Trojan Boat Forum

I am replacing my 6 gallon, 1700 series Raritan hot water heater. West has the exact model for $799.00. Home depot has a point of source 6 gallon Rheem with the same dimension (Rheem's 1 1/4" wider) for $259.00.

These marine prices are silly.

Just remember about the whole 'ignition proof' thing, and factor that in to your decision based on where the tank is going to be located.

captainmaniac wrote:Just remember about the whole 'ignition proof' thing, and factor that in to your decision based on where the tank is going to be located.

And the marine unit would probably have built-in heat exchanger with fittings for hot engine water when 110 is not available. I believe the marine heater retains hot water longer as well. I agree the cost of marine parts are higher, but there usually is a reason.

the advantage of the HEAT EXCHANGER is HUGE.

ours remains hot for an entire weekend on the hook withjout having to turn on the element.

Basically, it's free hot water.

RWS

Are you replacing this because it leaks? If not and it doesn't get hot, just order yourself a new thermostat and heating element. Other than the pressure relief valve that occasionally goes bad, there is nothing else to this heater.

Just did mine a couple months ago.

The unit is under the main cabin unit. The non-heat exchanger unit is $799. That is what my current unit is. To switch over to the heat exchanger unit, it's $899.00, and then running hoses to my galley is a daunting task.

The unit itself was never used, and I think improperly winterized. I have large amounts of rust coming out, and the water stinks.

I figured if I need hot water when were out, I'll fire up the generator.

All good points. I just don't see the reason for the radical price difference.

todd brinkerhoff wrote:The unit is under the main cabin unit. The non-heat exchanger unit is $799. That is what my current unit is. To switch over to the heat exchanger unit, it's $899.00, and then running hoses to my galley is a daunting task.

<SNIP>

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when adding a heat exchanger, simply run an inlet and return from on engine to the hot water tank.

you will be surprised at how nicely this works and how long that hot water actually does last.

I would recommend adding a shut off valve from the engine AND an additional shut off on the fresh water side.

That way, in the event of a leak, you can close a valve and continue on your way.


RWS

If you're in the habbit of using plumbing antifreeze to winterize your fresh water system (or just air), do yourself as favour and install a hot water heater by-pass. You can make this up yourself with three shut off valves (or two 3 way valves) or buy a kit. This allows you to run the antifreeze (or air) through all your lines without having to fill up the hot water tank, and it allows you to do it by simply turning valves rather than removing lines from the tank and joining them together then hooking them back up again after you're done. Saves a lot of time. Just don't buy kits with check valves (one valve system), they are problematic.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WApI3W0xSCM
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-w ... bypass.htm
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-35953-Supre ... B000BQUJL8