Trojan Boat Forum

How many of you still use the cabin electric doors? The previous owner told me they didn't work very well so I never tried them out. The other day I flipped the breakers and pushed the button. The doors would close half way and then get stuck. I am taking the cover off the workings this weekend. Does anyone have a suggestion on what to look for? I think it would be great to have the doors work when i'm showing off my boat.

mine still work great, although one is ready for a new wheel.

here's the trick

1. make sure the bottom and top tracks are ABSOLUTELY CLEAN

2. make sure the wheels that go onto the tracks are ABSOLUTELY CLEAN

3. replace the pressure roller as needed probably once every 10 years or so

4. adjust the motor bracket for optimum pressure.

5. Beam me up Scotty !

I'll send Bob a question regatrding price and availability of the rollers and will post here.

RWS

I received a nice e-mail fro Bob Cushman today with the answers on the electric door items.

I also ordered a new rubber friction tire

these are not showing on-line but are easily ordered by phone.

Here's the listing:

1.) Rubber friction tire $34.85 EACH

2.) Door guide rollers $19.98 EACH

3.) HINGE THAT HOLDS ROLLER $ 25.56 EACH

Again, keep the tracks and rollers clean, really clean and you'll have that Star Trek Effect back again.

And if all else fails, just order a new Di-Lythium Crystal.

RWS OUT

Thanks, I will start on it this weekend.

RWS wrote:mine still work great, although one is ready for a new wheel.

here's the trick

1. make sure the bottom and top tracks are ABSOLUTELY CLEAN

2. make sure the wheels that go onto the tracks are ABSOLUTELY CLEAN

3. replace the pressure roller as needed probably once every 10 years or so

4. adjust the motor bracket for optimum pressure.

5. Beam me up Scotty !

I'll send Bob a question regatrding price and availability of the rollers and will post here.

RWS

I ordered the friction tires today. How does the friction tire attach to the moter shaft?

pull the old one off

press the new one on.

It will look too small, but will fit nicely

you may have to "adjust" the amount of friction between the wheel and the top of the door.

I installed a few washers taped together as a crude shim.

The door works FLAWLESSY.

These doors have been 100% over the 10 + years I have owned this boat.

A nice crpwd pleaser and functional as well.

I took some pictures with detail and a short video.

If you need a bit of help or assistence I can upload them or just plain e-mail them to you.

RWS

I would like to see the video. My email address is on my profile.

Thanks

O.K. let's see if this works.

there are two covers involved, one on the outside that covers the motor and the other covers the mechanism, microswitches, top rollers & track.

The system is simple.

An electric window lift motor with a rubber friction roller opens and closes the door.

a microswitch at each end shuts off the motor in the appropriate direction only.

The door slider on two horizontal tracks, top and bottom.

There are two rollers on each track.

These are special rollers and they do not have a hex head fastener on th einside. If yours do, they are the WRONG rollers and they will rub on the track.

clean rollers and clean track make a tremendous difference.

Also make sure there are no burrs or nicks on th etrack. These can be easily sanded out with emery cloth if necessary.

The motor roller spins on the wide flat surface on th etop of the door.

Too tight, it binds, too loose, it slips.

a few large washers in a shim pack will help you make the adjustment easier. Mine are taped together with the blue painters tape and attached to a boss on th ebottom of the motor.

I also reccomend using nylon lock nuts.

A few years ago I used a Rustoleum "Plastic" paint and did all th eyellowing plastic in the cabin. Makes a big difference.

Finally, thjis is a really cool system and it works well if properly maintained.

pix and a video follow.

RWS



















video?

Thanks for the pictures. On the third picture you sent, my moter bracket is adjusted half way down on the long screw. does this provide the tension adjustment?

jhalb wrote:Thanks for the pictures. On the third picture you sent, my moter bracket is adjusted half way down on the long screw. does this provide the tension adjustment?

to a degree, yes, and that shim pack does as well.

Perhaps I used the shim pack to create additional friction to compensate for the worn out or dried out friction tire?

I don't have any idea how many Meter boats still have functioning doors, but keeping them up it is not a maintenance problem at all.

Those doors, the curves, the teak swim platrorm, bow spirit and gunnel top, that factory (no offense Mark) instrument pod....

all of these items truly add to the CHARACTER of this vessel.

add in the characteristics of the Shoell Delta Conic hull and her beam, the vacuum liner system, the A/C ducts in the ceiling the hollow stringers, and her modular construction concept.....

these boats are so very truly unique

and

with thier 30 year old splash now largely forgotten, flying far under the radar of awareness.

I feel VERY DAMNED LUCKY to have ended up with this 10 meter as opposed to other brand/model choices I had at the time.

Electric doors? No fad or glits, Purely functional.

So, yes the doors simple, are easily maintained and add tremendously to the overall concept.

Keeping them operational is part of that coolness.

RWS

Installed the tires today and the doors work great. Thanks for the heads up on the tires looking small. I might have returned them. The shim also helped out.

sweet, aint it?

RWS

MAN! I'm jealous! Us 10 meter mid cabin guys have to manually open our doors! (LOL!)
Nice work on the fix!