Trojan Boat Forum

This is a replacement / continuation of this thread https://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/post ... f=1&t=9990

I have been getting the boat ready for re-launch for the season (Apr 21!!!), and since I was stored in an indoor heated facility for the first time this year I am trying to cram as many jobs in before launch as I can. Of course I have had since November to get stuff done in the storage shed, but only started 2 weeks ago... The list includes refinish all woodwork, repaint boot and flybridge stripes, polish and wax all, redo hatch weatherstripping, replace port strut bearing (had 'my guy' already do that), upgrade steering from old Syten system to current SeaStar components (had 'my guy' already do that), and re-caulk around flybridge fairing and salon windows... plus the normal annual list... Think I am in trouble for getting done in time!

In any event, noticed that Micron CSC (Shark White) is pretty much falling off of my swim platform supports. Stored indoors 16 prior years it wasn't heated and the shed had tons of air gaps, so kept a certain humidity level. Had a bit of flaking and issues with the platform supports, but not a huge problem. Appears that this winter the wood has shrunk due to heat and dryness in the more heated and controlled environment in the new shed and paint is just falling off the supports... three swipes with a good scraper pretty much took each side of the outboard supports to bare wood. So want to understand other's experience with CSC over wood to find out if this is really a moisture related shrinkage and expansion problem or maybe a bad batch of paint (before I use the same year old can to re-coat)?

When trying to look up info/issues on using CSC over wood that expands and contracts, I clued in to Interlux saying that you should contact them for 'special instructions' for priming etc if putting CSC over underwater metals... They say putting it over aluminum is a definite no-no, but still contact them for putting it over any other metals...

Have been using CSC as antifouling for several years now and I have (obviously) applied it to my struts and rudders, and trim tabs, without noticing this warning... I have had continual issues with adhesion problems or chipping off on metal parts, so wondered if anyone on the forum knows the 'special instructions' for using CSC on metals..

Back in the day, I painted just about everything with Micron. I believe the warning stems from the heavy metals content in the paint that makes the other materials less noble.

Several boats in the yard where I am located are painting all of their running gear with Rustoleum zinc primer. I am totally at a loss as that makes the whole dang gear somewhat less noble when comparing against the hull zinc.

The boys in Wanchese supposedly swear by it for keeping their gear clean. Anyone have any thoughts?

The zinc coats works great on the props it works a well as anything on the shafts . Nothing seems to work but so well on the shafts But I feel it has a edge of bottom paint and prop seed there. Pettit barnacle block and the Rustoleum zinc primer both seem to work the same and the MSDs sheets look almost the same . In almost a year I have very little los of speed with it . It won't make you gear less less noble , no different then clamping on a zinc if you think about it . And its a lot cheaper then prop speed .

I am currently experimenting with the Rustoleum zinc paint. As prowlersfish mentioned, it appears to be virtually identical to Petit's Prop Coat Barnacle Barrier at 1/3 the price. Last spring, I put it on my props and shafts except where the zincs are and the boat has been in the water since then. Unless an emergency comes up, we will dive/inspect this spring and haul this fall.

As for painting teak, it is quite difficult to get paint to adhere to it because it is so oily. I am doing a repair on my swim platform and have been researching how to glue teak. Everything I have read says to sand it, immediately wipe down with acetone or denatured alcohol and quickly glue. I am sure the same needs to be done with paint, and that is what I have done with Cetol on teak in the past. FWIW, the glue I decided to go with is West Systems 1:1 G/flex epoxy slightly thickened with cabosil. The G/flex has many of the good properties of the 5:1 West Systems 105/205 and remains a bit more flexible.

If you don't mind the cost (about $180 for my boat), Propspeed works over multiple seasons. I can do my props, shafts, rudders and struts with a single (two part application) and not touch it again for three seasons. The only thing I do a few times a season is wipe off the film/slime with a sponge by diving under. Through season two, literally not one barnacle to be found. Midway through season three I might have a few but I can squeak out the rest of the year. Even at this stage, it's still better than anything else I tried at the end of that season.

Having done it every year, it's really nice having "off" years now where I don't have to touch the running gear.


Bob