Trojan Boat Forum

has anyone replaced their table at the dinnette of their f32. if so with what and where?. just thinking this area would appear alot nicer by replacing the original laminate table. any thoughts? or have you just replaced the laminate?

Since the table fills the space between the two benches, the size and shape of the table is pretty well set. That is assuming you will still want the dinette to be able to convert to a bed. That being the case, the question now is what can the table be made of? Weight of the material is one factor that must be considered. A nice slate, granite, or marble top might look great, but it wouldn’t be very practical to raise and lower. Replacing the original laminate is certainly one way to change the look. Laminates come in a wide range of patterns and colors. Many come very close simulating the look of stone. The lip on the edge of the top also help thing stay on the table in rough conditions.

A friend replaced his top with mahogany planks. He started by glued 5 or 6 mahogany boards ½” thick together to form the top. He glued and screwed a piece of ¾’ plywood to the bottom of the top. He cut the mahogany and plywood 1 ½” smaller then the original top. The top was edged with more ¾” thick mahogany. The edge that meets the wall was put on first. It was 1 ¼” wide and was exactly the thickness of the top and was mitered to match the side angles. The back edge of the top is cut at an angle to match the wall. The other 3 sides are edged with a piece 2” wide. The top edges were rounded with a router and the corners mitered and routed. The wider edging formed a ¾” lip around the top of table top.

The same method could be used with prefinished hardwood flooring. It comes in a wide range of wood types and colors.

He said the top was a bit heavier, but was managable. The top was stained and varnished and the old hardware was reinstalled. It came out looking very nice.

I removed the laminate table out of our F 32 and made a new one out of 3/4 cherry veneer plywood and edge banded it with solid cherry to form a raised lip around the edge. It came out looking really good, I did put 5 coats of high gloss spar vanish on it. I am thinking of making a new one though after seeing the one in one of the posts here of the "highly modified trojan". It had the table sitting on a post instead of the wall mount bracket that is original to the f 32. I have despised that system since I purchased the boat. I have had it pop out of the bracket once when the kids were leaning on it, of course it had dinner on it when it happened, what a mess. I'm going to be making a new counter to match the table this spring as soon as the boat is unwrapped this spring.

G36

P. S. I do custom woodworking if you want one made.

Yes, that damnable dinette table will launch your dinner with a small lean ...

We seldom remove it, so we zip tied it to the wall mounts so it wouldn't "launch", but thats a pain if someone wans to sleep there ...

WHEN I UPDATED MY GALLEY I CONSIDERED SOLID SURFACE OR GRANITE BUT WEIGHT WAS THE ISSUE. I HAVE POSTED MY UPGRADE A COUPLE OF TIMES AND I WENT WITH THE NEW HIGH DEFINITION LAMINATE DUE TO WEIGHT. THE TIPPING OF THE TABLE I OVERCAME WITH PINS THE SLIDE INTO THE BRACKETS ON THE SIDE (A POOR DESIGN TO BEGIN WITH THAT A SIMPLE LOCK COULD HAVE TAKEN CARE OF). IF YOU GO WITH A WOOD SURFACE I WOULD SUGGEST POLYEUROTHANE (I WOULD USE FLECTO BY VALSPARE AND IT HAS HELD UP ON MY OAK FLOORS AND TEAK IN THE BOAT EXTREMLEY WELL)

Dan could you possibly post a pic of your solution. I have a Bracket that runs the width of the table and have been looking for a good solution for this issue.

and i thought i was the only one that had the table come loose durning supper. it was only through my quick flight attendant reflexes that averted a food disaster on the other half and the dog...... i would love a solution that made the table more secure.
aaron

Aaron, here's your solution and I'm gonna use the same idea.

http://www.marineengine.com/products/ac ... .php?g=385

Hi-lo table bases and extensions. Of course you'll need to build it so you can remove a portion of tube quickly so you can rest it to make the sleeping bed. Remember, the table won't lower directly straight down due to the slant of the starboard interior wall. By removing the tubing- you're set. But all of the pieces are here.

do they have a fixed solution? i really don't need the hi-low option. i was actually looking at the rv catalog i have and they have a similar style, fixed, for far far less dough.
would that work?
aaron

IN LOOKING AT THE LINK I LOCATED ANOTHER OPTION. THIS ONE IS FOR A TABLE TO CONVERT INTO A BED SEE LINK BELOW SAYS IT ONLY GOES UNDER THE DECK BY 6" I WOULD GUESS IF YOU DON'T NEED THE TABLE THAT HIGH YOU COULD CUT OFF A PORTION OR NOT USE THE MIDDLE DRAWER.
http://www.marineengine.com/products/ac ... in=1892525

AARON, IF YOUR NOT GOING TO USE AS A BED A FIXED HEIGHT WOULD WORK BUT YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN THAT UNEXPECTED GUEST DROPS IN.

DAN

Yep- that works...

Just cut-off what you don't need so that when it's a berth, it'll fit.
Just have the tube sit flush inside the base. or...reverse the set-up, (tube assy.)whichever is shorter in your configuration... Does that make sense?