Trojan Boat Forum

I've been reading this thread forever. Battery choice should be based on the demand you have (amps) and what you can afford without sacrificing safety (your boat's and your own). The 8D battery is gonna weigh over 150 pounds, and the 4D runs around 125 pounds. So start hitting the gym unless you're already used to lugging around 150 pounds of dead weight.

The space required might be the same as installing 2 or 3 group 30s, but they will weigh about 60-70 pounds each. The cost of a good AGM or gel 8D is gonna run you over $500, and a 4D - over $400. The WalMart MAXX29 (group 30) 125ah deep cycle flooded battery will cost $65 each and they'll last 5 years with proper care. Whatever way you go, PLEASE be sure you use the proper cable size and terminals. Don't scrimp here.

And, check out the ACR from Blue Seas (no I don't work for them). You can always add this later, but it will save you a ton of brain cells over whether or not you're properly charging, maintaining batteries, etc.

randyp wrote:I've been reading this thread forever. Battery choice should be based on the demand you have (amps) and what you can afford without sacrificing safety (your boat's and your own). The 8D battery is gonna weigh over 150 pounds, and the 4D runs around 125 pounds. So start hitting the gym unless you're already used to lugging around 150 pounds of dead weight.

The space required might be the same as installing 2 or 3 group 30s, but they will weigh about 60-70 pounds each. The cost of a good AGM or gel 8D is gonna run you over $500, and a 4D - over $400. The WalMart MAXX29 (group 30) 125ah deep cycle flooded battery will cost $65 each and they'll last 5 years with proper care. Whatever way you go, PLEASE be sure you use the proper cable size and terminals. Don't scrimp here.

And, check out the ACR from Blue Seas (no I don't work for them). You can always add this later, but it will save you a ton of brain cells over whether or not you're properly charging, maintaining batteries, etc.

From wht I have read the ACR isolates the batteries during dis-charge and combines them when charging? Is that right? Do you need just one or one for each bank?

The one pictured is the one I have. It monitors 2 banks. It senses which battery needs to be charged from the charging souce (AC charger or alternator) and then the ACR acts as a switch to either close off charging voltage or open charging voltage. It monitors conditions on a constant basis. I also installed a switch on the instrument panel that allows me to turn the ACR off when I'm gone for extended periods but still have the AC charger trickle charging. This just ensures that the ACR isn't continually monitoring. Check out the web site. Based on the total power you'll be eventually installing you may need a bigger ACR. They sell a "Add a Battery" setup with the ACR and battery switch. Basically it's a $100 no-brainer that will keep your house bank from draining off your engine batteries. It's worked perfectly for me, but just another option for you to consider.

They have really good tech help and you can email them or call them. Like you, I am a technophobe but a pretty quick learner once I get the right information.

randyp wrote:The one pictured is the one I have. It monitors 2 banks. It senses which battery needs to be charged from the charging souce (AC charger or alternator) and then the ACR acts as a switch to either close off charging voltage or open charging voltage. It monitors conditions on a constant basis. I also installed a switch on the instrument panel that allows me to turn the ACR off when I'm gone for extended periods but still have the AC charger trickle charging. This just ensures that the ACR isn't continually monitoring. Check out the web site. Based on the total power you'll be eventually installing you may need a bigger ACR. They sell a "Add a Battery" setup with the ACR and battery switch. Basically it's a $100 no-brainer that will keep your house bank from draining off your engine batteries. It's worked perfectly for me, but just another option for you to consider.

They have really good tech help and you can email them or call them. Like you, I am a technophobe but a pretty quick learner once I get the right information.

Great Thanks

I have found a wonderfully informative book that covers both electrical and mechanical aspects of boating. It is: Boatower's Mechanical and Electrical Manual by Nigel Calder. It cost $49.95 at Borders Books but the book is worth it's weight in gold. I am completely rewiring my 1972 F-25 as well as getting completely new batteries. I was an electrician in the Navy 25 years ago and had forgotten pretty much everything I learned. This book was the Holy Grail in my quest to learn how to restore my boat.

Well I believe we found the issue with the generator:::: YEA!!!!!!!

I had the Cummins South technician come out and service my GenSet on Monday at $99/hr...

He starts by saying, "You know every part on this thing is obsolute?"
I said yes but I'm hoping you can tell me what's wrong and I can find the old part on Ebay or something.
SO, he got started and he traced the power from the coil back to it's source and pulled out this little 1.5" x 1.5" card labeled Onan300A734.

He put the test leads on the top resistor 470 ohm resistor and the FLuke meter went all over the place and then went to an open. He tested the other parts ont hat board and they were good. Upon closer look you could see that the resistor had gotten hot and bled around the leads.

