Trojan Boat Forum

just wondering, the new through hull is not yet installed in my boat yet, and I have been running the engine via my garden hoee, attached to the pump, , do you guys think its enough flow if I hook up my garden hose on full attached to the inlet of my raw pump to run the engine,?
or is it not enough volume? I know typically it is enough for outboards,
just want to make sure, before I wipe out another raw pump impeller as I went through two already, but as you read in my previous postings, I believe they were old stock and birttle, I purchase a couple of new ones, so before I run it again, want to make sure

You should be OK. I wouldn't go much above idle for very long though.

why are you trying to run the engines during the freezing weather......winterize them and wait till spring

+1
+1

not freezing here,,,, as we speak, 73 going to 81...............

I've winterized close to 200 boats on the hard. I strap the garden hose into the sea strainer and turn on full blast. If no strainer, I just shove it deep into the intake hose. Of coarse, only run at idle.

Ron

If anyone wants to do this, I have a Moeller flusher (Inboard, Adjustable)
$25 shipped. I only used it three times and then I added the Groco flush adapters on the intakes.

Works great, you can run it as long as you want to about 1,200 rpm's.

Bob

rdunne14@comcast.net

what size garden hose and how long, what is plumbling system pressure and size of pipe feeding the hose bib?

at our club, our dock side hose bibs are pumbed with 3/4" pipe and feed directly off of a 2" feeder line and is regulated to about 55 psi.

The lower the pressure, the smaller diameter hose and the longer the run, the less volume your hose will carry water to the boat.

thanks, Ron, thats what I thought,
I really dont know the size of my feed pipes but after your responces I will just keep it at idle

at idle you don't need much at all so you should be fine

I have quick disconnects and ball valves on my raw water side and flush my engines, genny and the raw awter side of the air conditioner after every use.

Perhaps I'm a bit anal here, however I do believe there is a possible danger to engine damage.

I apply water pressure simultaneously with the firing of the engine.

Never before and never after.

It seems to me that with the engine not running, if the water pressure overcomes the impeller, even just a bit, I can see that water possibly getting into th eexhaust manifold and then into a cylinder, via an open valve.

Does this make sense or am I just a little too anal about the boat?

RWS

My boat has a valve plumbed in that allows me to run her off a hose. For years, I flush after every salt water trip, and run the engine every week for 15 minutes if I don't take her out. Keep the rpms low and watch the exhaust for steam, too much and you are overheating.

RWS wrote:I have quick disconnects and ball valves on my raw water side and flush my engines, genny and the raw awter side of the air conditioner after every use.

Perhaps I'm a bit anal here, however I do believe there is a possible danger to engine damage.

I apply water pressure simultaneously with the firing of the engine.

Never before and never after.

It seems to me that with the engine not running, if the water pressure overcomes the impeller, even just a bit, I can see that water possibly getting into th eexhaust manifold and then into a cylinder, via an open valve.

Does this make sense or am I just a little too anal about the boat?

RWS

IMHO I don't think you can be too anal about your boat. I use a remote starter and only run the engine when I've turned on the water, then shut it down when I turn off the water.
I've said here many times "Peace of mind ======= Priceless!!"


Ron

i was referring to the possible danger of engine damage with water getting into the engine via the exhaust system.

RWS