Trojan Boat Forum

Todd,

I also put my battery disconnect switches in the engine room.

Wish I had not done so.

Even though I have a Fireboy diesel engine shutdown system installed, in the event of an ER fire, I wish I could flip the battery master switches from OUTSIDE the ER.

Just my .02

RWS

Harris,
I wanted to use remote switches but I would not have been able to have as much control over the batteries as I do with the manual switches. I had started to lay it out with the switches under the seat in the aft cabin but it really didnt make sense because the wire runs would have been substantially longer. I figured that since the boat came from the factory with no battery switches and much smaller cables, id be ok with the placement. I also plan on having fuses directly off the battery post. besides I just purchased an old, used six man auto inflating life raft just in case! LOL!

RWS wrote:...in the event of an ER fire, I wish I could flip the battery master switches from OUTSIDE the ER....

That is the recommendation now. If the switches are currently in the ER, you could replace with remote controlled ones from Blue Sea. These operate through a switch at the helm but also have a manual switch on the unit itself. They allow you to retrofit by utilizing your current battery cable configuration rather than extending to a different location for easier access. They are ON/OFF only so to replace a battery selector switch ( 1/2/ALL/OFF ), you'd have to incorporate more than one unit but if you know me, I am against using the selector switches.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/7713/M ... ease_-_12V

I would have used remote switches if they had something other than just "on -off" capability. I thought of adding three remote switches directly off of the batteries before the selector switches but I didnt want to over-complicate things. I am using fuses that are well below the ratings of my battery cables. I totally agree with using remote switches, i just couldnt get them to do what I needed.

Just wanted to thank P-Dogg for stopping by the shop to check out my project! It was nice to finally meet you in person Perry!

Likewise. Looking forward to cruising up and seeing her launch. You've done an awesome job. Pictures do not convey the workmanship that you see in person.

Edging closer, inch by inch!

one new carb is on. I went with edelbrock 8134 carb fuel inlets which use a banjo fitting which drops down to a 90 degree turn and has a fuel filter on the end. in theory it was exactly what I was looking for. In reality I think I can still get it to work. I forgot to take into account the carb wedge that angles the carb. the fuel filter is resting on one of the intake bolts! has some flex to it so I believe I can get something under the filter to protect it, if not I will find a smaller diameter filter.
I have my new copper nickle fuel lines 90% done, im waiting on a single an-6 fitting to connect to the filter.
(im going to repost this on my "replacement fuel line thread" )

Yesterday was exhausting but productive! My friend and I installed the second engine, removed the first engine that we installed a few weeks ago, removed the aluminum engine beds that were to high, (my over engineering and attention to detail bit me in the rear here as they were an absolute PITA to remove! thank god I only used 4200!)
I filled in the previous holes with structural epoxy then drilled new holes 1 inch lower. Re-installed the engine beds then re-installed the engine!
I have two engines in my boat for the first time in 7 years !!!
the engine that i lowered the engine beds now lines up perfectly with the shaft however the port shaft is over an inch to the right of the output flange . I adjusted the engine over to the side the max amount that it would go but it was still about 1/4 inch off and the engine was over way too far. since the height is perfect I have an issue with how i mounted the stuffing box and or strut. i reused the original holes for the struts so i figure its the stuffing box. i had added a few layers of fiberglass to the hull where the stuffing box bolts to so thats where im starting.

Real nice looking install....clean and detailed just right...nice fuel lines...you know if you keep putting stuff back in the boat you won't be able to move around down there quite so easy.....I have a question, how are you thinking to deal with the PCV set up for the engine ? I ask cause I just got a pair of 1409's and it looks like some drilling and tapping may be in order....Mike

Funny you should mention PCV valves. The original engines only had the valve cover "breather" ports that connect to the spark arrestor. While researching carbs I read alot about drilling the blocked off ports to connect a PVC valve. I havent researched the topic enough to make a decision? at this point its going back the way it was but if i determine that PCV valves will work better I may switch. the good news is the valve covers already have the holes in them so it would just be the matter of drilling out the carbs.
how do you like your 1409 carbs? almost went with them but my engine builder told me he thought the 1410 (750cfm) would be a better fit?

That engine room keeps getting smaller and smaller! im dreading putting the exhaust and mufflers back in!

Todd , to answer your question....the eddys are great carbs,haven't installed yet but I have had many of these carbs in the street/race version and they are very user friendly and I have a box full of parts for them.....nice pieces..looking forward to better idle and slow cruise......Mike

found a piece of fiberglass grate to give a little additional support to the bottom of my battery box. both carbs installed and hooked up, shafts aligned ,repainted the oil coolers the correct color and finished painting the heat exchangers , now exhaust going back on. Will need to do a bit of touch up to the bilge before I

Hi Todd,

I love the clean bilge and the ability to step down into it for engine access that you guys with the bigger Trojans have. There is one thing that caught my eye that i'd like to ask you about. Is that float switch installed on top if the bilge pump? If so, doesn't that make for a fairly high water level in the bilge?

Just an observation.