Trojan Boat Forum

It's getting warmer and the previous owner winterized my boat last fall and has had the nerve to go to Florida for three weeks. Are there any checklists/articles to get a headstart on getting my f-36 ready to go until this guy gets back?

Thanks,
Brian

1. Change oil and filter
2. Change transmission fluids
3. Check spark plugs/wires
4. Check all thru hull fittings (if on the hard). The while poly fittings will crack over time and may need to be replaced, even if they are above the waterline.
5. Check function of engine compartment blower(s)
6. Check batteries
7. Change oil in generator (if you have one)
8. Flush water system with fresh water.
9. Check your gas. If it smells like varnish, pump it out.
10. Change fuel/water separators.
11. Check electrical connections, fuses, etc. Apply Dielectric grease to connections (including battery terminals)
12. Check packing in stuffing boxes. Find out when the last time it was done.
13. Check/replace zincs.
14. Grease everything with a zerk fitting.
15. Replace impellers if needed.
16. Check all belts/hoses for cracks/wear.
17. Test bilge pumps.

That should keep you busy for a day or 2. Don't turn on the AC, if you have one, until the outside temp. is at least 60 degrees.

I don't know what, if any, special systems are on your boat. But that list is a fine start, and should have you up and running. Try to start it while it is out of the water, so there are no unpleasant suprises.

Great list. Thanks a lot! That will certainly keep me busy. Unfortunately I need to start it in the slip to take it to get the bottom painted. Any special procedures for the initial start? Do I need to change points,distributor, etc?

Make sure the seacocks are open to the engines and all hoses are on and tight , fuel valves open

double band those hoses too.

Basically, all you are doing is flushing the system upon start.

I say start on the hard because you have access to things that you wouldn't in the water, such as an engine hoist or crane, in case of catastrophic failure (i.e. the PO didn't winterize properly).

To start:

Open the seacocks, pump the throttle, and give it hell.

You will see a bunch of smoke initially, from the engine fogging, and probably orange water coming out of the exhaust ports at the waterline. Let her purr for a bit, then make your voyage. It would be a good idea to let someone know your trip plan, and buy some towing insurance just in case (or a buddy with his boat already in the water).

It is kinda hard to screw up a winterization, if it is done correctly, so you stand a good chance of being ok.

Good luck!

If you start on hard you'll need a water supply to raw water intake or you'll run the chance of destroying the raw water pump inside. IMHO

alexander38 wrote:If you start on hard you'll need a water supply to raw water intake or you'll run the chance of destroying the raw water pump inside. IMHO

My fault, I take this as a given. ADD WATER

I would start it in the water for 2 reasons .

1 that way you can make sure its pumping water like it should ( can' tell with a hose ) and it will flow more water in the water then any garden hose will.

2) the boats in the water already . ( read the post )


Heefus , as far as giving it hell when stared are you nuts ? check it out and warm it up first,

prowlersfish wrote:I would start it in the water for 2 resones .

1 that way you can make sure its pumping water like it should ( can' tell with a hose ) and it will flow more water in the water then any gardan hose will.

2) the boats in the water already .


as far as giving it hell when stared are you nuts ? check it out and warm it up first,

give her hell as in turn her over and let her fire

I love this forum. Made this boat much better and easier than other experiences . I appreciate all of the replies, gonna b a great week!

Heefus
Not that you need it but what is the proplem with turning on the A/C below 60 ??

prowlersfish wrote:Heefus
Not that you need it but what the proplem with turning on the A/C below 60 ??

Copied from a HVAC site for clarity:

A/C (not heat pumps) are not set up to run in cold temps.

1. They do not have wide ranging metering devices. They also do not have an accumulator to catch liquid refrigerant before it makes it to the compressor (like a HP does).
2. There is no load indoors to use up the liquid refrigerant. It is also cold outside so low head pressure causes the system to starve.
3. They don't have an immersion heater in the compressor.The refrigerant migrates into the oil when cold outdoors a not used for a while. At startup the refrigerant (and the oil with it) is pumped out of the compressor. Oil may damage the compressor.

For a compressor to be efficient, there must be little clearance between the compressor piston and the head. Any liquid getting in there will break a valve or crankshaft.

If you do run it in the cold, It wont run right for you to tell anything but that it runs.

If your marine unit is a heat pump, the above does not apply.

Clear as mud?

on many marine A/C the same compeser is use if it s a a/c or hear pump . I run mine even in the winter to keep it in top shape . better to run it then to let it set

where did you come up witth 60 deg. number ? In subzero maybe , 60 ? I don't agree

come up with some marine A/C info that backs you up , you can't.

prowlersfish wrote:clear as bull as mud . on a marine A/C the same compeser is use if it s a a/c or hear pump . I run mine even in the winter to keep it in top shape . better to run it then to let it set

where did you come up witth 60 deg. number ? In subzero maybe , 60 ? I call BS

come up with some marine A/C info that backs you up , you can't.

I find it interesting that you call BS on a written report form a certified HVAC guy. Do you believe that marine units are so unique as to be excused from the operational parameters of a standard unit? Or are you calling BS to simply call BS? How, exactly, do marine units differ from a household unit, or an RV unit for that matter?

I have always heard, from industry experts, that you should not operate AC below 60 deg. F. Could it be a wives tale to the uninitiated? Sure. Do I follow the advice, given by experts, rather than risk damaging a unit? Absolutely. I err on the side of caution.

Edit: http://www.marinaire.com/v/marinaire/Do ... Manual.pdf Page 6, Operational limits:

"Cooling operation: Incoming Water temperature (sea, river, lake water temp.) 60 to 95 deg. F

Caution: Operating your AC and heat pump out of above mentioned ranges might cause permanent damage to the compressor, heat exchangers, pump, and other plumbing components."

I will still have a beer with you at Kinsale, but I am not going to let you turn on your AC below 60 deg.

I have to agree with Prowler on the BS call. To many things prove your theory WRONG! A/C is A/C!! No matter what enviroment its in! Look at the automotive industry for example, when you turn the defrosters on the a/c kicks on automatically! It reduces the moisture in the air (even with heat turned all the way up) also recirculates oil thru system to save on seals in compressor. So they don't start leaking from non use. As far as the 60 degree fact you would have a tough time getting your ice cream at the super market if those refridgerated trailers and straight trucks couldn't run those reefer units below 60 degrees!!!! JMHO (and a little common sense if you think about it)