Trojan Boat Forum

Hello, I just purchased a 1989 F32. It has a Cruisair 16000 btu reverse air unit that needs replacement . Should I stay with a Cruisair unit? Do they have something that will retrofit or should I Try to find used? need input, Thanks

Welcome to the forum Hooked!

Two recommendations: don't buy used, and don't be tempted to increase the cooling capacity.

How about some background? Location? Is it a project boat? What's important to you regarding the replacement?

Hello P-Dogg,

Can you please elaborate on your experience with your air conditioner? I know the cruise air split units are expensive and would like to hear what you want through.

Best Regards
Butch I.

Hooked,

I have a 1975 F-32 that did not have air when I purchased her. I did some research and decided on Ocean Breeze out of Florida. With there help we calculated the interior space that was to be cooled and decided on their 18500 BTU unit with 2000 electric heat unit. I opted for the top discharge unit. I did upgrade to the electronic controller (thermostat), I think it is their 311 model. It gives total control with eight different fan speeds as well as auto modes, humidity settings and more things I still have not used.
I had removed the original hot water heater that was under the lower station and re-located to space under galley sink. The a/c unit slid into that space, thru hull fitting also. The circulating pump is just behind bulkhead in engine compartment on starboard side. The Power distribution box is under the settee seat cushion.
I also upgraded to the teak louvers.
They were great to deal with, patient, and I am very pleased with the unit. They put units together with all parts needed for the install, even s/s clamps.
My wife said she did not need or want the unit, but after I installed it that she enjoys it.

Besides the wiring, AC is about the only system that I haven't replaced on my boat.

I said not to buy used because for me, it is just not worth it. Generally you have no real idea what you are getting, no warranty, etc., and it is a real hassle to deal with. Oh, and you're putting in something that is partly used up. You pay for what you get. I'd, as they say, "rather be boating."

As for cooling capacity, you don't want the air to cool too fast. Perhaps the biggest contribution of AC is not the dry bulb temperature reduction, but rather the dehumidification. Too much cooling capacity means that the air is cooled too quickly. What you end up with in that case is cold wet air. What you want is cold dry air, which only happens when you move lots of air over the coil. On the whole, I'd stick with whatever size AC came from the factory. If it is aftermarket, more homework will be needed to make sure that what was put in was sized correctly.

On the other hand, don't assume that the seacock feeding the condenser water is sized appropriately. I'd check the duct sizing too to make sure that the supply and return ducts are sized appropriately. I've seen stuff just crammed where it fits without regard to what the evaporator needs. Keep us posted.

The boat has a Cruisair 16000 btu unit and the compressor went so I was told it is probably best to replace the whole unit. I don't know if anyone has had to replace their existing units. I would love to just replace whats bad and keep the same controls and look.

Is your system a split type ( remote condensers ) or self contained ? And what is wrong with your system ?

I don't think it's split there is a separate fan control in the v berth but not a thermostat. the compressor keeps burning up the relay.

My aft unit is a reverse cycle 16K BTU cruisair. I too thought the compressor was bad but due to its location I cannot remove it so was about to replace the compressor (2-300$). One last ditch effort was tapping on the compressor with a hammer, it has in the past freed up some stuck compressors. However looking a bit closer I noticed the thermal overload protector on the compressor and figured I would test that and low and behold it was "open" not allowing voltage to get to compressor. I jumped it out and the compressor came right on. So today im getting a 5$ part saving me a lot of work and money. Just make SURE you know its the compressor, that being said if your handy and like what you have as I do a little sweating on the pipes and you can drop in a new one give her a shot of freon and your off to the races.

Generally if it keeps burning the relay it must be over amping. I assume it works fine as long as relay is working. Short cycling (someone messing with temp such as turning it up until it quits then easing it back down), spouses are really good about doing this, will cause an overload situation. My first move is get a tool to measure current draw of compressor, as problem could be failing run capacitor. Generally if the windings in compressor short it will not run at all. Other option is use a higher amp related relay.

Another cause of high amps is loose connections, low voltage.

Bottom lines if it runs until relay goes I bet it is not the compressor. You probably need a pro to divine out the gremlins.

Still cheaper than a new unit.