Page 1 of 1

windshield wiper wiring - mid cabin

Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 9:19 am
by BobCT
long shot.... but does anyone have a picture of the windshield wiper wiring connected to each switch under the helm?

I had all three wipers and washer system working over the summer. The middle wiper stopped working at some point. I did some troubleshooting.

- moved the switch to another wiper and it worked - switch good
- put 12v to the wiper motor - wiper good.
- found 12v wire to the wiper in question and touched it to the other 3 wires which test as ground.

I figured either the wiper or washer would come on with one of them but again it just tripped the breaker. I do have continuity from the wiper to one of the wires near the switch.

My port and starboard wipers work. I have the wiring diagram but that only shows you the circuit # up to the switch, there are three other wires on the back of each. I think in the process of swapping from one to the other when testing, maybe I crossed wires. No matter what combination I try, the breaker/switch at the panel immediately trips when I hit the switch.

By process of elimination, I'm sure I've gotten it right but the breaker keeps tripping. I'm assuming it's not an issue with the breaker itself.

I used my powerprobe (great tool by the way) and on the wiper in question, I have 3 grounds and one 12v. On the wiper next to it, I have two 12v feeds.

thanks

Bob

Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 10:16 am
by S.A.M.
Bob,

Even though my dash style is different, the wiring should be the same. I'll try to get a picture of the wiring this weekend.

wiring

Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 12:56 pm
by BobCT
if it's not too much trouble, that would be great!

I tried to copy the connections on the other switches (which work) but they seem to be different. I know they power the wiper and trigger the washer but otherwise it's a maze. The labled wire helps me identify "which" wiper switch, it's the other ones that are the issue.

Bob

Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 1:26 pm
by rbcool
Bob...... I'm on my boat right now. Take a look at my pics to see if your helm is close to mine. My wiper switches are in the middle row next to the horn. If you want, I can open up the dash, take a pic and post it in a matter of mins.

Ron 8)

thanks...

Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 7:17 pm
by BobCT
but it's a totally different helm setup on the Internationals. I appreciate the offer.

Nice boat BTW, it's in great shape.

Bob

Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 8:04 pm
by RWS
Bob,

FWIW I had a problem on mine with intermittent grounds to the windshireld farme.

Wouldn't caus ethe same problem you are having however.

Something to consider.... the hot wires running through that windshield frame can easily chafe on a hole and create the short you are experiencing.

Pull the rubber covers off and do some tracing.

RWS

will check that out

Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 8:00 am
by BobCT
it does seems like a dead short. Maybe I have had it hooked up correctly. As soon as I hit the switch it immediately trips the breaker.

Maybe I'll run a temp wire up to the motor and see if I can get it working that way.

thanks

Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 8:16 am
by RWS
the short is between the dash switch and the motor.

Could be the motor itself.

Also, if somewhere along the way someone added a screw in the wrong place, it could do the same.

Also as an aside,

I'm thinking about taking my entire windshield system out some time in the future and sending it out for powdercoating. In doing so I would make those holes bigger and do something better to protect that wiring.

Also a good time to add a center window opening device of some sort .

RWS

I think the motor is ok....

Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 10:06 am
by BobCT
I put 12v directly to it and it works. I need a warmer day to do more troubleshooting. I wish the instrument panel was hinged and had a prop rod to hold it up. I hate working on it in the cold.

You can stand it straight up on the back and use a small clamp to the windshield frame to work underneath.

I painted my windshield frame in place last year. That might be an option instead of removing the frame. Here's what I did:

sanded
coat of etch primer
epoxy sealer
silver base coat/mat clearcoat

It would have been perfect but my compressor was too small so some of the clear is inconsistent, only I can tell. It's 100x better, mine was white powder in spots where the anodizing failed.

I did this when the boat was shrink wrapped. If I had it to do over, I would have added some extensions on the sides so I could work on the side windows with more room.

I am going to spray the cabin door frame this year. I think I'm going to use SEM charcoal or trim black which I've used on cars.

I got back my new portlights and hatch panel. Will post something when I get them installed.

Bob

Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 7:10 pm
by RWS
Got pix?

RWS

Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 7:34 pm
by rbcool
Did you put 12v lead from the post on the switch to the motor?

pics

Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 4:00 am
by BobCT
No, it's time for me to setup a photobucket account so I can host them. There's a bunch of pics I need to post for the forum, I'll do that.

rbcool - yes, I ran 12v directly to the motor and it worked fine.