Trojan Boat Forum

Hi. I am planning a trip from Lake Champlain to NYC. Should be in the harbor a couple days before heading back to Vermont. Do I need to be concerned about the salt water in the harbor for such a short stay. Any precautions or treatments I should be aware of.

Thanks

Randy

What kind of anodes do you have? If they are magnesium, it won't take long to dissolve them in salt water.

Do you have raw water or closed cooled engines? If raw water cooled, you should be using the lower temp stats (140) in salt water.

Thanks for the reply. I don't know about the anodes. It's a 1974 Searaider with twin 318's. New to me. How would I discern the type of anodes? It is raw water cooled.

Thanks
Randy

You're probably okay for a couple of days with the anodes if they're magnesium providing they are currently in good shape. Chances are you have old zinc anodes that are doing absolutely nothing. You should change them to aluminum ones at your next haul out.

What temp do your temp gauges read when the engines are at running temperature? That will tell you which stats you have. Typically engines initially set up for raw water operation are built with 140* stats but if running in fresh water, they can be replaced with 160* stats as the engines run better with the hotter temps. If the previous owner made this modification, then I would install the cooler stats for running in salt water.

Thanks. I will ask the marina mechanic about changing/checking the anodes. Purchased the boat late last summer. The engines had been rebuilt 3 years earlier and have 200 hrs on them. They were changed over to electronic ignition. I believe on the one ride we took before haul out the temp gauges were reading 160.

Thanks for your help.

Randy

If temps 160 you are probably fresh water cooled. Raw water uses 140 thermostats.

Do you know if you have engines with coolant in the blocks (fresh water cooled)? Are there heat exchangers with a rad cap on top? If not, they are raw water cooled and 160* stats are chancy in salt water. If you do have heat exchangers (fresh water cooled), then you're okay in salt water.

To get back to the core of your question, you should be absolutely fine for venturing into salt water for a few days. You should be all cleaned and flushed out by the time you get back to your home port. Just give the tops sides a good wash.

Thanks everyone.

bjanakos wrote:To get back to the core of your question, you should be absolutely fine for venturing into salt water for a few days. You should be all cleaned and flushed out by the time you get back to your home port. Just give the tops sides a good wash.

That would depend on what temps the engine run at ( raw water cooled only). The build up from running hot may not just flush out . Also I believe salt water will not transfer heat as well as fresh . so 140 stats to be safe . I would also conceder going to different anodes for the year , looks like Aluminum maybe a good choice But I would have to do more research .

Sounds like a great trip .

prowlersfish wrote:

bjanakos wrote:To get back to the core of your question, you should be absolutely fine for venturing into salt water for a few days. You should be all cleaned and flushed out by the time you get back to your home port. Just give the tops sides a good wash.

That would depend on what temps the engine run at ( raw water cooled only). The build up from running hot may not just flush out . Also I believe salt water will not transfer heat as well as fresh . so 140 stats to be safe . I would also conceder going to different anodes for the year , looks like Aluminum maybe a good choice But I would have to do more research .

Sounds like a great trip .

++1
I'd be worried operating in salt water with 160* stats in a raw water cooled app. One of the issues if I remember correctly is crystal formation at that temp. Apparently it doesn't take long for this to start happening. It'll coat your cooling passages and just because you'll be going back to fresh water boating a couple of days later doesn't guaranty this layer will be removed in every cranny of the block and manifolds. Someone with more salt water experience may be able to comment on this.

Most definitely the best way to go for anodes on inboards is aluminum now. Zinc will eventually be fazed out even for salt water applications. If you're boating in fresh water, zinc is useless.

Big D you are correct I seen that crud in many engines, Even the ones flushed out every use . And yes I been around salt water boats longer then I will say . Have seen what the wrong stats will do .

To The OP Changing thermostats to 140 deg range and the right anodes is cheap and easy and goes a long way to a trouble free trip .


I double checked and Aluminum is the right choice for anodes . So change them before launch and your good for both areas . Make sure you change all of them and all are the same .

Wow, thanks everyone. I will change to 140 to play it safe and have aluminum anodes installed. Is it ok to run 140 stats in fresh water also as the trip is planned for late August, so will be on Lake Champlain till then?

rnrvmd wrote:Wow, thanks everyone. I will change to 140 to play it safe and have aluminum anodes installed. Is it ok to run 140 stats in fresh water also as the trip is planned for late August, so will be on Lake Champlain till then?

You will be ok with the 140 stats . While the 160 maybe preferred by some 140 is ok and most likely what your boat came with and could still have .

Again we are assuming you don't have a closed system and are raw water cooled .

I believe I have impellers, would that mean it's raw water cooled? However, if it's a closed system then the 160 are ok and my only concern is adding the aluminum anodes, correct?