afternoon.. it turned out well.

Dan Faith wrote:As promised more detailed pictures of F32 floor.



Hope these will better show what I did. I hope to have in the water in the next few weeks, Just finished new spray rails on my F30 sport fisherman, I think they built the boat interior after they attached the rails.

This is absolutely gorgeous! If you don't mind me asking, how much per square ft was this??? I'm in aw

jwrape wrote:This is absolutely gorgeous! If you don't mind me asking, how much per square ft was this??? I'm in aw

Top of previous page... $250 to do the F32 not salon.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ?pid=51940

ready123 wrote:

jwrape wrote:This is absolutely gorgeous! If you don't mind me asking, how much per square ft was this??? I'm in aw

Top of previous page... $250 to do the F32 not salon.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... ?pid=51940

WHOOOOOO! I think that would cost me a fortune to do my Salon. Have to get savin'

TC, Yes that is the stairs and the corner of the fridge. The hatch was not there but when I put new stingers in the bow I also put in a place to get into the hollow keel, I use this hatch to pump out the keel and keep it dry, it eliminates odors and the bilge pumps never run, I have found most of the water fills up the keel first, if water is to were you can see it the keel is full and it holds about 10 gallons. I have put a splitter in my shower pump and now just turn of the pump and pump out the Keel.

Cost of the teak and holy 1/2" plywood was $6.50 sq ft but we are not talking that many square feet for this area.

Dan Faith wrote:TC, Yes that is the stairs and the corner of the fridge. The hatch was not there but when I put new stingers in the bow I also put in a place to get into the hollow keel, I use this hatch to pump out the keel and keep it dry, it eliminates odors and the bilge pumps never run, I have found most of the water fills up the keel first, if water is to were you can see it the keel is full and it holds about 10 gallons. I have put a splitter in my shower pump and now just turn of the pump and pump out the Keel.

Cost of the teak and holy 1/2" plywood was $6.50 sq ft but we are not talking that many square feet for this area.

Capital Idea. That is brilliant. What did you do for the pick up in the keel.. i.e. strainer, hose ending.. pick up..

I just put the end of the hose in the hollow keel, my pump has a strainer built into it just before the pump it's self, it is self priming and can run dry.

Dan,

You've made several references to the hollow keel in your boat. Is this somehow different from the bilge? Can you please explain what you're referring to?

Thanks--

Nancy

Hopefully I did this right and size isn't a problem...
Very basic and crude depiction, and others can elaborate if they wish to, but in general this is what is being talked about. When you look at the hull from the outside, you see the black line - the hull shape and keel. If you look from the inside, you see the bilge as shown by the red line. BUT the red line (glassing across the bilge) is really just a liner that hides the fact that there is a big open space beneath - the keel is not solid, there actually is an open space between its sides.
Most boats have at least one hole or opening in the 'inner liner' that lets gobs of bilge water settle down there as well - which your bilge pump can't do a darn thing about. On my boat, I have to pull up the carpeting and floorboards in the lower cabin area to find these openings - everything from the engine compartment bulkhead back is solidly glassed over.

Captain M,

I learn something new every day, even after years of reading about Trojans. I've seen references to the hollow keel before, but I guess I haven't paid attention.

Your sketch and explanation are very clear. Our bilge is completely glassed over as far as I know. From the forward engine bulkhead back, access is almost impossible what with the battery boxes, generator, and water tank.

In the lower cabin area, the floorboards are easily removed, and we clean that area about once a year. We've never discovered any openings in the liner in that area. Are you saying that it was designed with holes in it? I wouldn't be surprised if ours has been changed.

So what are the approaches to dealing with this situation?

I apologize for the thread drift. If a moderator would like to move this keel discussion, you won't offend me!

Nancy