Insta trim levellers not working.
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Insta trim levellers not working.
Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum, I just purchased a 76 30' Express Cruiser (Miss GG from a guy in Elbow, Sask.)that came with no manuals whatsoever so I will be asking lots of questions, looking for advice and giving my 2 cents worth. Forums are not new to me, I used them allot when I was rodding my 38 Dodge pickup.
It was a windy day and a rough lake when I took it out for a wet test,upon powering up I noticed stb.engine was running a bit warm, opened hatch to find a core plug had popped (old plug just tapped back in),back to the marina we went.. The next time back to the marina was to haul out for winterisation. That is when i found out the trim tabs were not working, motor makes noise when activated but no movement of the tabs.....hmmmmm not good. I pulled the hoses off at the pump, hit the trim buttons and no fluid squirted out, checked fluid level and it was good, re-installed the hoses and left it at that as darkness was coming and still had to tarp it off for the winter. It looks like the original setup ( completely orange housing and tank).Has anyone here had similar problems with theirs? My first thought is a pickup tube that has fallen off in the tank, second thought is bad solinoids ( but why both sides, you would think one side would work at least). The tabs are not frozen, when pulled down by hand, they return back up with a snap (lots of return spring pressure_) Can the pump housing (orange box)be opened? It looks like the two halves are fused together (but that was just a quick look under the orange tape that is over the joint), there is a sticker that says return to Boat Levellers Inc. for service, but I'm not that kinda guy. I rely on the forum Guru's for advice. Any input is greatly appreciated. Glenn.
It was a windy day and a rough lake when I took it out for a wet test,upon powering up I noticed stb.engine was running a bit warm, opened hatch to find a core plug had popped (old plug just tapped back in),back to the marina we went.. The next time back to the marina was to haul out for winterisation. That is when i found out the trim tabs were not working, motor makes noise when activated but no movement of the tabs.....hmmmmm not good. I pulled the hoses off at the pump, hit the trim buttons and no fluid squirted out, checked fluid level and it was good, re-installed the hoses and left it at that as darkness was coming and still had to tarp it off for the winter. It looks like the original setup ( completely orange housing and tank).Has anyone here had similar problems with theirs? My first thought is a pickup tube that has fallen off in the tank, second thought is bad solinoids ( but why both sides, you would think one side would work at least). The tabs are not frozen, when pulled down by hand, they return back up with a snap (lots of return spring pressure_) Can the pump housing (orange box)be opened? It looks like the two halves are fused together (but that was just a quick look under the orange tape that is over the joint), there is a sticker that says return to Boat Levellers Inc. for service, but I'm not that kinda guy. I rely on the forum Guru's for advice. Any input is greatly appreciated. Glenn.
Landlocked! Yes, but that won't deter me from trying to find my way out to sea.
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Just reading about your problem I would guess it is something common to both sides. That would be filter or strainer, check valve or pressure valve. The other thing is the pump could be air locked or sucking air. It would be nice to see a diagram of the unit. That is what I did when I had a problem on my unit. I found a diagram of the unit and a trouble shooting guide on the internet.
Mine was a simple fix. A bad O ring on the emergency lower screw.
When you tell me that you did not see oil coming out of the hose that tells me that the solenoid is not getting power to operate that side or either side. If you can prove they are working then I really suspect a stuck check valve or pressure valve. That is where the schematic comes into play.
I checked the site for insta levelers and looked at the Parts pictures.
There is a bypass check valve. It could be stuck. There also is a tank pick up tube and a fliter. If you mess with the check valve you may mess up the pressure setting. You would have to make sure that was not changed.
I am not a expert but have worked on hydraulic systems for years.
Mine was a simple fix. A bad O ring on the emergency lower screw.
When you tell me that you did not see oil coming out of the hose that tells me that the solenoid is not getting power to operate that side or either side. If you can prove they are working then I really suspect a stuck check valve or pressure valve. That is where the schematic comes into play.
I checked the site for insta levelers and looked at the Parts pictures.
There is a bypass check valve. It could be stuck. There also is a tank pick up tube and a fliter. If you mess with the check valve you may mess up the pressure setting. You would have to make sure that was not changed.
I am not a expert but have worked on hydraulic systems for years.
Fishing Chesapeake Bay and Off Shore Virginia.
1988 11 meter Trojan International 450 HP 671TI Detroit Diesels
1988 11 meter Trojan International 450 HP 671TI Detroit Diesels
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Hi Guys, thanks for the welcomes.
I checked the Insta Trims web site before posting, the parts pictured on their site is of the new style pump. Mine being a 76 looks a bit different so it must be the old style. I can't find anything about the old style pumps,but I did see they have a universal pump wiring harness and pump that would fix my problem if I can't get mine working properly. Just more $$$$$.
I just thought I'd put this post on the board, as I have all winter to get advice, maybe someone with a vintage boat has run into the same problem I am having and could give me a head start as to where to look. Glenn.
I checked the Insta Trims web site before posting, the parts pictured on their site is of the new style pump. Mine being a 76 looks a bit different so it must be the old style. I can't find anything about the old style pumps,but I did see they have a universal pump wiring harness and pump that would fix my problem if I can't get mine working properly. Just more $$$$$.
I just thought I'd put this post on the board, as I have all winter to get advice, maybe someone with a vintage boat has run into the same problem I am having and could give me a head start as to where to look. Glenn.
Landlocked! Yes, but that won't deter me from trying to find my way out to sea.
