Rhino Lining or something similar for deck?

MTurvey · Post by **MTurvey** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 5:27 pm

My deck has some spider cracking & cosmetic issues and I thought maybe painting or spraying on some kind of protective coating might help. Has anyone done anything like this?

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 5:58 pm

I've heard some bad stories on Rino Lining your deck.

I have the same issue, and haven't come up with a good solution yet. Prior owner put a thick coat of paint with grit in it on the front deck. Its very "grippy", but prone to cracks.

Thoughts?

Rodman · Post by **Rodman** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 9:55 pm

rossjo wrote:I've heard some bad stories on Rino Lining your deck.

I have the same issue, and haven't come up with a good solution yet. Prior owner put a thick coat of paint with grit in it on the front deck. Its very "grippy", but prone to cracks.

Thoughts?

Mine is also in cracking. I am going to strip mine, I was thinking coating it with Two part Polyurethane. A deck demands a tough coating to protect it from the damaging effects of foot traffic, anchors and other gear that descend upon it. Two-part urethane paint is your best choice for the job. It provides the most durable, abrasion-resistant, longest-lasting finish. Contrary to popular opinion, two-part paints are not beyond a noviceâ€™s skills to apply. Working times are manageable (6- to 8-hour pot life), and you can attain a highly satisfactory finish with a brush.

The three most important factors in getting a good result are preparation, preparation, and preparation. Seventy-five percent of the cost of painting involves preparation. Any paint job is only as good as the preparation that precedes it, and the skill of the people doing the work. Improper preparation can only result in dissatisfaction and a failed paint job.

Interlux Interthane Plus is especially well suited for deck refinishing. Itâ€™s a two-part linear urethane developed for brush application using the roll-and-tip method. After rolling, the roller stipple and roller marks level out with a high quality natural bristle brush. Itâ€™s easy to apply on decks where the non-skid pattern is already present or one is created with the addition of a non-skid additive. Interluxâ€™s Polymeric Noskid Compound is a manmade plastic sphere additive for transforming decks into a non-skid surface. Its regular shape diminishes the tendency to collect dirt and has excellent non-slip properties.

A current trend is to use dark colors, especially black, to change the appearance, such as painting the space between windows black, or wide feature stripes. Because dark colors absorb much more heat, painting large areas in dark colors can result in damage or distortion to the surfaces being painted. Remember that fiberglass boats are plastic and somewhat heat sensitive. Because these plastics are thermosetting, a dark surface heats up under the sun and then the plastic continues to cure. This often results in shrinkage that can seriously distort the surface, resulting in permanent damage. The most serious damage occurs with cored laminates, particularly foam. You may have noticed some boats have a checkerboard pattern within these painted surfaces. This is caused by a secondary cure resulting from painting a cored laminate black that leads to shrinkage and the core showing through.

willietrojan · Post by **willietrojan** » Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:36 pm

This is what I used on my boat, works and looks great

http://www.nonslipcoating.com/

Rodman · Post by **Rodman** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 12:06 am

willietrojan wrote:This is what I used on my boat, works and looks great

http://www.nonslipcoating.com/

That stuff looks like a winner to me. Thanks

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:01 pm

Wow that does look great. How hard is it to apply, and does it hold up?

Rodman · Post by **Rodman** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 2:25 pm

foofer b wrote:Wow that does look great. How hard is it to apply, and does it hold up?

Durabakâ„¢ floor coating and industrial coating is a tough, one-part polyurethane with self-contained recycled rubber granules, which give it an attractive tough-textured appearance. When exposed to atmospheric moisture, Durabakâ„¢ undergoes a chemical curing process which changes it from a liquid to a tough polyurethane membrane. Durabakâ„¢ will chemically bond to most clean and dry surfaces. These include, but are not limited to, concrete, wood, fiberglass, metal, rubber and soundcoatinged materials. It can be applied by roller, brush or spray. Durabakâ„¢ can give a relatively smooth or rough surface, depending on application technique.

