Trojan Boat Forum

I am currently upgrading my Distributors from the original mallory mechanical advance to GM EST Distributors. I'm a bit out of my typical "comfort zone" and wanted to verify a few things with you guys.
I verified the #1 Cylinder was at top dead center, the mark on the dampener was lined up with "0" on the timing gauge. The instructions say to align the rotor with the #1 position on the cap.
I indexed the the distributor so that the rotor points directly to the #1 as shown on the drawing (the one im pointing to). is this correct?





The new distributor does not use the resistor. it calls for a "B+" 12 volt keyed on power source. the first picture is from the old set up. the second is the new one.
Second question, can I use the purple wire from the harness that is connected to the resistor as my keyed 12v? I believe This should be keyed 12v power that was run through the resister to reduce it to 6v for the old coil? the resistor and wire from it to the old coil are not used.
on The new engine harness the purple wire I mentioned above comes spliced with a yellow wire that runs to the alternator. i connected the purple and yellow from the harness to the purple from the coil and the pink from the distributor as per the drawing. I connected the yellow to the "exciter" lug on the alternator (im not sure if this is correct for the yellow?)
Does what I just described sound correct?
Thanks!

Sounds like you got it right .( all questions )

Only one thing to add for you to check.....make sure #1 is at top dead center firing, remember the mark on the damper will be where you have it twice,.......with a new engine remove valve cover and watch the valves on number 1 cylinder,the intake valve will open then close and as it is closing you can see the mark on the damper come up , then you will have the correct timing event, number one firing,......you can actually choose anywhere you want number one on the cap so long as the rotor is lined up with it.......Mike

mikeandanne wrote:Only one thing to add for you to check.....make sure #1 is at top dead center firing, remember the mark on the damper will be where you have it twice,.......with a new engine remove valve cover and watch the valves on number 1 cylinder,the intake valve will open then close and as it is closing you can see the mark on the damper come up , then you will have the correct timing event, number one firing,......you can actually choose anywhere you want number one on the cap so long as the rotor is lined up with it.......Mike

This is correct. The TDC mark will be aligned on the compression stroke...and it will be aligned on the exhaust stroke. Be sure it's not on the exhaust stroke or you'll be 180 degrees out on the ignition timing and it will not run. You can bump engine over with key, spark plug out of number 1 cylinder and thumb over spark plug hole, when you feel compression, align your marks back up and your rotor should be pointing to number one tower on cap.

Good luck.

++ on what striper man said.

Thanks a million guys!
When I got the engines back from the machine shop they told me they were at tdc. They told me to be careful not to turn the engine over too many time because it will start to wipe the lube off the cam?? I've been "assuming" that it was on the compression stroke but will check again to be sure.
My next question, my starboard engine is my RH engine. According to the manual and everything else I've read, the firing order should be as shown on the above pic for the RH motor??? I looked at a pre-tear down pick of this engine and swear it was set with the LH firing order?? Or at least it appears that way from the pic??

Do you want a full 12V with no current limiting resistor going to the field on the alternator? I don't know the answer myself.

The reason I ask is I did recently get re-acquainted with the charging system on my '73-CJ-5. Was not charging, found a broken wire to the field. Tell tale was "ALT" lamp in gauges cluster did not come on. No resistor used but it does go thru a lamp instead. Left charging system alone when I converted the ignition to MSD dizzy and box several years ago. Maybe it doesn't matter on a GM alternator? Again I don't know.

On The original set up the purple wire on the harness is "coil" according to the book. It connected, along with the yellow from the alternator "exciter", with the resistor. I'm under the impression that the resistor reduced output from 12v to 6v. Then there was another purple from the other side of the resistor to the coil an again from the coil to the solenoid on the starter. The new set up says to remove those wires.
I guess the real question is if were not sure if the purple harness wire is a good B+ 12v keyed power source, what is the best one to use? I really didn't feel like running a single lead from the start switch to the engine if there was a better option?

As far as the 12v yellow to the alternator i feel like I'm guessing at this point. The new set up shows it running there but doesn't specify where it goes. On the old set up it went to the "exciter" lug???

yorklyn wrote:As far as the 12v yellow to the alternator i feel like I'm guessing at this point. The new set up shows it running there but doesn't specify where it goes. On the old set up it went to the "exciter" lug???

Todd if it was me I would take the alternators to my alternator guy and see if they could be used as a 1 wire type, some of them can be used that way and all they need to get the field up is a quick rev to maybe 1500 rpm.......that way you would eliminate all the field wiring and only have the battery feed wire.....just a thought...

Regarding the cam lube,if you turn the engine over by hand with a bar on the damper nut there should be no problem with the assembly lube....Mike