Trojan Boat Forum

PK, you have a series of projects to deal with.

First of all, get that 110 volt house electrical outlet out of the engine room. That's dangerous in a gas boat.

Second, you do not have the proper lid on your waste tank.

The factory lid is fiberglass, the inside of which is gel coated fiberglass with a bvuilt in naffle in the middle. WHat yoiu have appears to be a piece of plywood.

The factory lid is attached to the tank with many many staggered bolts and large washers. It is sealed with 3-M 5200 sealant. It is NOT designed to be easily removed. The waste tank is COMPLETELY AND TOTALLY SEALED. There are three watertight fittings in the top (1) the inlet from the head, the outlet from the tank going to a TEE fitting which goes to the macerator and oerboard discharge OR to the deck fitting for sanitary pumpout. The third fitting is for a VENT that goes over to the PORT side of the boat.

Third, you are missing the vacuum tank. It was mounted on that wooden platform where your diaghpram pump is currently located.

Fourth, you need to secure alll the equipment, wires and hoses in that engine room, loose wires and bad connections.

The bad news is that you have a boat that requires a great deal of work to get her into good operating condition. You want something that is comfortable, SAFE AND RELIABLE. That reliability factor will dictate how much you and your crew will enjoy boating. A toilet that won't flush, or an engine that leaces you stranded makes for a very bad boating experience.

The good news is that if you are handy and have the time, all of these issues can be addressed.

You have a Forum here that is very willing to provide all the assistence you will need.

RWS

RWS: Thanks for adviceing words! As you may see from the pics: I am working with the removals of 110 Volts stuff. First the GenSet, next the 115 Volt battery charger and the wirings.

You are writing the lid seems to be made from plywood board. Thats right! But I will change to Acryllic Lid, 1/2" thick, and put in the fittings for inlet, outlet and vent. But the vent should not be connected with tank, should it? What about the vacuum then?

A vacuum tank....Is it possible to get a "drawing" from the whole system, maybe with the brand of pumps, and also the location onboard?

Both engines are to be changed. I have plans for repowering for diesels. And in the same moment I will "clean up" everything in engineroom, all loose cable, wires and hoses, all pumps and stuff. I have time enough, and just hope I have funds enough also....

But the best thing is this forum, with all good advices and assistance. The only limitation is my bad english.

Here is what the tank looks like:
http://www.northeastsanitation.com/vacuum_tank.html

Dometic group handles Sealand/ old Mansfield vacuflush heads.... most of the parts are still available to fit even the 1970's units.
http://www.dometic.com/enie/
They are in Norway too.

Thank you, Michael!! I will take a look into it tomorrow. Now it´s time for me to go to bed.... My wife is calling

At last there is a new week-end coming up. Tomorrow is Saturday, and I will hoist the GenSet out of my boat. When finished thaat job, it is turn for cleaning up the holding tank, engine compartment and the fresh water tank. (not in this order... ) I still try to figure out what type of engines I will use; Volvo KAMD 63, GM 6,5, Cummins 5.9, or perhaps a pair of Iveco 350 Hp from Italy. Or maybe the new VW V-6 on 325 Hp. Hmmmm....a hard work. Anyway; I will bring in some pictures here tomorrow.

Forget the 65 gm poor choice for a boat IMO for many resons also the VW seems like the wrong choice for a heavy boat . the others are good choices

Thanks again, Paul. I understand the GM engines are "no good" in a boat. The funny thing is they are popular engines here in Europe. But that may be in a smaller boat..... I think I will go for Volvo KAMD 63. Easy on the fuel, easy on the maintenance, cheap parts, the list is long with pro´s. The only drawback is the price. In USA you have to pay about $35000 for a decent salon car, or only 20% of what we pay here in Norway. I have to pay more than 50 grands for each Volvo engine, or nearly the price of two cars. Each.... Still someone keep telling "we are among the richest countries in the world". Crap....

The difference between US dollars and Norwegian krone is smaller these days. So I just wonder if I should find another Trojan and use her for parts. Or maybe try to get an upper part (windows and roof), and make me an hardtop? Is there anyone who have done that work?

One , of the main reasons the GM 6.5 has issues Is they try to get to much power out of it ( for marine), and its hard to get marine parts for it . now if the marine parts are readily available over there and you go with a low HP model then you should be ok if the conversation is a good one , who converts these engines over there ? do you have a link to the company ?


The base 6.5 is not a bad engine

Paul; I am not sure who´s doing the work here in Norway, but think it is GM Norway. But if I will buy GM engines, I will buy them from Canada. Or USA. But I will set for Volvo KAMD 63.

The Volvo engine MINUS all the electronic gizmos might be fine.

My choice is a mechanically injected diesel engine WITHOUT the electronic systems. They are great in an over the road truck that runs every day, bit not in a damp/wet/engine room/saltwater environment.

Much less to go wrong with a mechanically injected diesel.

That's what I have in mine.

RWS

This week-end started out good. After removing the GenSet, I had to clean everything in the bottom. Here is a pic of the well under the generator.

The holding tank. It was a terrible job to clean it up. Here is the third washing, and the last one. Tomorrow I will paint it white.

The well under the GenSet. I will dry everything here, and paint it white. At last I will put up a Battery Bank with 3 x 200 Ah batteries here, on top of the beams. I will also change the bilge pump and hose to a bigger size.
On top over the holding tank I will lay an acryllic lid 1/2" thick, as a floor in the engine compartment. I will also put in inlet and outlet tubes.

PK,

This boat has three bilges.

One bilge pump in each bilge.

The "well" under the gen set is the center bilge.

This handles all the water from the engine room.

All three bilge compartments and the entire bilge need to be debris free. You don't want to stop your bilge pump which is designed to pump WATER not TRASH.

This boat was originally equipped with SIX bilge pump switches, one each for the pumps and one in each bilge compartment to trighger the bilge alarm which is wired into the vessel's horn.

You will find the alarm wiring running along the starboard side of the inside starboard stringer.

Good Luck,

RWS

If the bilge under the GenSet is centre bilge, where is the aft bilge? And the bilge-watch... Is it the red box down in the right corner in the last pic?