Tri cabin owners...questions on interior...

MadBen · Post by **MadBen** » Sun Feb 05, 2012 2:01 pm

In contemplating the purchase of a late model 36 tri cabin model, I have come up with a few of those questions that you think of as you try to go to sleep. I initially want to replace the interior of a tri as follows...
I want to replace the carpet, fridge, master head sole, the master mattress, the salon sofa, and possibly the headliner.
Can the above items go thru the existing door and replacements come in? The sofa would be a modular "L" shape that I think would be no problem. The fridge...sans doors, i think would also be possible.
I realize the removeable hatch in the salon would make these questions a no brainer but the headliner is in good shape and I would not want to have to replace it if at all possible.
Also, I want a full size fridge, not a smaller marine unit.
Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.
Thanks, Mike

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:26 pm

The hatch built in to the roof made for engine removal , that would be a way to remove the fridge and the sofa

k9th · Post by **k9th** » Sun Feb 05, 2012 3:55 pm

I replaced about the same identical list two years ago and also replaced the fuel tanks. We took the access hatch above the salon off to remove and replace all of the items. It was an easy removal and everything went in and out easily.

The headliner in ours was easily removed and re-installed with no problems.

JGedridge · Post by **JGedridge** » Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:37 pm

That hatch in the middle is a life saver! The fridge, couch and HOT WATER TANK has to go through it to say the least.

Joe

rbcool · Post by **rbcool** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:02 am

The way my hatch is caulked in I'm sure it will be a PIA to re-do properly but it's the ONLY way I'll have to replace the fridge. And I'll have to rent a special staple gun to re-attach the headliner.

Ron

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:13 am

rbcool wrote:The way my hatch is caulked in I'm sure it will be a PIA to re-do properly but it's the ONLY way I'll have to replace the fridge. And I'll have to rent a special staple gun to re-attach the headliner.

Ron

i'm not looking forward to redoing mine either ron. when they did the repower in 1996, they did not properly set the hatch on the ledge and when they put the screws in from below, they did not drill a larger pilot hole for the screw head. the result is a hatch that is caulked, but, because it's raised just so towards the helm windows, it's putting stress on the gelcoat for the hatch at the attach points. every time i wash the boat and step near that area, i hear a 'creak' that i know should not be there. my mechanic said that once i lower the headliner in that area and dig out the caulk the entire hatch can be lowered and rebedded in under 3 hrs. but, while i have it off, i might try to swap out the old GE fridge for a smaller more energy efficient one, but the old GE is still plugging away and keeps things wicked frozen in the freezer and the fridge stays cold too.
what i'd really like to do if i had the $$ is reconfigure the galley by installing a drawer type fridge/freezer in that area and extend the counter for more work space. that remodel i think would look sweet.
aaron

rbcool · Post by **rbcool** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:44 am

mine looks properly sealed bigtime on the outside, 1" wide x ?" deep 4200 caulk. Either it will pull out in long strips or have to be dug out completely

my one fridge thats in galley has a hard time keeping up in the summer and is original. The bar fridge/icemaker works like a dream.
Luckily my new boat friend is an HVAC dude and told me he'll look at it in May.... he's thinking he can rebuild in place. Everything else on the boat is new in last few years but with my luck I'll have to yank the hatch for the fridge

ron

rcamaine · Post by **rcamaine** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:41 am

I was looking at having to replace my fridge, but was dreading that hatch removal. My defrost timer was shot, which meant that my freezer would not defrost in the summer if left running for a week.

Could not get a replacement timer on that old unit, but came up with a timer on Amazon that had 3 on/off cylces. Now I run my fridge off that unit, let it control the defrost, and saved my the hassel.

Wife still wants to replace the sofa but for now talked her out of it. Not sure for how long though - then that hatch will have to be opened.

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 11:15 am

okay, since i am an airline employee and fly standby if there is a seat available, let's just have a tri cabin removal party in various parts of the country. hell, i think we could make a good team. as for the bedding, my mechanic said that it needs to be sliced on either side, very carefully using a curved carpet cutting style knife. he's done two hatch removals before and if it is cut out around the edges correctly, then nine times out of 10 it pulls out in several long strips. after that is removed, the edges need to be cleaned with acitone then it can be put back down. he suggested that i run a narrow thin piece of closed cell weather strip on the 'shelf' that the hatch lays on. then, with someone sitting on the hatch (this is where the PO screwed up big time), the hatch is then screwed in place from below using large pilot holes drilled in the shelf. a bead of 4200 is then run around the hatch, pushing out all the air so that bubbles do not form. either way, i'm not thrilled at having to do that. tim had it a little easier than us later model guys. his hatch is actually secured from down below to hatch latches mounted to the frame and hatch.
aaron

risctaker · Post by **risctaker** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:24 pm

If you decide to take the headliner down, glue some rigid foam boards (the non-hydroscopic type) up against the cabin roof underside before replacing the headliner. That was done to my tri-cabin and I can tell you it really helps with the heat / AC loads and overall comfort throughout the boat.

rbcool · Post by **rbcool** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 12:49 pm

All Excellent advice guys.....thanks!!

Ron

MadBen · Post by **MadBen** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 3:42 pm

risctaker wrote:If you decide to take the headliner down, glue some rigid foam boards (the non-hydroscopic type) up against the cabin roof underside before replacing the headliner. That was done to my tri-cabin and I can tell you it really helps with the heat / AC loads and overall comfort throughout the boat.

Excellent idea!!

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Mon Feb 06, 2012 7:58 pm

risctaker wrote:If you decide to take the headliner down, glue some rigid foam boards (the non-hydroscopic type) up against the cabin roof underside before replacing the headliner. That was done to my tri-cabin and I can tell you it really helps with the heat / AC loads and overall comfort throughout the boat.

i hate to sound like a complete idiot, but, what is non-hydroscopic foam,and where does one obtain this. all the headliner would not be dropped. just from the midpoint of the boat (where the access panel is for the windshield attach bolts are) to just about 4' forward.
aaron