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Transom Door

Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 9:23 am
by millrock
Happy Holidays; I have a 1988 11 meter Trojan International Express. Im thinking about having a transom door cut into the port side, the marina I am in does fiberglass work and states that there would be no problem and that the strength and integrity of the boat would not be a problem with this new addition. Has anyone had this done and if so about how much did it cost you. Any ideas greatly appreciated. Thanks Phil

Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 11:19 am
by summer storm
I think normally the door goes on the starboard, but I could be completely wrong. You might want to flip through yachtworld.com or boattrader.com and look at some photos before you make that first cut. But then again you may have already checked this out.

Just trying to help

Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 1:33 pm
by millrock
Thanks for your idea Summer Storm, I have seen the doors on both sides and we were undeciced at first but then I figured out that the tank for the trim tab fluid was on the starboard side of the transom so that made our choice real easy.

Posted: Fri Dec 25, 2009 11:45 am
by prowlersfish
starboard side seems the norm , at least with the most I can think of that came with them. But I can think of one in the center on a F32 and one on a F36 on the port side . both were added on and they had very good reasons for where they put them. ( nothing to do with the boat just their needs)

Posted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 7:25 am
by LSP
...did they give you a rough idea of the cost? ... if you don't mind me asking

Posted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 7:49 am
by Tuck
LSP wrote:...did they give you a rough idea of the cost? ... if you don't mind me asking

as i read this, i was asking the same thing...i would love to do this if it didn't cost as much as the boat is worth.

Posted: Sat Dec 26, 2009 11:04 am
by g36
although a door would be great. dont get me wrong however you guys that have f boats like my f32 with the wood rail that you must climb over to get in the boat from the swim platform might (as i did) buy the correct hinge parts from beacon and install this in the rail so that you can just flip the rail out of the way to get in or out . it was one of the best things i did. it was a real pain climbing over the railing but now its no big deal, dont even need the assistance of the little step to get in or out. i know this isnt a door but does make getting in or out much easier if thats a goal. imo.

Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 12:07 am
by ready123
I took my rail off, filled the holes and now enjoy the added seating area when at anchor.

Image

Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 12:10 am
by prowlersfish
Glad the F36 has no rails

Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 5:52 pm
by chauzer
you removed the rails and i want to make mine taller. leaning out over the rails as they are now, a guy would fall out! the factory rails are too wimpy to hold 4 downriggers with rod holders so i'm building new rails out of rough cut 2x6 oak. the 36's must have taller gunnels then the 30's or 32's.

Posted: Sun Dec 27, 2009 7:57 pm
by foofer b
Chauzer, you oughta use landscape timbers, they are thicker, cheaper and have lots of knotty areas for a bit of a rustic look.

Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 12:07 am
by chauzer
i will have to check into that. i was going to do them in black walnut but at around $100 bones a board foot,oak is around $17 bones. i would really like to build them out of aluminum diamond plate, someday (maybe)!

Transom Door

Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 7:47 am
by Molly Too
Millrock, if I could figure out how to post pics I'd show you more of how I did mine. I use Picasa - which might be the problem. See if my avatar helps.

Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:57 pm
by foofer b

Posted: Mon Dec 28, 2009 9:59 pm
by foofer b
test again

Image