Trojan Boat Forum

I'm looking forward to launching my new tri cabin this spring (or early summer). I was never able to talk to the previous owner, but it apears that there may be a leak in the port fuel tank. This is a '73 and the fuel tanks are under the solon floor. I can see how to get access by removing the floor. They used 2" NPT galvanized pipe for the fill and I can envision swinging that in line with the tank. I can even see how a few guys might be able to lift it out into the solon. I figure it wieghs around 150lbs (if it's empty).

My question to anyone out there is what's the best way to get it out of the cabin. The tanks are 20" diameter and the windows and doors are 19"...... I think I can get more solon to aft cabin doorway width by removing the door as well as a bunch of molding. I might even be able to do that with the solon windows.

Just wondering if anyones done this what trojan oriface did they shove the tank thru to get it off the boat. (and what did they remove to get enough room to get the tank out). Thanks inn advance for your help

Do you not have a large access way in the salon ceiling? My '79 has an access way there through which the couch, refrigerator, queen sized mattress, stove, engines, fuel tanks, etc. will easily fit. The ceiling liner has to be partially removed and then the opening unlocked and removed. It is about 6 feet wide by 8 feet long.

Sea Dog, This opening, on your boat, was primarily for future engine replacement. (engines under the salon sole) Bob's '73 model has engines aft, under the berths. jimbo36

I removed both fuel tanks from my '74 tri-cabin three years ago. I had pin hole leaks.

I had to pull up virtually then entire salon sub-floor. Some of it I sawed into smaller sections.

You are correct, the empty tanks may be man handled, carefully out through the back door.

I subsequently had the interior of each original tank "coated" and then re-installed them. They have worked fine ever since.

While I had this all torn up, I took the opportunity to install a new 25 gallon fresh water tank just inboard of the starboard gas tank (under the setee) (I figured that the old fresh water tank might develop similar leaks and so bi-passed it.

At this time I also installed a new vacuflush in the front head, installing a 25 gallon black water tank just inboard of the port gas tank. The vacuum assembly is located directly behind the Onan generator and it and both tanks are accessed through the front steps.

Hope this helps

Rick, Thank you for your note. Everything you mention is what I plan to do. I was thinking of doing the starboard tank and water tank next year, the port with head holding tank this year.

Can you tell me it was easy? This would help me mentally to get started on it.

Thanks again for your help

Hi Bob,

Wish I could tell you it was easy.

The salon floor was tough for me. You've got to dismantle the stock setee and yank up the carpet (and of course there's no room to store what you yank up.) I filled the V bunk area with flooring, wallboard etc. My boat was in the water for the whole process because it was mid summer when the pin holes reared their ugly head. And yes, the salon walls do have to come out. Number each floor piece with a magic marker.
You will have to sabre saw some pieces out, around the edges of the salon.

Re-installing all that stuff is a lot of work. I hired a carpenter to re-plug and then re-finish the screw holes in the teak wall board. The original carpet installer who installed my carpet in the salon in 2001 came back and re-installed it. (looking back I should have got new stuff because it was never the same) If you can hire on some help, even for three days, it will make it all a lot easier.

One good reason you need to investigate coating the inside of the tanks is because the bedding for these round tanks is much easier for you to reuse instead of starting from scratch with rectangular replacement tanks. I have been pleased with the results and would do the tanks in this manner again.

All in all, it was a darn big project. The good thing is that there have been no hick-ups since. No leaks or issues on account of this work having been done. I had the marina mechanic re-hook up all the gas lines. I just knew that I would foul something up.

Looking back, it was helpful that the boat was in the water for this work, because there was no waiting around to fire up the engines once the tanks were re-installed. We did a sea trial up and down the lake with no floor in the salon in order to look for leaks etc. Everything went well.

I'll tell you what. These are grand old boats. The more we took it apart, the more impressive the original workmanship.

Best of luck, Bob. Keep us informed and if you get time, take some photos that could help provide future reference points for users of this forum. Wish I had done a photo history of my re-fit.

