Trojan Boat Forum

A few years ago I rebeded the anchor mount on the front deck of my Tri-cabin and never filled in one of the old mounting holes. Yes, I self induced the next problem ..... A soft deck under my anchor. There is a lot of info on the forum and online on how to repair it. So this fall I plan to open up the area and let it dry out all winter and then replace the balsa. I still have lots of West Systems epoxy left from other projects to use on this job.

My question really has to do with prepping the non skid gel coat deck. I was thinking of painting it with Bright side / Awlgrip. I guess I'm asking if anyone has done this? Do I have to sand the whole front deck smooth or can I roll over the non skid gel coat . I think I know the answer as I write this (sand the deck smooth).

Brightside is silicon based and is too soft and will have to be removed if you ever overcoat . I really dont like it.

What would you use?

Hi, I used Interlux Bright sides on my decks 6-7 years ago.
I made my repairs and then painted the decks from the rub rail to the edge of the cabin.
First 2 coats were reduced bright sides, 3rd coat was mixed with the non skid on the deck only not the toe rail. 4th coat was reduced bright sides to seal the non skid. I have sanded and spot repairs a few times since then with no problems. I'm partners in an auto body shop as a side job and paint all the time. Using Interlux 2 part perfection, these spot repairs would look very bad. In my option bright sides is good for what your trying to do. It is very user friendly for someone that doesn't paint that often.

I would use a good petit enamel or (gasp) rust oleum on a spot before I used the single part polyurethane.

I [used Brightside on my rear deck and it was easy for me compared to the 2 part primer interlux recommended that I put on first. The only problem I had with the rear deck was with the Awlgrip. It was too cold when I put it on and it clumped in certain areas . I think I can clean it real good and re paint it without Awlgrip. At least I was thinking of doing that. Anyways I do think it's a good product.

I also like Interlux Brightside .

Brightsides. I've loved it and I've hated it. Love it because its easy. as with anything, the prep is everything. I've had more complements on our 40+ year old boat because the paint looks like new now even 4+ years later.

Now the bad. It CAN NOT have water sit on it too long (couple of days) or winter wrap touching it that is going to draw moisture. I painted everything above the rub rail. My bow sits low as I no longer have the aft gas tanks. As such, water sits on the bow edges when it rains, sometimes for a day or two before it drys up. Where the rain sits on the bow, it has all peeled 2-3 times. I drives me nuts.

Next project is to soda blast the entire deck clean and try a 2 part paint that can handle the water.

That's good to know. My bow has that condition when on the hard. I have the bow lower so water drains out the drain hole in front. Thanks for the info. Are you considering a 2 part polyurethane?

I'm looking at doing a 2 part "epoxy" type paint. I will likely have the boat awhile, and I don't want to do it again. The drawback to the 2-parts is that they are harder, and I understand that if you have any areas that flex, it will crack (which is not desired). So, lots of prep work after the soda blast to fix some current spider cracks, fill holes, and one small soft spot.

When you used 2 part paint were you able to mix small
Batches? When I used the primer I ended up mixing the whole can. It seamed a little tricky to try to measure out a smaller batch since the Interlux primer paint I used was extremely thick and hard to measure

You might consider using a tintable spray bedliner material (ex. Raptor) then topcoating with high quality polyurethane (ex. Imron). I did mine 5 years ago and it is still flawless. It will likely last another 15 years. One great aspect is you don't have to do much fairing work, just grind the heck out of the existing surface with 36 grit, then spray the Raptor with the included 'gun' that screws right on top of the can. Then top coat it (wet on wet) with polyurethane with aluminum silicate non-skid added to make it shiny yet still non-skid. The products are available at autobody supply stores.

Your boat looks great. I'm surprised you can paint over a bed liner. I would think the paint would crack being over a soft surface.

I've been studying my soft deck issue and I'm planning to cut the bad out from below. I figure that the area being about a foot by a foot I can mange the work from below. Also, I know from my drywall work at home that if I cut from the top my boat will look like Frankenstein.

Bob Giaier wrote:Your boat looks great. I'm surprised you can paint over a bed liner. I would think the paint would crack being over a soft surface.
I've been studying my soft deck issue and I'm planning to cut the bad out from below. I figure that the area being about a foot by a foot I can mange the work from below. Also, I know from my drywall work at home that if I cut from the top my boat will look like Frankenstein.

How do you stop gravity making the epoxy drip?
The support of the deck comes from that lower skin.... please do it from above, that is the normal approach. You can see the wet core better to remove and you will have something fixed to lay the wetted new core down on and then seal it all around and most important when you replace the dek layer you will be able to press it down to make sure there are no voids between the core and top skin. How do you do that from underneath??? How do you hold it up in contact with underside of deck while replacing the lower skin??

You are likely to have delamination immediately or with time the way you are planning on doing it.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/trojanf32 ... 8792002787

Wow! Was there any part of the deck you didn't replace. Amazing.

I know what your saying about gravity and voids, but with the smaller area I was planning to do, I thought I'd use an inflated bladder from below. Not sure what that is exactly yet. I also thought I'd drill holes where the anchor fittings are and use that to fill any voids from the top once the core it epoxied in from below.

The reason I'm leaning on going from underneath is the top of the deck is in great shape. The only reason for the soft area is I left a hole in the deck from an old anchor mounting screw.