Trojan Boat Forum

i have a couple water leaks-both about mid cabin. i sealed all around helm and windshield but still get some good water penetration when it pours out. is it possible that its coming through the railing bolt down mounts and if so can i redo one railing mount at a time or does the whole raling need to be diconnected. if possible can the problem mounts be temp. sealed on the outside with a removable silicon.to see if in fact that is where the water is coming from. at the moment i get a small waterfall in the head medicine cabinet. lol any tricks help or advice is much appreciated. thanks in advance wayne

The 3M 5200 thread gives a link to Capt. Tolley's sealant. I believe its recommended to sealing bow rails, etc., but I've never used it myself. I'm planning on sealing my bow rail mounts myself. I plan on doing one at a time by taking out the screws, putting silicon sealant underneath the mounting plate, replacing the screws and letting the silicon partially dry, tightening the screws fully, and then using Capt. Tolley's sealant on the screws. I think it should work, but I'm definitely not an expert.

Yes can get water leaks thru the bow rail bolts look for loose bolts , best to rebed them . But you can try Capt. Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure on the bolts and elsewhere , pretty neat stuff

http://www.captaintolley.com/

Dog house I see you where typing at the same time . I don't recommend silicone to bed the fittings , life caulk or 3M 4000 would be better

prowlersfish wrote:Dog house I see you where typing at the same time . I don't recommend silicone to bed the fittings , life caulk or 3M 4000 would be better

Thanks. Is one (life caulk and 3M 4000) easier to use than the other? I'm no expert, so ease of use is important to me.

I don't don't think one is easier then the other .

We did mine in a weekend.

From what I've heard, this is something that needs to be done every 20 years or so.

did one side first, then the other

used 5200 and all new fasteners utilizing NYLON locknuts.

RWS

This is a job that I know will have to be done. The problem is how to get to all of the bolts and backing plates. The way my head liner and cabinets is installed, I don't see it happining. NOW, however, does anyone know if Trojan (Carver) used threaded backing plates, and no nuts??

Yes. I beleive most Carvers have no nuts. (Sorry Tony, couldn't resist.)

On a more serious note... I will definately +1 Pauls Life Caulk advice. I like it better than 3M 4000.

I see RWS went whole hog and used the 5200. I guess if his rails ever come loose the skin will still be attached to the stainless.

I rebedded the bow rails on our F-32, it was actually pretty easy, the bottomside of the rail mounting bolts are reasonably accessible,

Search 'LEAKS!"

FYI

10 Meter Express:

1) all bow rail bases have monster backing plates

2) all bases are accessible by removing:
a) luminous lexan flourescent light panels
b) 12 screws to pop out the medicine chest/mirror in the head

This job requires 2 people and a drinking coach.

Trust me, I know.

RWS

lol thanks for all the info replies and the CARVER beating. i ll check into it soon. hoping for the backing plates versus nuts.

Another consideration depending on where you are seeing the leaks - check the top of your rub rail. The rub rail is bolted through the side of the deck/hull joint. Sometimes those fasteners don't get proper bedding. If you have gaps between the top of the rubrail and hull side, water can run through on to a fastener and then just follows it in through the hull. I resealed mine a few years ago and dried up a few pesky leaks I had never been able to find.

Others may debate this point, but if you caulk along the rub rail my perspective is that it is best NOT to seal the underside of it ... leave that unsealed. That way any water that does find its way in behind the rail has a way out. I know some say to seal the bottom too, but that is only useful if you have enough spray running up the hull side that it comes up under and gets deflected by the rub rail. Ocean boater, fishing fleet, maybe. As a recreational boater, you shouldn't be out in stuff like that unless you get caught or have no choice. Or you have the bow trimmed down way too far.

captainmaniac wrote:Another consideration depending on where you are seeing the leaks - check the top of your rub rail. The rub rail is bolted through the side of the deck/hull joint. Sometimes those fasteners don't get proper bedding. If you have gaps between the top of the rubrail and hull side, water can run through on to a fastener and then just follows it in through the hull. I resealed mine a few years ago and dried up a few pesky leaks I had never been able to find.

Others may debate this point, but if you caulk along the rub rail my perspective is that it is best NOT to seal the underside of it ... leave that unsealed. That way any water that does find its way in behind the rail has a way out. I know some say to seal the bottom too, but that is only useful if you have enough spray running up the hull side that it comes up under and gets deflected by the rub rail. Ocean boater, fishing fleet, maybe. As a recreational boater, you shouldn't be out in stuff like that unless you get caught or have no choice. Or you have the bow trimmed down way too far.

both my dad and mechanic, john, agree with you about NOT sealing the underside as it allows any water build up to drain away as opposed to finding it's way inside. as for the capt tolleys, it's great stuff and i've used it everywhere, both on my old f-32 and now my tri cabin. every year after the first wash, i top coat my railing screws with it along with the pump out deck plate. it's easy, it's inexpensive and it works. i have even used it to fill the gap between the stainless rub rail and the hull to deck joint. not sure if it even really matters, but hey, i did it for the heck of it.