Shaft Allignment

mytrojan · Post by **mytrojan** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 2:44 pm

I was wondering what is the procedure and how difficult it is to check shaft allignment. The boat is out of the water and may be a good time to check it. Not too technical so the simpler the better. Is it something better for the boatyard to check? They will get the $$ anyway- trying to make it stretch for other projects.. thanks.

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:02 pm

Alignment should be checked in the water... which is the only place the hull sits in it's correct shape.

gumper · Post by **gumper** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 3:56 pm

I saw this in the trojan store. Might be worth it for six dollars. As soon as you purchase it you are given a link to down load it.

http://www.trojanboats.net/zencart/inde ... cts_id=377

Paul · Post by **Paul** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 6:17 pm

While the boat is on the hard, it might be a good time to check if the shafts are centered in their stern tubes and the alignment thru both ends of the struts is correct.

As far as the shaft and trans flange are concerned, you'll need to wait until she's back in the water for a couple days to achieve an accurate alignment. I believe that 1"- 1 1/2" shafts are to have no more than .003" misalignment. To check this, unbolt the flanges but be sure to keep them touching each other. Mark the top of both flanges. With feeler gauges, check the gap between the top of the flanges. Rotate both flanges together to 90Â° and check the gap between the marks again. Then do the same at 180Â° and 270Â° while keeping the flanges touching. If the gap exceeds .003" in any of these positions, then alignment is required.

Hope this helps,

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Mon Feb 14, 2011 9:44 pm

While on the hard, disconnect the coupler from the tranny flange and check running gear alignment as mentioned as well as the prop blades and condition of the strut bearing. I like to do an initial alignment on land first if i'm already out. If you check alingment, make note of readings, then rotate the flange independently of the coupler and read again. If readings change, one or more of the components are bent or warped. I preffer to find this out on the hard rather than finding out after being splashed and paying for another haulout to pull the shaft or coupler. You'll have to wait 'till she gets splashed in the spring to do a final alingment (no more than .003 out). Let her soak up for a few days before doing a final check and bolting it all back together.