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Marine A/C
Posted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 4:36 pm
by boatsnbars
Salon A/C stopped working on my 1988 F-36, looks like the compressor is the problem. When I was troubleshooting the problem I discovered that the salon compressor had been replaced in 2002. I think I am going to put in a complete all in one unit. This is one I found that will fit behind the sliding doors where the air handler is located now. Any thoughts???
http://www.dometic.com/31ecb039-d85d-45 ... 4e9d.fodoc
Posted: Wed Aug 01, 2012 5:48 pm
by prowlersfish
I don't think you will have room there you need a 12000 unit, Why not put it where the old unit is and run duct work you where the handler is now ? Its only a few feet. .
Thats what looks like the easiest way on mine.
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 9:58 am
by g36
if your looking at new i would also suggest looking at mermaid ac units.
they have a 5 year warranty. longest that i could verify the rest were around 1 year. you can easily call them and speak to a service tech who is very helpful. food for thought
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 10:33 am
by boatsnbars
The unit from the link is a 16000 btu Cruisair and I measured the space that's available and it will fit. I may be able to mount it a little higher on a platform and gain some storage space. You can't mount a self contained unit in the bilge as it would draw air in from below. You have to place it in the space being cooled/heated. Price is an issue with a direct replacement as the self contained unit is around $1600. a spilt unit is $2800. I looked at Mermaid units, but they were too large to fit. Also I can install the self contained unit. If I go with the split I need an A/C tech to install it. The other option is to replace the compressor and I am getting prices for that of around $1000.
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 11:11 am
by Commissionpoint
Yeh. The pump is the most expensive part. Its basically what you are paying for when you buy any type of refrigeration. Everything else is mostly metal fins, tubing, and a couple/few motors and fan assemblies, nothing special.
Like to like in your instance is the 2800 dollar unit plus install. Thats what it would cost to get back what you have now. If you do a vac test on the rest of the system and its good, replacing the pump on your old unit is probably the easiest and cheapest thing to do.
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 12:11 pm
by prowlersfish
CP The pump ? I asume you mean the compressor ?
The reason I said 12000 is becuse that what trojan use on my salon unit ( 2 12000 total ) 16000 would be fine
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 1:02 pm
by Commissionpoint
prowlersfish wrote:CP The pump ? I asume you mean the compressor ?
Yeh. Pump in this case would be compressor. Should have been more specific.
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 3:37 pm
by larryeddington
Having had an HVAC business for 6 years, 9 times out of ten it is not the compressor. You may have done this already. with Ohm meter;
1. Check the three leads to ground (compressor case) with terminals off of compressor, should not have any continuity, if it does compressor windings are shorted.
2. All three terminals should show continuity to each other but not to the compressor housing. The common leg can be open if compressor is hot as that leg has internal protection that will open on over amping, it will go back to normal upon cooling. Sometimes that can be several hours.
If above 2 are okay, I would try a same size run capacitor and see if she runs. If not compressor may be stuck. (bad news)
4. If it has a hard start kit (start capacitor and relay) either could be bad and cause an over amp situation. Take disconnect the start capacitor and when pressures have equalized (allow 10 min or eve more) the compressor will start and run normal with just the run capacitor. Hard start kit is for expansion valve systems or to defend against short cycling like when power goes off then back on in a short period of time. Most likely does not have the hard start kit though.
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 4:17 pm
by boatsnbars
@larry That's good information. I have a friend in the A/C business who is going to look at it for me. I checked switches and power all the way to the compressor, but not what you have suggested. I am sure that's what he will be doing. He also said he would pressure test everything to be sure it's worth just replacing the compressor.
@PF You have two A/C's in your salon? I have one 16k for the salon and one 10k for the V-berth and bunk room.
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 5:52 pm
by prowlersfish
I have a 12k for the salon ( one evaparator ) the another 12k unite that has a evaparator for the V-birth , one for dinning area ( same place as the bunk room ) and one in the galley area on the salon .
the way yours is set up with the 16k and 10k units may do a better job.
Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 5:54 pm
by larryeddington
Great hope is something simple. Usually is electrical, not mechanical, but not always.

Posted: Thu Aug 02, 2012 9:55 pm
by boatsnbars
After talking with Rick (A/C guy at the club) he will test everything tomorrow. Based on what I told him and what I already checked he thinks it's electrical (run contactor or thermostat, thanks Eddie). I am not tripping the circuit breaker which he said is a good sign. I am going to continuity check the compressor tomorrow just to shorten the troubleshooting time when he arrives.
Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 7:01 pm
by boatsnbars
Continuity check was good, I found a broken neutral wire to the compressor while troubleshooting. Running great now, good thing because it's very hot in Boston. A/C guy came by and pressure tested both units and gave them two thumbs up!!! Thanks to everyone for all the help/input.
@Larry good call on something simple.
Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 8:45 pm
by jefflaw35
Larry is deff a fart smeller!!!!! glad you ended up to the good!!! It was good learning for me!!
Posted: Fri Aug 03, 2012 8:47 pm
by larryeddington
Heee Heee Heee

I just know what I know and I do not know about being smart.
