GAS PEDAL

[larglo]

Hi gang,

Got to take Ms Glory out yesterday for a spin. All went well except for one thing (other than trying to get her back into the slip ) and that was the gas lever. I got her up to just under 3000 RPM, with a GPS speed of 16 MPH, (is that good, for an F25 with a 318 Chyslar?) but couln't hold it, cause each time I tried to remove my hand, the lever would start to slip back and reduce speed. It just wouldn't stay put, till it got down to around 5 or 6 MPH. (forgot the RPM at that speed).

Question; is there a way to adjust the lever, so it will stay put, where ever it's put?

Thanks,

Larry

[randyp]

First of all you should be getting up to 4200 RPM with top speed of about 25 mph on GPS. Secondly, yes you can adjust the tension on the throttle lever by removing the two small screws that hold the cover down and then adjusting the tension screw (it may be a nut - can't remember). You can also adjust forward limit of the throttle by turning the screws on either end of the cog. Remove the cover and you'll see what I'm talking about. Suggest you have a mechanic check out why you're only getting 3000 rpm on WOT (wide open throttle).

[wowzer52]

larglo, 16 knots at 3000 sounds about right for an old boat. Because my engines are getting higher hours they are loosing some of there spunk. With a FULL boat I run 3200 rpm at 16 knots. But I carry alot of junk and keep my tanks full. There are a lot of changes in the boats performance with weight changes. A loaded boat acts completely different than an unloaded boat. Water tanks full, fuel tanks full, personal belongings, all this weight will alter the performance of your boat.... Back to your question. Like Randy mentioned, if you take the cover off and look at the throttle connection on the dash you will see that it is a simple setup and easy to adjust, common sense. There are clamps on both ends of the throttle cable, dash and trans. Once you look at them you'll see the adjustments for tension. The trans end of the cable may be easier to tighten. Make very small adjustments when tightening this clamp. I'm sure there are some others here that will give more detailed instructions if you need, but like I say, once you look at it you'll see how simple it is.

[Big D]

The return spring on the carb is bringing the cable back. DO NOT remove the spring as some people do. It will bring your vessel back to idle should your throttle cable snap. Once you locate your tension adjustment on the control, I think on the right side of handle at pivot point for starb and left side for port if twins. Adjustment is a happy medium between keeping the lever at WOT without it returning on it's own, and not so tight that you really have to make an effort to throttle up.

You should also check that your stop screws are set properly (if they are there) to ensure that you are providing enough travel at the carb for WOT. If you have stop screws, back them off and see if you get futher travel at the carb.

[larglo]

Sorry, if I implied I was at full throttle. I only took it to 3000 RPM, I still had lots of throttle left. I actually haven't tried to open it up yet.

I'm still getting use to how the boat handles, so will take it one step at a time.

Thanks for the help on adjusting the tension on the throttle lever, it will be nice not to have to hold it all the time. I am working on the front windows right now, and have a complete list of items yet to do.

While I was out, I also found out I'll have to go back to the anchor that was on the boat when I bought it. After stopping in a small cove, I put out the river anchor I thought I would use, but noticed the boat was moving closer to shore. I think I now understand why a mushroom or river anchor won't work with a cruiser like it did on the pontoon. It came with what I think, is a Danforth?
Well, that's another story.

Thanks, Larry

[turtlem1969]

Larglo- for what its worth- I use to use a danforth with my f25 and found it took several attempts to get it set, this is in the ocean, switched to a plow style anchor with same amount of chain, and it sets the first time every time even holds strong when the currents change without the need to reset.

[ready123]

While I was out, I also found out I'll have to go back to the anchor that was on the boat when I bought it. After stopping in a small cove, I put out the river anchor I thought I would use, but noticed the boat was moving closer to shore. I think I now understand why a mushroom or river anchor won't work with a cruiser like it did on the pontoon. It came with what I think, is a Danforth?

Larry how much rode did you put out? Unless the wind/current was strong that anchor could have worked OK for such a light boat... next time try to put a lot of anchor line out.
Do you have chain on the end of it or is it all rode/rope?

[captainmaniac]

In addition to Ready's comments re amount of rode, the type of anchor you should be using depends on the type of bottom you are trying to anchor over... soft and sandy, hard, weedy, rocky -- different styles of anchors work better than others depending on the situation. Plus you will need a different weight anchor depending on what type is it.

