Cappy's f32 rehab

This forum is for comments and the exchange of information relating to Trojan Boats and boating. Please do not post used parts or boats For Sale in this area. For general, non-boating topics please use our "General Discussions" section.

Note: Negative or inflammatory postings will not be tolerated.

Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon

User avatar
Captrichc
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 245
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2018 7:08 pm
Location: Bronx, NY

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by Captrichc » Fri Jan 18, 2019 3:54 am

Its definitely strong. Trying to figure out hiw to get the new gas tanks in now
1974 f32 Sedan
Twin 233 Mercruisers

User avatar
Captrichc
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 245
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2018 7:08 pm
Location: Bronx, NY

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by Captrichc » Sat Jan 19, 2019 8:42 pm

New tanks are on the boat. I didnt say they were installed yet.... lol. I need to make a craddle for them and im going to have to raise them off if the hull a little bit.
1974 f32 Sedan
Twin 233 Mercruisers

oil&water
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 233
Joined: Sun Dec 11, 2016 5:52 pm

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by oil&water » Mon Jan 21, 2019 8:58 pm

Moving right along Cap!
Currently Trojan-less :?

User avatar
Captrichc
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 245
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2018 7:08 pm
Location: Bronx, NY

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by Captrichc » Mon Jan 28, 2019 7:15 pm

Measured the new fuel tanks for the craddles. Ordered the marine ply wood and started measuring for the floor.
1974 f32 Sedan
Twin 233 Mercruisers

User avatar
Captrichc
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 245
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2018 7:08 pm
Location: Bronx, NY

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by Captrichc » Wed Feb 06, 2019 5:19 pm

Ok ran into an issue with the water tank. I had to remove the locations where the fill and vent fittings were for the tanks. Replafed the wood top that had entire box of screws in with 3/4 pvc sheeting. And is now centered. Will post pics in a few.
1974 f32 Sedan
Twin 233 Mercruisers

User avatar
Captrichc
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 245
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2018 7:08 pm
Location: Bronx, NY

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by Captrichc » Wed Feb 06, 2019 9:44 pm

Water tank
Attachments
20190206_185838.jpg
20190206_185838.jpg (48.74 KiB) Viewed 1245 times
1974 f32 Sedan
Twin 233 Mercruisers

User avatar
captainmaniac
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 1841
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:26 pm
Location: Burlington, Ontario

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by captainmaniac » Thu Feb 07, 2019 2:15 pm

How did you figure out which screws were holding the tank in and which were holding it together, or did you just yank 'em all and figure it out later?

User avatar
Captrichc
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 245
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2018 7:08 pm
Location: Bronx, NY

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by Captrichc » Thu Feb 07, 2019 8:53 pm

I used a sawzall and cut between the wood and tank. once the heads were cut off the tank just lifted out. I used goof off to clean off the goop that was in between the wood and tank. Then went to HD and got 3/4 pvc board. Calked and evenly spaced the SS screws. The tank is back in the boat now
1974 f32 Sedan
Twin 233 Mercruisers

User avatar
Captrichc
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 245
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2018 7:08 pm
Location: Bronx, NY

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by Captrichc » Thu Feb 07, 2019 8:55 pm

Cut new 1.5 in fill lines. Cut the 3/8 fuel lines. Tomorrow i will cut the 5/8 vent line. And finish installi g the new tanks. Once thats done i will start laying the new plywood.
1974 f32 Sedan
Twin 233 Mercruisers

User avatar
captainmaniac
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 1841
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:26 pm
Location: Burlington, Ontario

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by captainmaniac » Thu Feb 07, 2019 10:31 pm

Captrichc wrote:
Thu Feb 07, 2019 8:53 pm
I used a sawzall and cut between the wood and tank. once the heads were cut off the tank just lifted out. I used goof off to clean off the goop that was in between the wood and tank. Then went to HD and got 3/4 pvc board. Calked and evenly spaced the SS screws. The tank is back in the boat now
Just spent 10 minutes trying to figure out how you could do that, then clued in that you are doing this with fuel tanks removed. Makes muuuuuch more sense now! Guess I can't really do that with my fuel tanks still in place. And I am NOT pulling them just to pull the water tank!

mikeandanne
Moderate User
Posts: 583
Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2012 11:30 am

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by mikeandanne » Fri Feb 08, 2019 10:02 am

captainmaniac wrote:
Thu Feb 07, 2019 10:31 pm
Captrichc wrote:
Thu Feb 07, 2019 8:53 pm
I used a sawzall and cut between the wood and tank. once the heads were cut off the tank just lifted out. I used goof off to clean off the goop that was in between the wood and tank. Then went to HD and got 3/4 pvc board. Calked and evenly spaced the SS screws. The tank is back in the boat now
Just spent 10 minutes trying to figure out how you could do that, then clued in that you are doing this with fuel tanks removed. Makes muuuuuch more sense now! Guess I can't really do that with my fuel tanks still in place. And I am NOT pulling them just to pull the water tank!
There were only 4 long screws holding the tank in on our 78, the balance were all shorter, just holding the lid to the tank....was a snap to remove...drill gun and back out screws, a few screws heads were buried but easy to find, pry tank out from between stringers depending on the fit, really only a few minutes and not heavy at all.
78 F 32

User avatar
captainmaniac
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 1841
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:26 pm
Location: Burlington, Ontario

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by captainmaniac » Fri Feb 08, 2019 1:29 pm

mikeandanne wrote:
Fri Feb 08, 2019 10:02 am
There were only 4 long screws holding the tank in on our 78, the balance were all shorter, just holding the lid to the tank....was a snap to remove...drill gun and back out screws, a few screws heads were buried but easy to find, pry tank out from between stringers depending on the fit, really only a few minutes and not heavy at all.
How can you identify which of the 100 screws are the 4 that really need to come out?

