water in oil

walter sullivan · Post by **walter sullivan** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:12 pm

Bought used 318 at salvage yard. Got it in and running, looks like water was in or got into the oil. Oil is milky, any ideas on where to start?

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 8:14 pm

marine or auto ? look at the manafolds/ risers then pull the heads and start looking some more

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sat Sep 10, 2011 9:25 pm

Welcome aboard. How much water we talking about? Is this fresh water or raw water cooled? I assume you started out with fresh oil. What level is showing on the dip stick?

k9th · Post by **k9th** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 12:30 am

Welcome aboard.

myakka · Post by **myakka** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 7:13 am

If that is and auto 318, and you are running it RWC, you may want to marinize it a bit more while you are at it. You'll need to change all the freeze plugs to brass and change the head gaskets to "marine". Just to be sure, you may want to get the S/N off the block and look up the cam spec's to see if there is too much overlap between intake and exhaust.

myakka · Post by **myakka** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 12:04 pm

By the way, Nice town you are living in. I grew up there.
Mike

walter sullivan · Post by **walter sullivan** » Wed Sep 14, 2011 8:51 pm

Thank you all for getting back to me. I changed the oil and ran it for 20 min. The oil looks much better this time. It is a marine motor. Now i am moving on to my next problem. It sucks up water into the motor fast then slow. It can go through 5 gal. of water in 25 sec. or some times it looks like it is not sucking at all. It has one of the old double pumps.
Again, thank you all.

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Thu Sep 15, 2011 7:26 am

You installed the motor in your boat without changing the oil the 1st time? Did you change the filter too?

You say the oil "looks better" now after 20 mins? After 20 mins, the oil should still look like new or you've got problems.

Sucking up water fast, then slow? Since it appears you're doing a sea-water cooled setup (or is it jacket water cooled with the silly "double pump" that pumps fresh water on one side and seawater on the other side of a seal inside?), the pumps need to fill all of the air spaces in the hoses, block, etc. at 1st. Then there will be little (if any flow) until the thermostats open and water begins to flow through.

walter sullivan · Post by **walter sullivan** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 9:11 pm

I changed the oil and the filter, oil looks still new after 20 min. The double pump pumps raw water to the E manifolds on one side and the motor on the other side. I imagine I will rebuild the pump over the too long New England winter. Thanks again, Walter Sullivan

rossjo · Post by **rossjo** » Thu Sep 22, 2011 10:08 pm

Thatpump can be tricky per my buddy Larry here in Charleston who has an F36 with those pumps ... Water leaks across the seasl from one side to the other apparently.

Maybe he'll chime in here with some insight ....

PlanSea PlanSea ... this is the Viva Mahi ... over

plansea · Post by **plansea** » Fri Sep 23, 2011 10:14 am

Hey Ross here I am trying to get from "boat Mechanic" to Boat Captian and you're not helping!

Walter you probably have a Sherwood D 50 water pump. As you said one side pumps raw water and the other side pumps cooling water. IMO a poor system at best. The raw water side has a slightly larger impeller ands therefore as they start to wear, the larger side tends to 'suck' water from the other. Of course this allows your cooling water to be expelled out the exhaust, resulting in engine overheat. The 318 chrysler has a front mounted water pump available that would allow a somewhat easy conversion. I have big block Chryslers that makes the conversion a bit tricky, but something I will definately change in the near future.
Good luck with your new project. The minute you start up an begin to cruise all work and frustrations quickly disappear. Larry

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sat Sep 24, 2011 10:07 am

OK, this is a new one for me. I've never seen a dual pocket pump being used to circulate the fresh water (coolant) side of the system but up here is mostly raw water cooling for that vintage. In every configuration I've seen, the pump moved raw water only and coolant circulation was always handled by the engine circ pump. Does anyone know if this is a typical set up that I simply have not come across or is this a do-it-yourself set up?

If the set up is typical, I still don't see how a problem at the pump would result in mixing water with the oil. Where did the water come from? Either way, if it came from the cooling system, there is a problem!

walter sullivan · Post by **walter sullivan** » Sun Sep 25, 2011 8:21 pm

Hi Guys, Maybe I didn't explain it right. The two pocket pump receives raw water. It starts out with one hose, through the strainer, continues one hose to a spliter. One side of the pump pumps to the exhaust manifolds, the other side to the engine. I still have many of the parts from my old 318 including the auto style waterpump. This project is entering its 4th year. I also have a 1984 chris craft with a 5.7 that I use all the time, it spent most of its life on lakes. I sometimes wish I pulled that motor instead of paying a grand for this salvage motor. But I am to cheap to admit defeat so I will continue on. Thanks again to all of you. Walter Sullivan

Big D · Post by **Big D** » Sun Sep 25, 2011 10:43 pm

Now that makes more sence!

So no more water in the oil? How did water get in the oil before?

So the main issue now is not enough raw water flow?