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- Location: Diefenbaker Lake, Saskatchewan
Tom,
Sorry I have no photo of my pump unit and I just spent the morning going through yaghtworld looking for a pic of what I have, but came up empty. My boat is 500 miles away so i will try and describe it to the best of my ability, the housing is all orange including the tank. It looks similar to what the replacement unit from InstaTrim is but has a more roundish figure,smoother corners, I'd say kinda pear looking. There is orange vinyl tape (like electrical) that starts about 2/3 of the way from the bottom of the housing and goes over the top to 2/3 down the other side. I peeled a bit of tape back, it looks like this is where the housing separates in two halves, but it looks to me that this joint is fused together. It may have to be cut to separate. There is a slotted screw just above the midway point of the the housing on the face of the unit, I'm not sure if this is to fasten the two halves together of if it holds something in place on the inside. I priced InstaTrims replacement unit from a local marine shop, gotta price of $420.00 Canadian.
Sorry I have no photo of my pump unit and I just spent the morning going through yaghtworld looking for a pic of what I have, but came up empty. My boat is 500 miles away so i will try and describe it to the best of my ability, the housing is all orange including the tank. It looks similar to what the replacement unit from InstaTrim is but has a more roundish figure,smoother corners, I'd say kinda pear looking. There is orange vinyl tape (like electrical) that starts about 2/3 of the way from the bottom of the housing and goes over the top to 2/3 down the other side. I peeled a bit of tape back, it looks like this is where the housing separates in two halves, but it looks to me that this joint is fused together. It may have to be cut to separate. There is a slotted screw just above the midway point of the the housing on the face of the unit, I'm not sure if this is to fasten the two halves together of if it holds something in place on the inside. I priced InstaTrims replacement unit from a local marine shop, gotta price of $420.00 Canadian.
Landlocked! Yes, but that won't deter me from trying to find my way out to sea.
I have a '77 and the Insta Trims were installed when the boat was new (actually built in 76) so I bet ours are the same. Don't just look at the website, but email or call them. I had problems with mine and they were very helpful. Nothing much has changed with the basic systems (it's just hydraulics so it's not all that complicated), but the people there are good to reach out to. I think you mentioned this, but make sure your reservoir is full. Shine a flashlight into the opening and you'll get a good idea of the level. Use Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF).
Randy P
1977 F-26 HT
"Blue Heron"
1977 F-26 HT
"Blue Heron"
As Randy said the folks at Boat Leveler are helpful, they are good competitors and I have heard good things about their service.
It sounds like a Boat Leveler pump, and you might have a wiring or connection fault, or a faulty switch Look over what I have put together for you, check all the connections at the pump and switch, and try the troubleshooting.
Here is the wiring for Boat Leveler (as we last checked).
green=Port Valve white= Starboard Valve red=Motor Forward (pump pressure) yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract) black on HPU=Ground red on Helm=Control Positive
If I am correct on the wiring then here is how you can test it.
Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction (+), Red, Green=Port trim tab down (+), Red, White=Starboard trim tab down (+), Red, Green, White=both trim tabs down (+), Yellow, Green=Port trim tab up (+), Yellow, White=Starboard trim tab up (+), Yellow, White, Green=both trim tabs up
If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.
This test may also be done right at the pump by using a hot lead. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires. Pay attention to the red wire since it is the one that should make the pump fun forward (tabs down). If you test right at the pump and still no go, then the pump is at fault.
If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.
I hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions.
Tom McGow Bennett Marine
It sounds like a Boat Leveler pump, and you might have a wiring or connection fault, or a faulty switch Look over what I have put together for you, check all the connections at the pump and switch, and try the troubleshooting.
Here is the wiring for Boat Leveler (as we last checked).
green=Port Valve white= Starboard Valve red=Motor Forward (pump pressure) yellow= Motor Reverse (pump retract) black on HPU=Ground red on Helm=Control Positive
If I am correct on the wiring then here is how you can test it.
Remove the wires from the helm control and touch together as follows:
Operation=Reaction (+), Red, Green=Port trim tab down (+), Red, White=Starboard trim tab down (+), Red, Green, White=both trim tabs down (+), Yellow, Green=Port trim tab up (+), Yellow, White=Starboard trim tab up (+), Yellow, White, Green=both trim tabs up
If the trim tabs function correctly for each wire grouping then the switch is at fault. Also note that any loose or missing screws on the back of the switch (whether a wire is connected there or not) can cause the pump to malfunction.
This test may also be done right at the pump by using a hot lead. There is usually a connector to the wire harness within a foot or so of the pump. You want to check this connection for corrosion. You may wish to cut the connector off on the pump side and try the test on bare wires. Pay attention to the red wire since it is the one that should make the pump fun forward (tabs down). If you test right at the pump and still no go, then the pump is at fault.
If you suspect corrosion on the wire connector near the pump, cut it out, test as above and reconnect using butt splices.
I hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions.
Tom McGow Bennett Marine
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Thanks for all the advice guys,
I'll have to try your suggestions in the spring when Miss GG wakes from her long winters nap. I never thought of a corroded connection, but it is quite possible as previous owner said he only had her up on plane a couple times and she hasn't seen water in a couple years (2008). He also said he never used the trim.
I'll have to try your suggestions in the spring when Miss GG wakes from her long winters nap. I never thought of a corroded connection, but it is quite possible as previous owner said he only had her up on plane a couple times and she hasn't seen water in a couple years (2008). He also said he never used the trim.
Landlocked! Yes, but that won't deter me from trying to find my way out to sea.