So the Tech says you are getting out cheap. Replace this $2 parts and you should be up and running.

So he leaves and says he's only gonna charge me for an hour and a half. Not too bad. Ended up being $243 some how. I guess taxes or something I didn't get a receipt yet.

Anyways, I went to 2 Radio Shacks to try to find the resistor and they said I would have to order it because it was a 2watt resistor and RS only sold up to a 1/2 Watt. So I was driving home to look this up on the internet and order it when I drove by an old TV repair shop. I stopped in and asked him it he had the resistor. Thank the lord he did. He charged me $3 for it and it's a 2% tolerence as opposed to the 5% tolerence that was on the board. I replaced it and now I only need to slip it back in this weekend and it SHOULD start right up, God willing and the creek don't rise.

Now after new resistor

I looked at the generator batteries while I was there on Monday and saw that there are actually 2 batteries in parralel wired directly to the generator, nothing else.

As you can see in the pic, there are only 2 cables leaving the battery box. One is the ground to the side of the Generator and the other is connected to the solenoid on the side of the Generator. No other leads coming from the batteries.
So now I'm wondering how the house battery is connected.

I am thinking that some how the house power is pulled through the Generator from the these batteries but not seeing how.
It's confusing.
When i go back out there this weekend I plan to trace all the battery wires back to the power panel. Cause from the way it looks here there is 2 12v batteries just staright wired to the generator and that doesn't make sense unless the house battery is wired to one of the motor batteries. I gotta get this stuff straight and isolate everything.....

Suggests to me that you have two batteries for the genny....

My guess is that your house is done via one or both engine batteries. On my F32 all the house 12V wiring comes off one engine's harness... (manuals on the boat so not sure which one, Starboard??).

My options were to put the house battery on that engine and use a switch to go between start and house ( I don't like the chance of starting off my house)... or what I have done which is to wire fridge, stereo & Inverter on the house battery and left all lighting on that engine's battery.... the lights are a small load. When I run my genny all batteries are charged so I'm not worried.
You need to experiment or look at wiring diagrams if you have them... do you have two 12V switches for port & starboard. Do they both service the house lights, stereo, fridge etc oer just one?

ready123 wrote:Suggests to me that you have two batteries for the genny....

My guess is that your house is done via one or both engine batteries. On my F32 all the house 12V wiring comes off one engine's harness... (manuals on the boat so not sure which one, Starboard??).

My options were to put the house battery on that engine and use a switch to go between start and house ( I don't like the chance of starting off my house)... or what I have done which is to wire fridge, stereo & Inverter on the house battery and left all lighting on that engine's battery.... the lights are a small load. When I run my genny all batteries are charged so I'm not worried.
You need to experiment or look at wiring diagrams if you have them... do you have two 12V switches for port & starboard. Do they both service the house lights, stereo, fridge etc oer just one?

I have two switches, one is starboard or port power connection, and the other is shore power to generator power.

I don't have a boat manual. I will have to track the wiring down.

Ya know what! It just hit me!
My House is connected to at least one of the engine motors. Reason I say is because I have ran the house battery down with the radio and then couldn't start one of my engines without using the Emergency switch to cross them over.

That's it, it's gotta be connected to the engine battery....

Duh!
I definately gotta do some seperating this weekend. I believe I have enough cables down there. I have a few extras in the tool box that came with the boat, prolly from where they changed it all up......

Wow, I'm glad I remembered that. It should make it a little easier to figure out.

So wire that extra battery on the genny into that engine for now, then split the engine starting batteries so that you cannot run both down....
This is just a suggestion for now... I still stand by my initial layout as the preferred.

ready123 wrote:So wire that extra battery on the genny into that engine for now, then split the engine starting batteries so that you cannot run both down....
This is just a suggestion for now... I still stand by my initial layout as the preferred.

Yea, i think I will go ahead and pick up another starting battery to put on the Geni to isolate it and give it a little better starting Amps, then seperate off the house connection, once I find it, from the engine batts.

Basically the only issue is making sure I find out where the charger connects, to connect it to the house bank.

Ok, os here is how I plan to set it up this weekend.
The house batteries will be using the two deep cycles that I already have and the 3 engines will have high cranking amp starter batteries.
I think this will correct any issues and make for a good setup with what I have.

Looks good... So only question is how to get the house load onto the house battery set?

ready123 wrote:Looks good... So only question is how to get the house load onto the house battery set?

Yea, I haven't looked around enough at the cables to see where the power leads come from the 12v breaker box.