Trojan Boat Forum

Is it possible to connect 2 bilge pumps to a single 3-way bilge switch?

Thanks

Larry

Yes, however, why would you want to do that?

You have a greater chance of both pumps failing should a circuit malfunction. A dedicated switch, wiring and float for each pump is the way to go...

I Agree, each pump should have a dedicated switch. They should also be fused seperatly so that if the fuse goes on one pump, the others can still operate.

Hope this helps,

With limited funds, I was hoping to hook both pumps to one switch, until I was able to purchase the second switch.
But, I agree with you on the two switches, and will have two, as soon as possible.

Thanks very much,

Larry

Often in a pinch you have to do what you have to do. Separate is best - one will work, if it is rated for the amp draw, until you can get the second.

Never thought of the amps,,,,will check, thanks for the tip!

Larry

Standard wiring on my F32 is single 3-way switch (off, fwd pump, aft pump). I haven't looked at detail how the wiring is done, but each pump has its own wiring, float switch, and fuse in the panel. Pumps are also wired directly to the the battery cross over system, so they have power from any live starting battery even if battery switches are turned off.

Larry, the cost of a switch will not be that bad, probably less than the extra bilge pump and wiring. I agree that you should have dedicated switches/circuits for each bilge pump. The 3-way switch may be a viable option. If you have an auto bilge pump be sure it's wired to a switch and direct wired (with fuse) also. Check out that it functions in auto mode by submerging the sump area in water. I have a dedicated manual bilge pump that's plumbed into the hollow keel area. The pump is located in the hanging locker where the old manual bilge pump used top be. I have it wired to a push-pull switch on the instrument panel. Switch is located just below the other "stock" bilge pump switch. Just another option for you to consider.

I've got 3 different bilge pumps, one forward with its own float and switch, two at the stern one on each side of the "tunnel" each with their own float and three way switch, plus a spare with about 20' of wire attached for emergency service. all the switches are on-off-on, payed 20 bucks a piece for them.

I have two bilge pumps also, one forward and one in the rear under the rear floor hatch. My main problem is who had the boat before me changed the wiring colors. at each auto pump. The wiring color at the switch on the dash panel is different than whats at the pump. When I bought new pumps, I thought I had them wired to run OK. The rear pump may be working, not sure, but there is no water present. When I try to turn them on manually, they don't come on.

Not wanting to take a chance on them not working, I was going to buy new 3 way switches and rewire both pumps, based on the diagram that came with the new pumps using a 3 way switch.

I replaced the front 500 GPH pump and got a SAHARA 1100 GPH, and will replace the rear as soon as I can, but I know it still operates for now.

So, I was hoping to use one 3 way, till I can get the second. Will have to check on the amp thing, but I don't think I'll hook both together, judging from everyone comments about it.

Thanks for all the help, very much.

Larry

Would it possible/wise to wire an auto float pump, such as the Sahara 1100, directly to a battery, using the proper breaker, and not wire it to run on manual?

Just a thought?

Larry

larglo wrote:I have two bilge pumps also, one forward and one in the rear under the rear floor hatch. My main problem is who had the boat before me changed the wiring colors. at each auto pump. The wiring color at the switch on the dash panel is different than whats at the pump. When I bought new pumps, I thought I had them wired to run OK. The rear pump may be working, not sure, but there is no water present. When I try to turn them on manually, they don't come on.

Your problem could be pump, switch, fuse, or wiring. Why not just disconnect the pump and hook a DC voltmeter up to the feed wires to confirm if you have power or not when you flip the switch, and which is positive / negative? Then at least you know there is juice. Swapping the switch won't do you any good if there is a fundamental problem in the feed wiring.

Also re your Q re running on float switch only - a float switch can fail (or be pinned down by floating debris in the bilge), so you should always have manual switch as well. Plus float won't trip the pump until there are several inches of water in there - manual switch will let you get rid of some water even if there is not enough to float the switch.

Good to have a switch for manual operation, float switches do fail. The only thing I would caution is that you not get a set up that has an "OFF" position (auto - off - manual). I've seen far too many older boats where these were accidently toggled to "off". NOT GOOD. Also a good idea to have the manual side as a temporary position. When you let go, it returns to the auto position.