[larglo]

I put the anchor directly over the side of the stern and when it hit bottom, I tired it to the cleat. When I noticed it seemed to be getting closer to the shore, I held on to the rope, ah,,,rode, and I could feel it go slack a little and then tighten up. I thought the current was pulling it across the bottom. I don't have any chain on the river anchor.

I'm in a large lake (Percy Priest) outside of Smyrna, TN. (Nashville) The bottom is a mixture of mud, rocks, and even trees, from what I'm told. Depends on where on the lake you are. That's why I was worried about using the Danforth, getting it stuck in the rocks, etc.

I always thought all ya did was throw the anchor off the side of the boat, and tie it up when it hit bottom? I saw some kinda formula about how much rope to let out, but I didn't what the he-- they were talking about.

Larry

[prowlersfish]

The more line you put out the better the anchor will hold a Length of chain really helps . and never use Polly line as it floats .

[wowzer52]

larglo, with 10 to 20 feet of chain on the end of the rope then connect the anchor to the chain, throw the anchor off the bow. The chain holds the shank of the anchor down so the anchor flukes will dig in and stay. Play with it at the dock and see how it works. If you are in twenty feet of water let out approx. 120 ft of rode (line) this will be approx. 6 or 7 to 1 scope, one ft. down to six ft. out. Being in a lake you may not need this much. Just use what it takes to hold. But the chain is important. Turtlem is correct on the plow type anchor. They set easy and stay with less scope. I anchor in strong current on the Columbia River with a CQR swivel plow anchor with 25 ft. of chain and use a 3 to 1 scope with great success.

[prowlersfish]

I use a Danforth and a short chain I use about 20 feet of chain if over night other wise a 6 foot section . I know you should use a scope of 6 or 7 to 1 But most of the time I get by 2 or 3 to 1 .

[captainmaniac]

Don't want to get into a pissing match with wowzer re throwing vs lowering the anchor... but proper anchoring procedure would be :

• - approach anchoring area from downwind
  - stop forward motion of the boat and begin backing up - slowly
  - lower anchor from the bow until it hits bottom (reverse motion of boat should hopefully make sure flukes are pointing in the right direction)
  - pay out line as you continue to slowly back away from the anchor (once you get it moving backwards, the wind may be enough to keep you going without re-engaging the engine)
  - total line to pay out is based on desired scope - perhaps 5:1 in 'calm' situations and up to 10:1 in really bad stuff (and I am sure everyone else has their own version of what scope should be used in what situations - refer to Chapman's or I assume there is a US Coast Guard Safe Boating guide or something like that for the official recommendations) -- and remember scope is based on distance from where the line goes over the side to the bottom - not just water depth... so if you are in 10' of water and your bow is 4' above the surface, you want 5x(10+4) = 70' of line out
  - as the boat backs down to the right scope/distance, put some resistance on the line (hold on and pull, or wrap around a cleat), to 'set' the anchor (ie dig it in to the bottom)

Once set, you should be okay. If you grab and hold on to the (tight) line, you can tell if it is dragging or not ... if you feel a vibration, you are dragging. If not, you are probably solid.

As others have said, adding several feet of chain between the rode and the anchor also helps set it easier - the weight of the chain helps make sure the anchor is digging in, and reduces the chances of pulling it up and free when the boat tugs on the rode or rises over a wave or wake.

West Marine has an Advisor that talks about what anchor to pick based on bottom type http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... ght-Anchor

If you are concerned about a Danforth getting snagged, there is also the idea of a 'trip line' - a thin line around the back end of the anchor with a float on it... if the anchor snags you essentially pull around behind it and pull it out backwards.. couldn't find any good references for trip lines quickly, but this might help (last item on this page) http://www.sailtrain.co.uk/anchoring/choice.htm

[ready123]

I put the anchor directly over the side of the stern and when it hit bottom, I tired it to the cleat.

That is why you drag it... so next time do the same thing but instead of tying it off when it reaches the bottom put out 3-5 times as much rode as it took to reach the bottom. I think you will find that you will stop drifting with this new procedure.
I don't think you will need to change your anchor for your application... though I think you should if you were staying over night.

[larglo]

I found out where and how to adjust the tension for the gas lever. Haven't had the chance to check it out yet, but will let you know how it performs.

Thanks,

Larry