Trojan Boat Forum

Well guys THE ENGINE FITS!!! 1/8 " clearance on the top of the carb ( thats with an adapter for an edlebrock carb that raises it a easy 1/2 inch) and the manifold risers by 1/2"

Glad its working out .

Good to hear. I was a little concerned about the manifold risers. The 350 engine block must not be as tall as the 318. Glad to hear it fit.

Ok I dont know if I am cursed with bad luck or what but "the boat mechanic (aka Wag... boat yard in Leonardo NJ" has had my boat for two and a half months now. His job was to install the engine into the f-26, balance, align, install drive shaft, prop, tune, test drive ( sea trial), and set it up on my trailer. But there is always two things daily that he told me, the good news is...... and then the bad . The manifolds I purchased from Trojan bob were cracked, I had to purchase new ones that are a different style (after they had already cut the engine hatch for the old ones) and had to have them re-cut the engine hatch again. The thermostat housing isn't correct for FWC your boat I bought that from michigan motorz.com and it still says FWC on their site but whatever. The RPM Gauge doesn't function I had them replace it even though I know it does work I used it with this engine already but whatever. Then they had to "re-wire" the engine to the dash which was functioning perfectly with the old motor, I left them the plug and the wiring diagram its 8 wires FML. Then my engine wont go up past 3000 RPM and he says its a prop issue.? I don't think you can take 1000 rpm out of a prop without replacing the entire prop. I drove it it goes to 3000 rpm and bogs down like the secondaries aren't opening or its not getting enough fuel, either way I was F&*()_ing done with the waiting and the bullshit, So I told him to put it on my trailer so I could pick it up I have had enough run around with this guy. I am obviously a filler client that he gets to eventually while working on bigger ticket items. And he already stole almost 3 months of time from me this season. I picked up the boat this past Sunday 4 am so I can tow it to my marina park it and work on it there with out hitting traffic. I put the plug in and notice that other than the engine NOTHING WORKS! not a switch, a light, a gauge, radio, NOTHING. So I look in the fuse panel on the chit behind the head I open the panel and its a BIRDS NEST IM SEEING RED NOW! I redid it all last season two new fuse panels new buss bars etc. I am fuming pissed at this time stealer mechanic and words cant express the joy I will have spending more time repairing my boat while not being able to use it re-doing what was already done ( I am not too happy with Trojan Bob either every used part not some but EVERY part was bad and needed to be replaced or rebuilt. The only good news in all this is that my Trojan is worth more dead than alive. I have a hefty insurance policy on it and a very big shotgun. FML

Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble. I was really hoping this was going to be an easy install with few mods. Sounds like you've hit every bump in the road. Hang in there and see it through. She'll be a fine vessel when you get everything like you want it.

My V drive is currently apart (don't ask why ), and the gear set is a 1:1 ratio. My transmission is a PV32R which should be a 1.5:1 ratio, but the gear set was obviously changed to match the stock ratio that Trojan had in the boat. I hope I didn't lead anybody astray when I thought I was running a 1.5:1 ratio. My boat is running the OEM drive train of a 1:1 ratio and 15 x 11 prop.

After further research I determined that all Paragon PV transmissions (PV31, PV32, PV33, etc.) have a ratio of 1:1. The gearing to change the ratio is in the V drive housing. The transmission part of a PV31R and PV32R are therefore identical. What a PO did with my boat was swapped the PV31R transmission with a PV32R transmission but kept the PV31R V drive. The casing that I'm using to replace my damaged original casing is from the PV32R V drive. I'm only using the casing and not the gear set, so my ratio will still be 1:1.

I also learned that Paragon had three different versions of their V drive. My version is the "6A" version. The first two digits in the serial number are 6A. I know they also made a 6B version and I'm assuming the third version is 6C. The 6A version has the water cooled casing.

I don't need another 6A casing but if anyone comes across one in their travels that's for sale please let me know. I'd like to eventually have an extra 6A casing in my garage as a backup just in case something goes wrong with the PV32R V drive casing I'm using for the current rebuild. Thanks for keeping your eyes and ears open for me.

