Trojan Boat Forum

I installed indirect lighting in the salon of my F36. The lighting provides a soft light that fills the salon with the perfect light to lounge, entertain, or just to kick back and watch TV. You won’t be able to read with this light, but that’s not what it is intended to do. I used a 30’ clear Quantus Accent Light kit, commonly known as rope lights or neon tube lights, and ran it around the salon between the valance and curtains. These lights are commonly seen during the Holiday Season and are 120V. A.C. lights. I purchased the kit from Menard’s Home Center, but I’m sure they or similar lights can be obtained at many different stores. These lights produce almost no heat so there is no problem with contacting the ceiling or anything else. The rope light is hidden by the valance, so only the light washing the curtains can be seen. Since there is no way to cover the rope light, I did not run it across the windshield. On my F36 there are curtain tracks that run the length of the salon and has a third draw drape track on the rear. There are three valances that cover the tracks and top of the drapes. The rope light is tucker between the valance and the track and just above the curtains. This was one of the first things I installed when I bought my F36 in 2000. The manufacture claims that the average bulb life is 20,000 hours. If their projection is correct they should last another ten years or so.

I secured the rope light to the ceiling with ½ “ nylon straps, every 8”, with stainless pan head screws. I placed the clamps that close together to insure that the rope light would be held tight to the ceiling without sagging and rubbing on the top of the drapes. (Don’t use the plastic clips or screws that come with the rope light kit, they are brittle and break, and the screws rust. The clips also hang down more then the nylon clamps and can rub on the drapes.). I temporarily removed the rear valance and put notches in each end so the rope light could pass through the valance. I started on the galley side of the salon so the plug end would wind up in the overhead console at the helm. I had to drilled a hole so the rope light could enter the console. Rope light can only be cut at predetermined places. There is some rope light that will be inside of the console. To keep the light from illuminating the inside of the console, I wrapped the excess rope light with black electrical tape. I cut off the plug and extended the wires so they could be wired directly to the switch.

I installed an outlet box and duplex switches next to the helm in the starboard wall in the plywood panel. I tapped an outlet and supplied power to the switches. Yes, I said switches. The second switch supplies the rope light I installed around the cockpit. Its installation is almost the same as the salon, starting on the front port side, ending at the front starboard side. It was fastened behind the fiberglass lip so the rope light can’t be seen so only the cockpit is lit with the soft light. One problem that is easily corrected, that I haven;'t done, is to paint the inside of the fiberglass lip. At night , the light from the rope light can be seen through the fiberglass. To me it isn't that big of a deal, but it would be better if the light didn't come through. To do it over I would paint the inside of the lip before installing the rope light.

Care must be taken. These lights are powered by 120V AC and proper wire and installation is required. If anyone has any questions about their particular installation contact me, I’m sure they can be worked out.

OK Gerry .... great discription, but a picture or 2 would be great also. I look forward to seeing your workmanship.

Sorry, pictures will have to wait. My boat is in winter storage and I won't be able to get any shots of the lighting until spring. If there is still intrest then, I'll post some photos.

I Bought some rope lights a few years back to do the samething . I have put 10 grand into the boat in the last year and the lights are still in the box . but its on the list

Paul, I bought my lights after the Holiday Seaon when the price was discounted by 50%, and if I remember corectly they were under $20 per kit. Since you have the lights you can can install them without much more expence. $25 more should be more then enough to buy the clamps, screws, switch, box, and wires. You may have many of these things laying around and have to spend even less, but the lights are well worth the costs and effort even if you have to pay full price for everything.

I am not to fond of the tape idea. I do know tape will get real sticky when the heat is on it over time. I think I would do something else. Maybe split a hose or tubing of somekind and put it over it. Just my opinion. Anyway keep your eye on it and it might just be fine.

i have considered doing this exact thing although i believe i am going to use 12v led strings this will probably cost more but i believe the energy savings on the battery while anchored out may make up for it. the previous owner had already installed a 120v cockpit rope light and i use it when i am at the dock and when its on it really looks neat. i guess i need to put a amp meter on it and see what the invertor draws before i totally make up my mind on which way to go. but which ever way i agree it does really add to the mood.

reelfishin, Good point.

I like the idea of using a split hose to cover the rope light inside the overhead console. Why didn't you tell me that when I installed them If I was doing it again I would try using it. I installed the lights 9 years ago and I haven't had any problems with the tape. The rope light produces very little heat so I'm not worried about the tape and see no need to change it now.

That's what is so nice about this forum, you can get many good ideas from members that think about things you haven't thought of.

g36, Wrote

i guess i need to put a amp meter on it and see what the invertor draws before i totally make up my mind on which way to go.

A 30 foot rope light uses less then 60 watts of power. Your inverter should easily handle that.

I did the same thing on my boat with 4, 12" led strips on each side. The strips have 24 leds in each and were about $10 each on Ebay. The best thing about the job was there were flourescent fixtures there before so the 12V wiring was already there.

Just zip-tied them to screws from the old fixtures and spliced them to the wires already there. The switch, above the door to the cockpit, works for the new lights as well as 2 little can-type spots I put in the middle of the ceiling. (was able to run a wire for the can lights when I replaced the rotten core in the flybridge deck)

Love those led lights...could leave them on for a month without running the batts down.

hi yes the invertor will handle it but it would use more energy than leds use. i can buy a bulk length led rope and make my own custom lengths, i would probably use these around the dinette, maybe the in galley or head.also am looking at changing the cabin lamps to leds for power savings. i am running trojan t105's deep cycles for house so i do have enough capacity we anchor out a lot so just like to conserve where i can.

The rope-light idea has really got my attention.It sounds like a reasonably simple inexpensive upgrade.I like the idea of using LED 12 volt lights to have the flexibility of using them both at the dock or on the hook [no inverter].thanks....