Trojan Boat Forum

Well I know I dont have pics up yet but figure while the coffees brewing I can update , Ive been working on the inside of the cabin"79f26" and as some may know have trimmed out the windows with new 1/2 sanded plywood and adhered formica as the finish . this had some hicups but ended up looking clean and fitting tight. now I removed the galley top last night and started to rebuild this piece. I opted out of the teak rail from the original and already caught flack from friends over this move but instead decided to just band the edge with formica as well. I got the measurements from the old top and then 3-4 x's up/down the ladder I got my finish numbers to transfer to the new plywood. does anyone know why the top didnt go back to the hull ? this is the area where I see most of you put your microwaves. I had what looked like afactory piece resting atop the original counterop and went back to the hull, anyway Ive extended the top to cover this area and keep it all one level. just waiting for the hybond to dry and I'm headed down to drop the formica on it and trim. In the mean time if anyone is interested in the old top, or any inside cabin original plywood pieces I'm done with mine and have no need for them, there in good shape just didnt want to sand and refinish them , I opted to replace the wood and use 2-3 coats of porch and floor paint to encapsulate the pieces . will eventually get the pic show up , I have been taking them ,,,honest and thanks for all the help from those who have responded to questions I had, today is a good day on the build "unless I misdrop the formica and it STICKS there "

I believe that the counter top does not join the hull in this area to allow a little ventilation to the coils on the back of the refrigerator installed directly below.

well that makes sense . My boat didnt come with a fridge, actually someone stripped pretty good of anything with value,including the damn toilet... The wife and I installed the top and now have our measurements to look around for a 110 model. can one of those small units run of a 800 inverter? hoping I can get that and the small micro to run of the inverter when I'm at anchor for the day

I bet a microwave would need a lot of power. BTW, don't use your typical power numbers from your microwave. You know how an oven might be rated at 700 watts? That's cooking power, the actual watts consumed number is probably in the user manual.

thanks for the micro input. Well I got the countertop installed on the boat turned out good. I did a radius when it came down by the sink end of the top and even had the foresight to not make to tight a turn but still struggled when bending the banding formica . heated that section up with the Mrs. hairdryer and it went in ok. As for the galley table we had planned on building a new one but after cleaning up the original one last night I think were going to reuse this one. I used the teak cleaner on it last night and then the brightener and then two coats of oil and it looks pretty good , My wife liked the look of it when the oil was first applied"that wet glossy look" can you poly overtop of the teak oil? any tricks to achieve this glossy look ? thanks again

You will have to take and re-clean the teak to remove ALL oil. I would use Cetol Gloss if thats what you want. After you clean the teak all over again sand it smooth. When your ready to apply the cetol wipe it down with thinner real good to help absorb the last of the oil. Apply the cetol and sand with 220grit paper or finer inbetween coats. Using as a table I personally would apply at least 5 coats. Lots of protection and a deeper shine! Don't forget the pic's!

Just a note on the Cetol. Cetol gloss is ment to go on top of Cetol as a sacrificial coating so you will need to do a couple of cetol base coats first. Also, I suggest using acetone vs thinner to wipe down the teak prior to coat number one. This will remove teak oil in the surface fibres for better adhesion of the coating. jimbo36

jimbo36 wrote:Just a note on the Cetol. Cetol gloss is ment to go on top of Cetol as a sacrificial coating so you will need to do a couple of cetol base coats first. Also, I suggest using acetone vs thinner to wipe down the teak prior to coat number one. This will remove teak oil in the surface fibres for better adhesion of the coating. jimbo36

Thanks jimbo36! I was drawing a blank trying to think of acetone last night! I knew some one would come along and correct my thinner mistake! At my age the memory is the SECOND thing to go!