Trojan Boat Forum

Team Trojan -

Thanks for all the support so far. I appreciate the insight and tips that you have all given my. That being said, I have a few questions that I am hoping you can help with. This is my first boat, so some of these questions may be a little elementary.

If you didn't know, I just bought a 1986 Trojan F-27. The boat is in need of some TLC. The hull is pretty sound and the engine is ok, but the electrical is a nightmare (kinda).

1. It appears that the shore power system only runs the power outlets and water heater right now. I believe this is due to a bad "Ray Jefferson Battery Guard", which I am assuming is a charger. The unit was only outputting 8.5 volts on all three banks when plugged into shore power. I purchased a ProMariner 1240i last week and will replace the RJ soon. Will this solve my problem of being able to use lights, radio and other accessories while plugged in? I'm assuming I can then just flip on my main breaker and rock out while charging...

2. On the flip side, how can I use my power outlets while driving the boat or anchored off shore? Do I need some sort of inverter system or generator in place?

3. The Trojan Shore power system lights indicate that the "Neutral is Open". I have used my multi-meter on just about everything and can't figure this out. The cable is fine, the receptacle on shore is fine, but those lights say neutral is open. The power actually works despite that. Any thoughts?

4. My Power WInch 612 and remote spotlight also work intermittently. I suspect some shoddy wiring to be the culprit. I plan on replacing most accessory wiring. Any tips or tricks on gauge and connectors to use? are there "marine" grade connectors that I can order online? I know once you call something "marine" it doubles in price! Also, I'm pretty sure the Power Winch windlass is a solenoid issue.

Thanks for all the awesomeness that this forum exudes!

zedtwentyate wrote:
1. It appears that the shore power system only runs the power outlets and water heater right now. I believe this is due to a bad "Ray Jefferson Battery Guard", which I am assuming is a charger. The unit was only outputting 8.5 volts on all three banks when plugged into shore power. I purchased a ProMariner 1240i last week and will replace the RJ soon. Will this solve my problem of being able to use lights, radio and other accessories while plugged in? I'm assuming I can then just flip on my main breaker and rock out while charging...

2. On the flip side, how can I use my power outlets while driving the boat or anchored off shore? Do I need some sort of inverter system or generator in place?

For question 1, do you have the battery switch turned on? There is usually an on/off switch for the batteries. If this switch is turned off you will not get any power to the lights, etc. If the switch is turned on are your batteries charged? The lights, radio, etc. run off of the batteries. If the batteries are not charged the lights won't work.

For question 2, you will need either an inverter or generator if you want to use the 110V power outlets when you are not plugged in to shore power. An inverter is easier to install but will have less capacity than a generator. How long do you plan on using the 110V outlets and what kind of draw do you plan on putting on them?

The Dog House wrote:

zedtwentyate wrote:
Stuff and random text and rambling...

For question 1, do you have the battery switch turned on? There is usually an on/off switch for the batteries. If this switch is turned off you will not get any power to the lights, etc. If the switch is turned on are your batteries charged? The lights, radio, etc. run off of the batteries. If the batteries are not charged the lights won't work.

For question 2, you will need either an inverter or generator if you want to use the 110V power outlets when you are not plugged in to shore power. An inverter is easier to install but will have less capacity than a generator. How long do you plan on using the 110V outlets and what kind of draw do you plan on putting on them?

Thank you for the reply. That logic makes sense. I realize that my batteries will work when I am plugged into shore power, but the concern would be how long they last. Marine batteries are a whole new world to me, so I have no concept of how long they hold a charge. I'm trying to do a little interwebs research to learn. The batteries are Interstate SRM-24's (2).

As far as how long, I guess I would just like them to last the night with occasional use of the radio, lights or water pump. I guess I won't know until I try!

zedtwentyate wrote:
Thank you for the reply. That logic makes sense. I realize that my batteries will work when I am plugged into shore power, but the concern would be how long they last. Marine batteries are a whole new world to me, so I have no concept of how long they hold a charge. I'm trying to do a little interwebs research to learn. The batteries are Interstate SRM-24's (2).

As far as how long, I guess I would just like them to last the night with occasional use of the radio, lights or water pump. I guess I won't know until I try!

Interstate SRM-24 batteries are a little small for a boat with a cabin. Interstate SRM-27 batteries are typically used. Using an Interstate SRM-27 battery you will be able to easily use your 12V appliances (radio, lights, water pump, etc.) for one night. Typically one Interstate SRM-27 battery will last me 1 - 2 days of 12V only use. The typical plan is to use one battery to power the boat and keep one battery unused to start the engine. Once the engine is running the battery switch is changed to the battery that was used to power the 12V appliances so the engine can recharge it. I also have a battery charger that automatically charges both batteries when I am plugged in to shore power.

If you want to use batteries to power an inverter for 110V use an Interstate SRM-27 battery will not last very long. People who use inverters typically have large, golf cart battery, battery banks. An Interstate SRM-27 battery can be used with an inverter with a light load for a short period of time, but any heavy load (air conditioning or heating) will drain the battery very quickly.

Do you have a 12V or dual voltage refrigerator that you want to keep running away from the dock when the engine is not running? That will be the biggest power draw, and one Group 27 battery won't be sufficient. Before one of us writes a dissertation on power usage let us know about the fridge.

Nancy wrote:Do you have a 12V or dual voltage refrigerator that you want to keep running away from the dock when the engine is not running? That will be the biggest power draw, and one Group 27 battery won't be sufficient. Before one of us writes a dissertation on power usage let us know about the fridge.

The fridge was pretty well shot when we bought the boat, so we scrapped it. I don't plan on running a fridge while not on shore power.

Thanks!

Zed, I cut a bigger fridge hole and put in a Sears 3.5 CF, 110V. I keep six blue ice packs frozen in the top and that will keep milk, veggies, etc. cool for 2-3 days if you don't leave door open too much. I used to have an old house boat with 12V fridge and you could see the alternator belt throw rubber flecks when that 12V fridge kicked in. Same thing with the portable plate coolers. The newer ice chests keep drinks ice cold for 5 days or so, so we only keep mayo, ketchup, veggies, dips, etc in the refrigerator.

drjohn71a wrote:Zed, I cut a bigger fridge hole and put in a Sears 3.5 CF, 110V. I keep six blue ice packs frozen in the top and that will keep milk, veggies, etc. cool for 2-3 days if you don't leave door open too much. I used to have an old house boat with 12V fridge and you could see the alternator belt throw rubber flecks when that 12V fridge kicked in. Same thing with the portable plate coolers. The newer ice chests keep drinks ice cold for 5 days or so, so we only keep mayo, ketchup, veggies, dips, etc in the refrigerator.

Great idea!

I only got the Sears 'cause it was the narrowest at 28.5 inches. The other models were 30 5/8" or larger. I had to move the cabinet door pillar and side walls under the sink over about 3/4 inch to fit it in. I left more top and bottom clearance for air flow, about 1/2", and it cools much better than the one sealed in the cabinet opening.

Hows the boat coming? Been able to get out and enjoy it?

Yes! I had a guy do some work on her over the last week. He installed my new promariner charger and did some work on my bilge pumps.

We were able to get out yesterday and head over to Billington's bay for a few hours. Too bad it was overcast for most of the day! It was still great to be on the water.