* Won't crack, chip or peel
* Resistant to Saltwater, fuels and chemicals
* Available in a variety of colors.

It must be good here is list people that have used it.

It's durability, adhesion and non-skid characteristics are particularly noteworthy... It is indeed a worthy competitor in the coatings industry."
-Brown & Root, Inc.

"has performed most satisfactorily in extreme cold conditions."
-Dept. of Environmental Affairs, Antarctica

"Durabakâ„¢ is a safer...more comfortable... can be repaired...cheaper due to it's long life."
-Viking Fishing Co., South Africa

"cut accidents to almost nil...easy to apply...Performs as advertised."
-Army National Guard-Ft. Stewart, Georgia

"your product can be used on our ships for non-skid service"
-Department of the Navy
"your Durabakâ„¢ product has proved a valuable commodity...simple to use"
-Department of the Air Force

"even though tractor tires with chains spun on it, Durabakâ„¢ remained unharmed"
-Douglas County Schools, CO

"has displayed the durability and traction we could not achieve with other products"
-University of Colorado (Football Stadium)

"full sun, snow and ice...no deterioration"
-Sierra Pacific Power Co., NV

"This is a superior product."
-County of Sacramento, CA

"since the application we have not received any reports of accidents on loading docks"
-Air Products, PA

Peter · Post by **Peter** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 7:09 pm

are you selling the stuff or what ?

chauzer · Post by **chauzer** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 7:25 pm

i had my cockpit floor sprayed with spray in bedliner and it is holding up great. of course i don't have the saltwater to deal with either.

Rodman · Post by **Rodman** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 8:00 pm

Peter wrote:are you selling the stuff or what ?

No,

I just posted what I saw on there site...

cookscomp · Post by **cookscomp** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 9:30 pm

I redid my hardtop last spring because it was cracked around the perimeter where the metal trim is. Years of neglect let water get in there I guess. Anyhow the previous owner said his kids liked to jump off the hardtop into the water. So I used the durabak to cover my hardtop to be safer if my monkeys wanted to do that as well. Sometimes I wish I had just painted it white but it gets a lot of compliments with the durabak. My kids arent ready to jump so who knows. I think its very durable. The stuff has alot of rubber particles suspended in the paint and although it provides great traction for shoes, it seems uncomfortable for bare feet to me. I'm not sure if I'll do my decks and cockpit with it. Industrial is more its place in my opinion.

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:00 pm

How does one removeit without damaging the gelcoat ?

Rodman · Post by **Rodman** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 10:37 pm

cookscomp wrote:I redid my hardtop last spring because it was cracked around the perimeter where the metal trim is. Years of neglect let water get in there I guess. Anyhow the previous owner said his kids liked to jump off the hardtop into the water. So I used the durabak to cover my hardtop to be safer if my monkeys wanted to do that as well. Sometimes I wish I had just painted it white but it gets a lot of compliments with the durabak. My kids arent ready to jump so who knows. I think its very durable. The stuff has alot of rubber particles suspended in the paint and although it provides great traction for shoes, it seems uncomfortable for bare feet to me. I'm not sure if I'll do my decks and cockpit with it. Industrial is more its place in my opinion.

I really like the teak around your boat.

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:02 pm

I find it interesting that the discussion is only about how to cover up the spider cracks etc: with no discussion on whether they may be a sign of further problems below the gelcoat surface?

Anyone else think they may be the result of soft core causing poor support and flexing of the deck? Or anything else???

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Jan 17, 2010 11:24 pm

Some times it can be a sign of problems other times it may be nothing to worry about , gel coat can crack and everything is fine underneath . being the area its in (rear deck) you should be able to feel the soft coring , and even if was bad is it that big of a issue ? . resealing the cracks can help seal the coring stop future issues . I would bet there is a lot more boats with some craking in the gel coat then not . fiber glass will flex but the gel coat takes the worst of it