Trojan Boat Forum

Whats a good way to remove the teak oil from interior wood before varnishing?

Ron

acetone will take it out of the wood...been there done that..

rbcool wrote:Whats a good way to remove the teak oil from interior wood before varnishing?

Ugh Varnishing interior teak on a classic Trojan It will look like a Carver

ready123 wrote:

rbcool wrote:Whats a good way to remove the teak oil from interior wood before varnishing?

Ugh Varnishing interior teak on a classic Trojan It will look like a Carver

HEY ! I'll have you know that not one piece of the teak has any varnish on it. It's all oil and the wife cleans and oils it every spring.... so there..

That will suit me fine!!

Ron

ready123 wrote:

rbcool wrote:Whats a good way to remove the teak oil from interior wood before varnishing?

Ugh Varnishing interior teak on a classic Trojan It will look like a Carver

HEY ! I'll have you know that not one piece of my interior teak has any varnish on it. It's all oil and the wife cleans and oils it every spring.... so there..

and we all know the new boats have that glass look on the wood work..every one I've looked at and it looks like s*** after a couple of yrs.

I wouldn't do it Ron...

The teak around the galley areas, especialy the sink, takes a hellova beating!!

Ron

No need to say it twice

It was really the new Carver's I was talking about.....

The new Carvers have Cherry in them for the past few yrs. once they passed the white wash look of the mid 90's (thank god) that stuff is nasty. And be honest Ready what would a new Trojan have in it ? High Gloss , they would have to keep up with the style.

Ron DON'T DO IT...it'll be more work every yr.

Have the very question. This spring I've sanded and stripped the back deck and removed all exterior teak and sanded/cleaned with cleaner and lightener. Now i'm looking at all this wood and a gallon of cetol and thinking i'm crazy and should just oil it.

What are your thoughts? How much work does it take durring the season to keep it looking good if I oil it? Will I be oiling every weekend? Do i need to continue to clean/bleach it all year to keep it nice an golden?

With 5 coats of cetol i'll be good for at least 2-3 years, but then the work to do it again is a LOT.

Interior I just oil it all and it continues to look good inside.

Aaron - with teak oil, in Chicago area, you might get lucky and get away with only once a year (twice if you are persnickety), but you will be dealing with cleaning / bleaching / re-oiling at least once a year. The Teak outside will be coated / washed down with the rain, bird crap, spider poop, whatever is on your shoes, and whatever other crap washes out of the sky on rainy days. You can't just re-oil like you can do inside.

With Cetol you can get many years out of it given a good base coat. But the plus with Cetol is that you don't really have to strip it all down and start over every time you redo it. My pulpit lasted about 3-4 years before it needed a bit of a sanding and 2 more coats Cetol Gloss. My swim platform and flybridge steps are up to about 5 years now. Last year I gave a couple of spots that were starting to wear through on the platform a couple of maintenance coats (just in those areas), then the platform as a whole 1 coat. No sanding, no stripping, no special prep other than washing, no back to square one.

Cetol is MUCH more forgiving. Its built in tint helps even out things that are not the same colour to start with, so patching a spot and throwing a couple coats over top pretty much make it disappear.

For my money, Cetol is WAY less hassle than oil.

Cetol is some good stuff. But make sure the base is right, the PO of my boat didn't use the plan/satin as a base. It's a must then you can fix it as Capt. as said ..

Thanks guys, all very good thoughts!
As I stated earlier.... I'm only looking at redoing around the galey area, 3" accent strips. My varnish job will look just like the oiled teak because that's how good I am

Ron