Rick, You know, my Trojan might be different than yours...My fuel tanks are between the stringers (where the engines would be if they were in the solon). It sounds like yours are out board of the second stringer from the keel (outboard), that would put yours under the solon walls. That sounds worse than hard to get out. My tanks also have some big 2" galv filler pipes. I can see that I have to turn the pipe in a couple different directions to get it in proper orientation to clear everything. I'm hoping I can actually turn this pipe.

I know what you mean about admiring how these boats are built. I think mine has spent more of its life in a barn than on the water and for that most of her is original and in pretty good shape. I've been taking pictures of everything I'm doing and look forward to helping others who need it on the forum.

I was just looking at mine, i have a hatch in the middle of the salon, which i think either a genset or possibly a holding tank was there at one time, but its just a big hole in the floor right now so I can crawl down there and it appears that i would be able to get to the tanks that way and get them out with a little bit of cussing and bending in unusual ways to get to the fittings, so you might be able to get at it that way, if theres nothing under that hatch. I'll try to get a pic for you tomorrow. dont know if that helps or not.

Hi Guys,

All 3 of us have the same gasoline tank arrangement. I apologize for the confusion I caused when I stated in an earlier post that I had installed two 25 gallon tanks "inboard" of the gasoline tanks.

In reality the new 25 gal fresh water and black water tanks are directly forward of the gas tanks ..... so if you pulled out the 3 steps that extend down to the front head and peeked inside, you would see a new 25 gal fiberglass tank on either side and then directly behind them the round steel gas tanks.

The thing with the tanks is that both of them extend pretty far toward the stern and I felt that I needed to remove the entire salon floor. If you don't think that you will also need to do so, then you will save a lot of work. Hopefully you are right.

You both are no doubt also aware that the first riser in the rear salon steps that descend to the bedroom is hinged and flips up in order to allow access to the gas lines. By glancing in there you will get a pretty good idea just how far the tank extends rearward.

My generator is still in place in the middle of the salon under the hatch. I didn't wish to get into the job of trying to remove it for better tank access.

Rick

Rickalan35-

I just got mine and just about everything in the salon area, well, the whole boat has been stripped is why I could crawl down inside that hatch, haven't really had the time to explore everything [that's left] in the boat. if you look at my post 36 tri-cabin you'll see what i mean. lol

Thanks guys. It all makes sense now. I'm going to dig into it this weekend if it's cold and rainy (i live in Michigan so you never know), otherwise I'm painting the aft deck with Durabak non slip stuff.

I also still have my generator and I think it actually might work, but I'm not even thinking of touching that till maybe next year. I do agree I don't ever see needing it.

Yesterday I pulled the floor, floor braces and all piping, mounting straps etc... The port tank is ready to come out. The Trojan engineers designed the floor structure to swing out of the way without even having to pull all the electrical harnesses that run thru the structure. The only cable I removed was the romex that services the solon electric heater.

So now I'm ready to remove the port tank, but I haven't figured out how to remove the door frame. It appears that the solon/aft cabin door frame and door jam are one piece. I see I need to remove the door and only one side of the door frame to get over 20" which is thhe tank diameter. I removed the wood plugs and screws on the port side door frame, but the frame still won't come loose. Has anyone ever removed the solon/aft cabin door frame? If so what holds it besides the screws????

Thanks in advance for any help.

I'm posting this last comment for anyone that is trying to remove their fuel tanks on thier 73 tri cabin. I did get the port tank out. Even though the tank isn't overlly heavy you do need at least 3 (4 is best) men to handle it. 2 at a time and the 3rd for the transition areas.

The aft cabin/solon door frame and jam are one piece. After removing the door frame mounting screws on the striker plate side, you will need to take a 1" puddy knife and using it like a chisel clear the area between the door frame and the wall. Once that is done the entire length of the frame, the frame piece shouuld come out. The only other thing to do is remove the door so that you get about 20 1/2" to clear the tank.

Hopefully this helps others.

Good job, Bob