Trojan Boat Forum

I just finished up my new taft rail. I deleted the previous owners construction grade pressure treated 2x6 and replaced it with Ipe. This wood is TOUGH and dense. The rod holders are drilled trough and mounted with backing plates, but the two mounts on top for the bait table had to be tapped for machine screws.

The finish is multiple coats of pure tung oil.









I made this little jig so I can start my hole saw for the rod holders and the perfect angle.

Looks great and Ipe is some good tough wood . But I wonder how it will hold up if a large fish hits hopefully ok

Cool BJ, Did the rail you got work on your boat?

Larry

Looks really good!

larryeddington wrote:Cool BJ, Did the rail you got work on your boat?

Larry

Hi Larry,

Believe it or not, I have not tried yet. The taft rail was a definite safety item and as soon as I sort out the exhaust issue, I'm going to haul out and re-do all the lower hoses, stuffing boxes, and re-condition my through hulls. I'll probably jump on that rail right after that. I've been sidelined most of the winter with a medical condition, but starting to come around now.

I put radiator drain valves in all of mine, however I am not in Salt Water. I think the threads are 1/4 NPT but just try a 1/4 NPT tread, if it is right then get the proper tap. I have drain on either side of engine and 2 or three on the manifold riser. The big plugs are a nightmare to get out and can break off so would leave them alone, I had to drill those and do some careful work with small cold chisel. If I had left them alone they would have been fine.

I just checked a 1/4 in NPT tap against one of the plugs I took out of the manifold and it is 1/4 NPT X 2 per engine, so total of twelve. All the others were as well. That is one in the lower middle of the manifold and one at the base of the riser and one on the side of the block. That is for Chrysler 318's. I think brass ones would be fine as you can get them out in the future. Bronze better. Mine came with steel ones in it.