Trojan Boat Forum

I'm looking to replace the original 120v hotwater tank and I'm looking for some options. I do not currently have a heat exchanger. I looked at the tankless option, but anything that is not 240v does not produce enough heated water for a shower. I'm trying to avoid spending $700.00 for another Raritan, but I am limited with space.

My factory Raritan was still going strong - but a bit rusty when I did the refit in 2005 - That's a 22+ year PLUS who really knows how much longer it would have gone lifespan.

The factory unit didn't have the heat exchanger, we added it with the replacement unit and I'll tell you it is really a nice feature!

If this new tank goes another 22+ years it will end up costing me about $27 a year.

I also looked at the alternatives whan I replaced mine, the square tank units and the tankless.

I really don't think you can go wrong with the Raritan, plus the new one has a plastic, rather than a sheet metal covering that won't rust.


By the way, it's a good idea to install a ball valve in the pressure line going to the tank just in case you ever develop a leak on th ehot water side you won't lose all of your water or be forced to shut down the entiret freshwater system.


RWS

I put in a Kuuma unit 3 year doing fine only thing I don;t like is a none adjustable thermostat . I don't see them listed at west marine any more but the look like these Seawards I use a 11 gal.
http://www.westmarine.com/1/3/water-heater-marine


Defender has it

http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?pa ... &id=319680

You sure you need a new unit?

You might get away with a heater element swapout.

I had my marina install an 11 gal Atwood HWH. My cost was $400 and another $200 for installation (they had to remove the port exhaust manifold, the holding tank and the old water heater, replumb and new wiring). Option was to do it myself, but I'm too fat and too old to make those kind of contortionist moves in the F26 engine compartment. That was 3 years ago and it works really well. It's designed to be plumbed for heat exchanger or not, so you have both options. The 11 gal size is fine for us. It's square if that's an issue. Also agree you may want to put a multimeter on the heating element to see if it's shot. That may be the quickest and cheapest fix. You can get Atwoods cheaper at RV places, but shop Beacon and some other places for prices. Has an adjustable thermostat also.

Why would anyone want to heat hot water?

So far, my water heater is working fine...

Bwaaaaahhhhhhaaaaaaahhaaaaaahaaaaaaa! Good one!

The element is not working, so an easy quick fix is a new element. However, I am planning on replacing all the 20 year old freshwater hoses with PEX and a manifold system, so I wanted to change out the hotwater heater (or cold water tank that heats water) at the same time. The tank has not been used in years and the water that comes out of it is rusty and full of debris. Thought I would take care of it before it started having bigger issues. The current heater is a Raritan 12 gallon without a heat exchanger. The heat exchanger would be great, but the tank is in my main salon, and to run coolant lines may be a job that is bigger than the payoff.

Sounds like a plan. Check out the Atwoods along with the Raritans. You can always add the exchanger lines later. The tankless ones sound great but the heat rise is very low for the amount of power. Have a friend who installed one in his houseboat and the water gets "sorta" warm, but nothing compared to a REAL tank in which cold water magically turns to hot.....

The Kumma has a heat exchanger but I did not chose to hook mine up