Trojan Boat Forum

I just bought a 1973 31' express and would like to get rid of the points and change out the ignitions on each engine to electronic. My question is, since the boat is so old and there is no Engine manual around. Are the distributors the same or does one engine run clockwise and the other counter clockwise or is the direction difference made up for in the transmissions?

Welcome to the forum .

Yes one engine is clock wise and the other is counter clock wise . But distributors could be the same ( not positive on mopar)

here is a down load of a manual

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/Download ... Manual.pdf

You can get kits to convert to electronic. ignition . A lot of people Have done it . If it was my boat I would stay with points assuming the distributors are in good shape

Prowlersfish
Thank you for the info. I'm new to the boat and still learning. The manual will certainly come in handy.
What is your reasoning for sticking with the points rather than an electronic ignition?

Becuse they is nothing wrong with points and carrying a spare set is cheap .( and i am cheap ) yes electronic can be better but some times can cause issues if the advance is not set up correctly for marine use . I have never had a issue with points . But this is just my opinion others here many disagree . Just don't look for saving fuel or more power ,with it won't happen .

With that said using a MARINE system won't hurt anything ether
Don't use a automotive system


Some of the others should chime in and tell what they have used and what brands worked and what brands they had issues with .

distributors turn the same way and appear to be the same but not always, my two 318s have different part numbers and one has a spacer under it so length can be different. Internals I believe are the same. Mine are electronic though.

Go for the electronic kits. They did wonders for my boat.

1967 seavoyager wrote:Go for the electronic kits. They did wonders for my boat.

I was thinking about it too. What changes did you see?

Overall performance, better starting, runs better at high rpms, runs like a sea voyager should. I got my kits at Napa for my Mallory Distributors.

My F25 had a bad electronic so we went to the local salvage yard and yanked an old points unit out and it works great! My "old school" pals prefer points, so easy and inexpensive to fix if stuck out on the water. Once the electronic goes out you better have a spare on board or you could be in big trouble, so I hear... I am sure electronic has it's benefits as well.

Not even sure what we have in the "clean machine" but I will check it out.

As mentioned, you most likely have a counter-rotator engine, and both distributors rotate the same way. If you’re replacing distributors, careful with what you order; not all applications are the same. Best to record the distributor number noted on the tag and supply that if ordering new.

I’m all for old school when it comes to certain things but I replaced my points and condenser with the first generation Pertronix conversion kits that came out years ago and have not looked back. Yes the serviceability if it breaks down is non existent, you can’t simply clean contact areas and you’re off. I keep my old hardware on board for that but have never needed to use them. It would be a simple swap in a pinch as the whole base plate is removed with a couple screws, a couple of wires, insert your old plate with the points etc, set them up and you’re off. Since installed, I haven’t had any issues or ever worry about the condition of points anymore. I wasn’t really looking for performance improvements as I think they’re negligible, but I get easier starts and no maintenance.

You must remember that the point conversion kits do nothing to correct distributor wear. If they are worn causing erratic timing, the kits will not correct this. So before purchasing conversion kits, check your distributors, if they are ok, then wallet will determine whether you go with kits or new. Either way, you will still have mechanical advance. The functionality of the advance system under points plate, must be checked for proper operation.

We’re here so pick our brains!!

I have included a link to a good replacement model from Mallory. This is just an example, you must make sure you order the right one.

http://catalog.mallorymarine.com/Produc ... fault.aspx

Big D wrote:As mentioned, you most likely have a counter-rotator engine, and both distributors rotate the same way. If you’re replacing distributors, careful with what you order; not all applications are the same. Best to record the distributor number noted on the tag and supply that if ordering new.

I’m all for old school when it comes to certain things but I replaced my points and condenser with the first generation Pertronix conversion kits that came out years ago and have not looked back. Yes the serviceability if it breaks down is non existent, you can’t simply clean contact areas and you’re off. I keep my old hardware on board for that but have never needed to use them. It would be a simple swap in a pinch as the whole base plate is removed with a couple screws, a couple of wires, insert your old plate with the points etc, set them up and you’re off. Since installed, I haven’t had any issues or ever worry about the condition of points anymore. I wasn’t really looking for performance improvements as I think they’re negligible, but I get easier starts and no maintenance.

You must remember that the point conversion kits do nothing to correct distributor wear. If they are worn causing erratic timing, the kits will not correct this. So before purchasing conversion kits, check your distributors, if they are ok, then wallet will determine whether you go with kits or new. Either way, you will still have mechanical advance. The functionality of the advance system under points plate, must be checked for proper operation.

We’re here so pick our brains!!

I have included a link to a good replacement model from Mallory. This is just an example, you must make sure you order the right one.

http://catalog.mallorymarine.com/Produc ... fault.aspx

WARNING! A friend of mine has a 73 31 ft trojan with the same engines, big problem he messed with his timing and there are no timing marks on his engine, I ended up rebuilding his top end as he had water in the clyinders, and had to set the timing so far with lining up #1 @tdc and turning it back a bit. The distributer shaft actually has an end like a flat screwdriver and just dropped into a keyway where the cam is...if you do anything MAKE SURE you mark position of distributer shaft in relation to intake manifold AS WELL as position of rotor... (very important)

Some of them have the marks on the flywheel and bell housing

prowlersfish wrote:Some of them have the marks on the flywheel and bell housing

not the @#$%@!!! I have been working on!!!

rooferdave wrote:WARNING! A friend of mine has a 73 31 ft trojan with the same engines, big problem he messed with his timing and there are no timing marks on his engine, I ended up rebuilding his top end as he had water in the clyinders, and had to set the timing so far with lining up #1 @tdc and turning it back a bit. The distributer shaft actually has an end like a flat screwdriver and just dropped into a keyway where the cam is...if you do anything MAKE SURE you mark position of distributer shaft in relation to intake manifold AS WELL as position of rotor... (very important)

?? Did he check the flywheel? That's where the timing marks are. Maybe rusty but should be there unless swapped out with a different flywheel at one time. No question you have to set up timing when you install a conversion kit or new distributor. The "screwdriver" type end is usually referred to as a tang drive - no gear - can be used for standard and counter-rotation in the new electronic replacement distributors.

rooferdave wrote:

prowlersfish wrote:Some of them have the marks on the flywheel and bell housing

not the @#$%@!!! I have been working on!!!

Did not mean to upset you , but it is very common on Chrysler 318 marine and onther mopar engines.