User avatar
Captrichc
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 245
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2018 7:08 pm
Location: Bronx, NY

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by Captrichc » Sat Feb 09, 2019 3:40 pm

captainmaniac wrote:
Fri Feb 08, 2019 1:29 pm
mikeandanne wrote:
Fri Feb 08, 2019 10:02 am
There were only 4 long screws holding the tank in on our 78, the balance were all shorter, just holding the lid to the tank....was a snap to remove...drill gun and back out screws, a few screws heads were buried but easy to find, pry tank out from between stringers depending on the fit, really only a few minutes and not heavy at all.
How can you identify which of the 100 screws are the 4 that really need to come out?
I would take a fine knife maybe in between the stringer and tank. Try to feel for the screws then kind of eyeball the holes in top.
1974 f32 Sedan
Twin 233 Mercruisers

User avatar
captainmaniac
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 1841
Joined: Sat Apr 30, 2005 10:26 pm
Location: Burlington, Ontario

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by captainmaniac » Sat Feb 09, 2019 7:46 pm

Captrichc wrote:
Sat Feb 09, 2019 3:40 pm
I would take a fine knife maybe in between the stringer and tank. Try to feel for the screws then kind of eyeball the holes in top.
Hard to get a fine knife into that gap given very little distance between that and fuel tanks. Also knife easily hung up on coarse fibreglass weave on top of stringers... Previously tried using a piece of fine but firm wire (from sprinkler system flags - bent 90 degrees) as a feeler but couldn't really detect 'real' from 'false' hits as the plywood/tank are tight to the tops of the bulkheads. The wire dragged pretty much the entire length of the sides.

I want to pull the tank to re-seal around the edges (a couple of years of indoor heated storage and I think things have contracted and broken seal) - when I fill the tank it just pisses around the edges when full as opposed to water coming out of its vent. I tried an epoxy sealer and applied somewhat blindly to where it was needed along the sides (using dental mirror to see where the leaks were coming from) and aft end, but impossible to get to the forward end because of how close it is to the bulkhead. Areas I sealed were okay for a year, then a few more leaks showed up again the next year. Alternative is to replace it (40 years old so who knows what gunge is inside of it so maybe not a bad idea), but still have to get it out to do that!

Anyways... don't want to hijack the thread. Had just hoped I could get a quick and simple answer while people were talking about it...

User avatar
Captrichc
2019 Gold Support
2019 Gold Support
Posts: 245
Joined: Mon Jul 30, 2018 7:08 pm
Location: Bronx, NY

Re: Cappy's f32 rehab

Post by Captrichc » Sat Feb 09, 2019 10:15 pm

captainmaniac wrote:
Sat Feb 09, 2019 7:46 pm
Captrichc wrote:
Sat Feb 09, 2019 3:40 pm
I would take a fine knife maybe in between the stringer and tank. Try to feel for the screws then kind of eyeball the holes in top.
Hard to get a fine knife into that gap given very little distance between that and fuel tanks. Also knife easily hung up on coarse fibreglass weave on top of stringers... Previously tried using a piece of fine but firm wire (from sprinkler system flags - bent 90 degrees) as a feeler but couldn't really detect 'real' from 'false' hits as the plywood/tank are tight to the tops of the bulkheads. The wire dragged pretty much the entire length of the sides.

I want to pull the tank to re-seal around the edges (a couple of years of indoor heated storage and I think things have contracted and broken seal) - when I fill the tank it just pisses around the edges when full as opposed to water coming out of its vent. I tried an epoxy sealer and applied somewhat blindly to where it was needed along the sides (using dental mirror to see where the leaks were coming from) and aft end, but impossible to get to the forward end because of how close it is to the bulkhead. Areas I sealed were okay for a year, then a few more leaks showed up again the next year. Alternative is to replace it (40 years old so who knows what gunge is inside of it so maybe not a bad idea), but still have to get it out to do that!

Anyways... don't want to hijack the thread. Had just hoped I could get a quick and simple answer while people were talking about it...
I don't even want to tell you what the inside of mine looked like. I didn't take any pictures because that's how gross it was. You could also cut the strips part out and make a new top. That's ultimately what i did in the end. After it was out. Related the top with a pvc sheeting. Expensive but mold proof, water proof, won't shrink, etc.
1974 f32 Sedan
Twin 233 Mercruisers

Post Reply