Trojan Boat Forum

One of the two large deck hatches has developed a small leak on my 10 Meter.

I have never re-bedded or done anything to them them in the 11 years I have owned this boat.

As she is now 30 years old, it's probably time. Eventually they will be replaced as cosmetically they don't look great and the acrylic is showing it's age, but for now I really need some giudance as I know nothing about these hatches.

Thanks,

RWS

I forget the hatch layout on the Express...

are you referring to the hinged hatch or the fixed portlights? I assume since you said "re-bed" you mean the fixed lights. You might want to consider replacing them if you're going to all the trouble. When I bought my boat, I just re-bed them and then wound up replacing them two years later so it was a total waste of time.

It takes longer than you think by the time you get them all cleaned up. Anyway, it's not really complicated. Mine had screws, I think most do not. Once you slice around the bead you should be able to pry up and get it started. Having someone push from the inside will also help.

Once they're out, it's simply a matter of cleaning up everything and reinstalling. You need some sort of spacers (nylon washers) between the "glass" and the frame so the bedding isn't completely squeezed out. If no screws, you'll need to weight it down for a day.

That leaves you with the gap around the edge. I taped it all off and filled it with the same stuff I used on install (DOW 395?). It'a amazingly strong and suitable for plastics. They actually use it on building to install glass with no fasteners. Unfortunately, like every other caulk/adhesive I've used, it attracts dirt. I clean it up with Acetone every couple of weeks. On my list is getting a SS or aluminum frame made which will cover the perimeter and eliminate this problem.

Mark, you've fabricated a lot of stuff? Would you be interested in making these? I'm going to pay someone, I'd be just as happy if it was you. I'm sure all the Int'l guys with the trapezoidal portlights would be interested.


Edit - just looked an Express picture, I don't think you guys have the fixed portlights. On the opening hatches, there's really nothing to re-bed other than the hinge screws. On mine, there's a rubber gasket which you can easily get at WM. Mine was original and easily fixed the leaks I had. If that gasket is good, I don't think there's any other place it can leak.


Bob

Hi Bob:

The express Cruiser has two hinged hatches with 2 hinges each.

I really have no idea what I am getting into on this but, it should be known that I do have a roll of butyl tape !

There is a frame inside that I will remove first to get an idea of where things stand.

RWS

when i bought my 10 meter
both hatches had been leakin for a while. i removed the gaskets and replaced them. they appeared to be D shaped and i coldnt find anything like it, but upon further deducing, i was able to determine a round gasket squished by the hatch lid for 28 years might just make it look like a D. i purchased a 1/2 in. round hatch gasket at west marine and that fixed the leaks for three years now. the gasket has a peel and stick ease and was simple to replace. the hardest part was cleaning out the old gasket out of the groove, this is the hardest especially near the hinge as i did not remove the hatch .i also put the butt ends of the gasket (with a dab of silicone) in the center facing front figuring that was the least likley spot for water to sit. i am going to the boat today and still have the gasket package with the part number i will post that info by monday.

bigrgh wrote:when i bought my 10 meter
both hatches had been leakin for a while. i removed the gaskets and replaced them. they appeared to be D shaped and i coldnt find anything like it, but upon further deducing, i was able to determine a round gasket squished by the hatch lid for 28 years might just make it look like a D. i purchased a 1/2 in. round hatch gasket at west marine and that fixed the leaks for three years now. the gasket has a peel and stick ease and was simple to replace. the hardest part was cleaning out the old gasket out of the groove, this is the hardest especially near the hinge as i did not remove the hatch .i also put the butt ends of the gasket (with a dab of silicone) in the center facing front figuring that was the least likley spot for water to sit. i am going to the boat today and still have the gasket package with the part number i will post that info by monday.

THANK YOU for that upcoming information.

I have noticed that mine are "spliced" at the front and the splice is at a 45 degree angle.

RWS

Yep, that's it. I put the splice on the bow end. That's pretty much all you need to do on these hatches.

Bob,
I HATE my fixed lites!!!! I have made new ones 2x from 1/2 lexan, I have rebeded them with 4 different types of sealant. I cleaned and prepped the Sh#t out of them every time! I used weights to hold them down. I had it down to a very small drip above the dinett. Looked into having custom opening hatches made but due to the trapazoid shape it was something like $900 per hatch. Been thinking of glassing both in and adding a single hatch in the center but thats still alot of work!
If anyone has any suggestions on the fixed lites please speak up.

RWS is your hatch similar to the forward hatch on the mid cabins or does it have a "Raised " surround that the acrilyc hatch secures to? on the mid cabin all you have to do is replace the gasket as it closes flush to the deck.

My hatches leaked and I didn't know how well home depot stuff would work so I didn't know what to do. Finally called Bob at Beacon and he sold me some of the d shaped gasket stuff with the peel and stick backing. Worked awesome!!!! Hardest part was cleaning off old stuff (razor place, stiff brush, and acetone). No need to remove any hardware

Todd,

Since I re-did mine a couple of years ago, I haven't had any leaks. Here's what I've pieced together. The portlights really need 5200 if there aren't screws used. The problem is 5200 doesn't work on plastic. With screws and maybe 4000, you can probably get it so it doesn't leak. Anything less than that and it will probably keep leaking.

The DOW stuff that the marine plastics company recommended is a structural adhesive and can be used with plastics. There's no chance of this leaking from I can tell. Unfortunately, I still have two screws on each side which isn't the end of the world but wasn't my original plan. I think the shims under the portlight are critical so there's a bead with some thickness that allows for movement.

Bob

Rws, the gasket i used was part # p100-55 from west marine. The store nearest me had it in stock but i had to dig through the top shelf pile to find it. It is 9/16 dia and ten feet long. I purchased two , one for each hatch and cut to fit.i stuck it down then cut it and glued the butts together. Also after pressing into groove to stick it down, i put some powder on the top of the gasket (so it wouldnt stick to hatch lid) and i left it closed for two weeksto futher stick it in place. This is the fourth summer with no leaks. The only problem is the girlfriend cannot latch the hatches tight as the new gasket needs a little more umph to pull and turn latch. Good luck i think the gaskets were around 28 bucks each

I used McMaster p/n 93085K12 to successfully fix my hatch seal. 10 feet of this will be much cheaper than anything from West Marine.

http://www.mcmaster.com

Okay guys the lexan sky lights in the 10 meters are a pain in the butt, I had mine at multiple times to rebed and use multiple selants including 5200 which is a bad choice because it eats at the lexan and makes the edges brittle. The last time I did the job was at least 6 years ago and still no leaks. I used a boat life product that has strength like 5200 but is more like silicone, you need to remove all old sealant, clean with acetone, set the sky light in place for a dry fit and tape off the sky light and all edges, lay a bead of sealant in the recess edge, fit the sky light and completely fill the void, use plastic body filler squeeges to work the sealant into the void, you can not have any air pockets in the sealant because when it cures it will make a gas that needs to find a way out and that gives the leaks, I learned this process from a guy that worked on airplanes this is how they installed the windshields. If anybody wants a more detailed description of the process PM me with your phone number.

butyl tape should have worked too.