Trojan Boat Forum

One of my cruise air units is having issues. It was working at first, but only blew cold for a little bit. Now when it turns on it draws a ton of amps, then finnally clicks and stops humming. My ac guy said they could have a bad ignitor. Does anyone have any info on this ?

thanks.

I'm no A/C guy but it sounds like a bad compressor to me. Never heard of an 'igniter' in an A/C.

Igniter? Did they say what the igniter was or what it does? That's new to me, so curious to know what it is.

I take it you have two compressors and two condensing units, no heat. Sounds like a compressor has gone bad. If reverse cycle, could have been a reversing valve. But either way, most likely looking at a replacement of whole compressor...

Not sure what an igniter is for in an A/C unit, but I agree - sounds like a compressor to me.

Could be a bad capacitor they have a start and a run capacitor. I had to replace mine for the same reason. Is it poping the breaker ? ? is it pumping water ?

Sounds like start capacitor also. I believe you have the same setup as my boat. Get the numbers off the top of the compressor and take the to a AC supply house so the can get the correct capacitor. It is a specific voltage and MF. You can also try a hardstart capacitor to kick the compressor over. Helps alot if you have low supply voltages. The capacitors are inside the control cabinet on each unit. The start capacitor is black plactic and the run capacitor is metal. You can also remove the capacitor and take to supply house to see if they can match it.

Prowler, was yours popping the breaker?

it does have water flow. what supply house should i call ?

I am or was an ac guy for an number of years, sounds like compressor is failing to start, could be stuck, could be windings shorted, could be run capacitor or "if" it has a start capacitor could be the start capacitor or its relay. You probably will have trouble finding anyone willing to replace the compressor only but it can be done and is the most cost effective fix if indeed the compressor is bad.

There should not be anyghing called and ignitor on it. I would run from the guy who says it is the ignitor. He might also refer to a bad gold farb device. (hahah)

Larry

I recently had one failing to turn on and it turned out to be the compressor overload protection went bad. It was a cheap fix. I would check that and the low cost components mentioned before before turning to the compressor. But it could still be a bad compressor in the end.

bobg wrote:I recently had one failing to turn on and it turned out to be the compressor overload protection went bad. It was a cheap fix. I would check that and the low cost components mentioned before before turning to the compressor. But it could still be a bad compressor in the end.

The starting capacitor is a simple electrical device which can give an extra voltage jolt or "boost" to get the hard-starting motor spinning.

The starting capacitor in our page top photo is oval in cross section, but most replacement and many newer air conditioner motor starting capacitors are simply cylindrical in shape.



ive used these on hard starting compressors.



http://www.inspectapedia.com/aircond/aircond15g.htm

What you do not want to happen to turn a stuck compressor into a nasty burnout, that fills the sealed system with acid and phosgene (sic) gas. Start capacitors should be sized correctly for the given compressor with a starting relay to match. What is shown in the picture is a general use starting capaitor or booster setup. Good systems will have a start cap, separate relaty and all will have a run capacitor usually aluminum color. Any of these compononents could cause the problem.

He propably needs some advise from a service man and it does not have to be a marine tech to diagonose compressor starting problems.

In checking a compressor the first thing is power off three wires to compressor disconnected the Ohm out each of the three pins coming out of the compressor all should show continuity with each other an none open (assuming the compressor is cool). 2nd none of the pins should show NO continuity to bare metal on compressor housing, which would indicate shorted windings. If all checks the compressor is either stuck or the run/starting components are not doing their job.

Sometimes you can unstick a compressor with a starting capacitor but it will tick again eventually.

Larry

speaking of AC, i have a f32, with one unit. lately, the weather has been butt-hot down here, and the water temp is about 92+ here at the marina (at least according to the temp gauge on the waverunner). within the last couple of weeks, it has seemed that the unit is cooling less and less, and that you have to stand right in front of the vent(s) to get any cool air on you.

with this said, i called an AC guy and he showed up to take a look today. according to him (and the guy who referred him to me i trust 100%), the unit doesn't need freon...it's just that the water is so damned warm, coupled with the air temp, it's fighting to cool the boat. he also said that i really should have 2 units, considering the size of the boat and the unusual amount of glass/windows.

oh...he also said that the pump that circulates the water is running hot. it's running the water thru well enough, but he said it shouldn't be so hot, and with that, that the pump is probably short for this world.

so, i guess with all that babble, my question is this: how many units do you guys with f32s have? for those with one, if there are any, is your cabin cool enough? and lastly, does anyone have any suggestions on how i might get it a tad cooler in the cabin...apart from springing for an additional unit?

To behonest i was going to install rv ac in my boat maybe in top port hatch





has anyone seen these hatch fans?





http://www.adventurerv.net/fantastic-ve ... -p-86.html