Trojan Boat Forum

Has anyone had to fix any cracks in your black plastic gauge cluster? If so, what did you use and how did you do it? Second question , Can anyone who has "disconnected " and removed the panel offer me any helpful advise? I counted 33 wires in the main bundle. One of the previous owners thought it would be a good Idea to smear/slather liquid electric tape over every single connection thus covering all of the numbered wires that would match up with my wiring diagram! I have a lable maker and will lable as I remove but at this point I'm basically trying to disconnect the panel so I can work on it at home.
I was thinking of disconnecting everything below right at the panel but would love to do it an easier way.

As for repairing the plastic I had a few Ideas. First , strip everything out of it so it was just the black shell. make some internal supports to get it close to the origional shape. use the panel as a form and cover it with a few layers of fiberglass, fair and sand 20 different times until it is a fiberglass replica of the origional plastic one.
Second, take 1/2 plywood and create a new dash. glass it and fair it out and do away with the trojan "POD".
third, epoxy the cracks from below to add strength and use black caulk or filler to make them look better from the top then pretend it doesent bother the heck out of me!
Any advice or insight would be appreciated!

Todd,

I know Harris did this and noticed his helm looked great when I was onboard. Unfortunately, there aren't any disconnects at the helm so you have to either disconnect the gauages or at the DC panel. I spent a lot of time working underneath and wished I brought it home like you are. I had a few stress cracks which I fixed from underneath and filled a few holes using a vinyl repair kit like you would use on a dashboard.

I'm going to respray mine and will use SEM trim black. I've used this for years on car trim and it holds up great. I'm going to use it on the rub rail too. I sprayed the section around the pulpit last night before I brought it to the boat. Going back on tmrw.

Bob

Lets see if this link is the right one ...

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by RWS » Sat Jul 23, 2011 9:35 am

Hee's a link to my factory dash restored.

http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... bcef313fc4

I added a 1/4" lexan panel to over the old holes. This is one of the spots where I added the extra guages.

What "vinyl repair" kit did you use Bob? How has it held up? Harris, the link didn't work but I did find the one showing pics of your dash with the new lexan which I think was it. Very nice job! my entire panel seems like the whole thing it sagging in. I have one decent size crack about 3 inches and a few cosmetic ones on top that Bobs Vinyl repair kit could probably fix. I think its salvageable with the correct teqnique to fix it.

As far as style and appearance, for me, the factory das pod panel arrangement rocks !

The downside is no hinge and the black plastic portion is less than heavy duty.

That said, it can be easily beefed up and strenghtened and cosmetically resurfaced.

The Lexan was used to cover the holes left by the factory depdh gauge and my own gasoline floscan.

Painting the entire assembly yielded great results, as did the added reinforcements for stiffening it.

Bob told me he uses a long mini C clamp to hold his dash uo to th ewindshield for srevice.

Much better than my old coathangar, and is now in my toolbox.

I replaced all my red indicator lights as well as the entire light assemblies behind the text.

If I was to do it all again, I would have used LED's for the red lights, however at the time of the refit, they were far too expensive.

But back to basics, for me, the factory dash is perfectly suited to the boat, and for little cost and a significant time investment, can bve restored with better than new results.

As deep as you are into this refit, a new set of gauges with nice happy, shiny faces might look really nice too.

RWS

Let the games begin!!!!!

There are a couple different ways to approach replacing the original with a look-a-like. Number one, repair cracks in the original and use it to make a female mold that you could now lay up a fiberglass dash in. Done properly it will produce a very smooth finish. Make sure the bubbles are out. Number two, take that female mold one step further and make a male plug. From here you will have to do a process called vac-u-form or vacuum bagging. I have made model airplane cowls and wheel pants (large models) and a friend has made paddles and a paddle board this way with carbonfibre inserts and had an awesome results.
These procedures are not difficult, but like everything, there is a knack to them. I suggest, unless you know someone in the business, see if you can find a modeller to help you. Instructions are nice but having someone to show you is the ticket.

Thanks TC. Just spent the last 4 hours watching u tube videos on how to make molds. not sure what direction I'm going to take at this point. I need to fill the cracks and support the sagging panel before I can do anything. At least I have a few options to try. thanks

Looks like the instrument panel is substantially different on the 10 Meter compared to the eleven - but for what it's worth, I took Formica to make a new face for mine. Set the Formica down into the existing plastic "shell'.

Wow! really nice job with the formica, it looks like it came from the factory that way!

You may find the information in this link useful: http://www.urethanesupply.com/pfxinstrumentpanel.php

Lots of useful information for repair of panels that may not be in such good shape. I remember reading the Sport Aviation article when it came out (back when I was actively involved in my more expensive hobby), and the photos of the work looked just fabulous in the glossy magazine. Please do let us know how you make out. Good luck.

Thanks P-dogg! I spent hours online yesterday looking for something exactly like that!

You are quite welcome. Please do let us know how it goes, and post pics when you get a chance.