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How much bottom paint?

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 5:29 pm
by Skargo
How much ablative bottom paint would I need for my F30?

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 5:54 pm
by ready123

Nice Site

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 6:20 pm
by Islanddr08
Nice prices, Surely beat WMarine

Any Ideas on the size or thickness of zincs for replacing all on an F32 after Bottom paint.

Was planing to use bottom paint stripper. Any ideas or recommendations?

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 6:35 pm
by gettaway
stripper for bottom paint: :shock:

hmmm.... gallons and gallons and a hell of a mess

zincs:

divers dream on the transom, 1-1/4 (if thats is your shaft size) on the prop shafts. my trim tabs and rudders are bonded to to the bonding system -to the divers dream

Divers Dream

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 6:46 pm
by Islanddr08
How does this connect everything. I know that sounds numb skulled, but I understand it fits onto the stearn, but do I run wires from the various bits?

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 6:58 pm
by Skargo
Looks like a gallon a coat for me. Why is the paint so pricey?

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 7:01 pm
by gettaway
islander, I am not sure I understand your question? how does what connect everything?
bits?

if referring to the bonding system,

there is a central bonding wire, usually a fairly large gauge bare copper wire that runs the length of one or both stringers. The underwater metal components , such as through hulls , sea cocks, stuffing box, rudders trim tabs, struts etc and engine are connected- sometimes by crimp, sometimes by solder, to the bonding wire. the central bonding wire runs to the transom of the boat and is then connected to one or both zinc mounting bolts.

If you have an F32, your bonding wire should be on the port stringer

Bonding wire.

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 7:47 pm
by Islanddr08
I did see this when I was grinding down the fiberglass when installing the back wall. I'm sure it will be more apparent when I take the running gear down. I'm sure I'll find it.

Anysuggestion on inspecting and ensuring the trim tabs are operational. I haven't checked them yet, but there is an automatic boat leveler onboard. Not familiar with these or how they work and took it down when doing the back wall and cockpit work. Is there any specific way this should be installed and what I should check for when reinstalling them. Never had a boat with Trim tabs before so no previous experience. Only on an outboard. Guess I have more homework. :D :D

Re: Nice Site

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 8:36 pm
by captainmaniac
Islanddr08 wrote:Nice prices, Surely beat WMarine

Any Ideas on the size or thickness of zincs for replacing all on an F32 after Bottom paint.

Was planing to use bottom paint stripper. Any ideas or recommendations?
I tried using a product called Peel Away on mine a couple of years back. Wrote about it in this old thread http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... =peel+away .

I ended up scraping and sanding by hand. Total time invested in the bottom was about 100 hours.

Bottom Blasting

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2011 9:36 pm
by Islanddr08
Looked through that thread and it looks nice. I found a device called a Blast out of a Bucket Abrasive gun http://www.eastwood.com/review/product/list/id/5033/ . It may be to small. I'm not sure if it will do the job, but I may try it. Not sure what abrasive to use and will check with the Marina Tommorow to find out if allowed and what they recommend. If anything I will have it to clean other stuff as well.

Thanks for the info Don, it's helping me find ways of improving the job and other info on other areas I need to work. Good motivation, but I guess like all of us if we had endless pockets the work and improvements would be endless. Thx again.

tabs

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 8:40 am
by BobCT
On the trim tabs, just try them up and down and see if they move the full range. Two things to keep in mind....

1) The UP/DOWN is opposite of what the trim tabs does. UP means bow up but the tabs will actually move down.

2) Same with the LEFT and RIGHT switches. That'll move the opposite tab.

I thought mine were all screwed up the first time I tested them.


Bob

Re: tabs

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:05 am
by Skargo
BobCT wrote:On the trim tabs, just try them up and down and see if they move the full range. Two things to keep in mind....

1) The UP/DOWN is opposite of what the trim tabs does. UP means bow up but the tabs will actually move down.

2) Same with the LEFT and RIGHT switches. That'll move the opposite tab.

I thought mine were all screwed up the first time I tested them.


Bob
I have them on another boat and understand how they work. A friend just bought a boat and his are FUBAR! Someone thought they knew better and they are all screwed up.