Trojan Boat Forum

is this similiar to the f26 trojans ?

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/stuffing_box

looks like a pretty detailed site, is it really that easy ?

Yep. It's that easy, provided your stuffing box and shaft are on your work bench in the garage.

But yes, what the web site shows is pretty much what I did. I didn't use a flax inserter though.

Oh, I have a v-drive which makes it a lot more difficult and dirty. It helps to be double jointed or have an extra elbow in your arm to bend it the way you need to bend it. I don't think I'll ever get another boat with a V-drive again, just due to access issues.

Interesting about the warning of using the GFO Graphite packing. That's what I use but I have a stainless steel shaft. No problems yet in 5 years of using the stuff.

Yes, it is easy, but like Ken says it's a bit harder when you are standing on your head or trying to twist and turn around other stuff in the engine compartment. And if you do it while in the water, it can be a little more nerve wracking when the water starts flowing in. But yes, the basic process is that easy.

It's a good article, been around for a while, great for DIYers but there are a few steps missing that make the job a lot easier such as having everything cut ahead of time before starting if you're doing it in the water! What they also fail to mention that is helpful in preventing you from tearing your hair out, is that some manufacturers install reverse threaded units to account for shaft rotation. Keep this in mind if she won't loosen off; look at the threads. Other than that, pretty simple process, and you'll pick up some tips of your own for your particular app.

gonna take a chance and go with the drip-less system

Jeff, if you're going to use your current shaft, choose the type of drip-less wisely. There are two different types of seals used. The type you choose is critical based on the condition of your shaft. Lip seal for shaft surface in great condition, and face seal for shaft surface in poor condition.

Big D wrote:Jeff, if you're going to use your current shaft, choose the type of drip-less wisely. There are two different types of seals used. The type you choose is critical based on the condition of your shaft. Lip seal for shaft surface in great condition, and face seal for shaft surface in poor condition.

ok Thanks! Shaft is being sent to a machine shop. I will ask their opinion about this. Thanks for the tip! D!

Look at it this way; the lip seal is like having 2 or 3 "O" rings hugging the shaft that prevent water from passing through. If the surface of the shaft is in poor shape, water will seap through between the shaft and rubber rings because of a poor mating surface. The face seal type doesn't depend on a good shaft surface since the seal is not mated/made against the shaft itself.

a pitted shaft vrs a clean shaft, I get it. but are you saying dripless system is dangerous? I havent looked up the cost of a new shaft, im sure its way out of budget.

Nope not dangerous, used all the time now.

cool , think i read your doesnt, for does LOL I know they arnt cheap, but the read up is good and your tip is good, thanks!

packing change out isn't hard...it's a P.I.T.A....it you can find flax packing I'd go to it you can get it to go all most drip-less...As far as drip-less shaft seals go they're great...til they start leaking get out of alignment ,cool water is lost and burn up and cut the shaft....I'll stick to old school tech...if packing starts to leak tighten it up and go...goes bad shut the engine down tighten down and run on one til you can change pier side...drip-less you haul the boat.....I.M.P.O.

ok