So the F-26 is running fabulous with the new 350 I had to change the prop out so I went with a acme ( they have an amazing 3 blade with as much surface as a 4 which I wanted for better handling during parking my single screw) 13x9 3 blade in order to turn 4600 Rpms i had a 14x12 on prior and I couldn't get any more than 3500 out of her so I went down in pitch and size I am now up on plane at about 1800-2000 and cruising at 20 kts at around 3800. wot is at 24 kts. I think this is all that she will do and I'm pretty happy at those speeds ( the F-26 is not a speed boat ). I took it out on Monday for about 15 mins in 6 foot swells for shits and giggles and she handles it pretty damn well for a small boat as long as the tabs were all the way up, as soon as I bowed down I was slamming into every swell. And the same goes for a following sea I felt like I was surfing back into the inlet. It was fun lol but the repower was worth it. Painstaking, costly, and frustrating but well worth it. I figured out my fuel usage to be (cruising speed) around 7.5 to 8 gph. And if I had to do it all over again I would have spent the money on a bobtail instead of building the motor myself.
Nothing more to report for now oh if anyone needs a 15x11 Rh prop or a 13 1/2 x 10 Lh prop let me know. 1" shaft I can't use either of them anymore if not there going on my wall lol

Glad to hear it all worked out. I'm hoping I feel the same way about my transmission/V Drive experience next Spring. We'll see. PM sent about the 15 x 11 prop.

I'm glad it all worked out. That first high speed run kind of makes you forget all the problems along the way.

That's good news, glad everything worked out for you. It's well worth it in the long run, enjoy!

Wolf,
Thanks for posting. Glad to hear that it all worked out.

I'd love to get a list of the parts and part numbers that you needed for this repower.

What year engine block did you use? Doesn't look like it's a Vortec.
What exhaust manifolds did you use? I believe the center rise exhaust manifolds would be too tall for the 71-72 F26's.
Besides modifying the hatch, were there any other mods you had to do get it to fit?
Did you have to do anything to the stringers at the engine mounts?

If you didn't run into the problems that you did, what do you think the total cost would have been for parts?

Thanks, enjoy your new boat.

VAbeach1234

I used a 1974 engine block ( I would recommend just getting a Marine power bobtail two links at the end) rebuilt with crusader parts

In the pictures above on page 7 I used a pair of slightly used end rise manifolds, they were not good (cracked) so there are center rise manifolds in it now that fit no problem.

The stringers needed no modification in fact the 350 mounted to the exact spot as the 318 both front and rear trans mounts are in the same location.

This is pretty much what I did. And how much it cost me.
Dont forget you are doing a full repower you cant use any old parts from 318


http://marineenginedepot.com/20012/0/Me ... ong-Block/ $2650.00 Brand New long block
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/motor-mou ... p-439.html $122.00 Engine mounts.
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/dart-dual ... p-921.html $364.00 Intake Manifold
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/genuine-c ... p-797.html $229.00 Bell housing for paragon/ZF hurst tranny
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/edelbrock ... p-349.html $469 Carb
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/freshwate ... -p-86.html $780 FWC kit
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/marine-pa ... 32_76.html $120 pulleys
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/marine-al ... p-301.html $269.00 Alternator
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/arco-moun ... p-764.html $259.00 starter
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/volvo-pen ... p-272.html $99.00
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/mercruise ... -1944.html Manifolds $1,100.00
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/performan ... -3502.html $299.00
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/volvo-pen ... p-563.html Fule Pump assembly $610.00
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/transmiss ... p-631.html DAMPER PLATE $179.00
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/dual-cool ... -3324.html Oil Cooler $310
I think I left out a few items like belts, hoses, ect. that exceed another $450.00 but you get the Idea it totals to over $8500 plus you have to put it all together and pray for no teething issues like I had.


But I should have just bought ( and I would highly recommend )
http://www.michiganmotorz.com/complete- ... -p-61.html $7,200.00
or
http://marineenginedepot.com/20054/0/Me ... e-Package/ $7,100.00 ***** GREAT ENGINE PACKAGE*****[/color]

With the last two options you just need a bell housing and a damper plate and you are good to go. obviously re wire everything to the new motor and new gauges. may be needed.
You can also put a 302 5.0 V8 @ 250 hp with fuel injection as it will fit perfectly, just remember not to exceed 260 hp b/c the PV31 V-drive can not handle any more than 260 @ 4000 rpms max as per specifications.

I hope this helps
Happy boating.

Pewp on Chry. Again.

Want diesel? 6v53T. Buy one surplus.

In a F26 ? Do you know how big a 6V53 is ? 2200 lbs ( plus gear)and noisey .