JAV
Nice job
Bob
Painting
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bob wilkins
- Registered user
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 3:29 pm
- Location: Eastern Yacht Club Middle River Md.
Bob,
The prep work is the most important step in order to get a good paint job. De-wax the boat before you sand it. Don't sand the boat if it has wax on it. It will drive the wax into the microscopic pores of the glass and make it very difficult to get out. This could show up as fish-eye in the final job.
I like to use a high quality bristle brush with an angled bristles. The angle allows you to get into tight places. When I’m finished I toughly clean it in thinner and then wash it with soap and water; paying particular attention to the heel of the brush. With proper cleaning the brush will last years. Mini foam rollers work well for stripping and tight places.
Make sure the paint is toughly stirred. Keep stirring until there is absolutely no pigment on the bottom of the can. I never use the paint without thinning it first. Don’t put thinner in the can of paint, unless you plan on using it all, otherwise pour only the amount you need into another container and add thinner to it. I use about an ounce per quart. By thinning the paint you will see runs right away and can take care of them. NEVER RETURN TINNED PAINT BACK TO THE ORIGINAL CAN. Put the paint on thin. I can’t stress that point enough. Don’t put too much paint on the roller and roll an area. Tip the paint you just rolled before you roll the next area. Look at it from different angles to make sure you haven’t missed any spots before you move on. Avoid going back and trying to paint an area that has already flashed, you will only wind up screwing up the job. Pull the masking tape immediately after finishing painting. If you need to apply a second coat re-mask. If the paint dries, the paint edge it can tear or chip when the tape is removed.
I hope these tips help.
The prep work is the most important step in order to get a good paint job. De-wax the boat before you sand it. Don't sand the boat if it has wax on it. It will drive the wax into the microscopic pores of the glass and make it very difficult to get out. This could show up as fish-eye in the final job.
I like to use a high quality bristle brush with an angled bristles. The angle allows you to get into tight places. When I’m finished I toughly clean it in thinner and then wash it with soap and water; paying particular attention to the heel of the brush. With proper cleaning the brush will last years. Mini foam rollers work well for stripping and tight places.
Make sure the paint is toughly stirred. Keep stirring until there is absolutely no pigment on the bottom of the can. I never use the paint without thinning it first. Don’t put thinner in the can of paint, unless you plan on using it all, otherwise pour only the amount you need into another container and add thinner to it. I use about an ounce per quart. By thinning the paint you will see runs right away and can take care of them. NEVER RETURN TINNED PAINT BACK TO THE ORIGINAL CAN. Put the paint on thin. I can’t stress that point enough. Don’t put too much paint on the roller and roll an area. Tip the paint you just rolled before you roll the next area. Look at it from different angles to make sure you haven’t missed any spots before you move on. Avoid going back and trying to paint an area that has already flashed, you will only wind up screwing up the job. Pull the masking tape immediately after finishing painting. If you need to apply a second coat re-mask. If the paint dries, the paint edge it can tear or chip when the tape is removed.
I hope these tips help.
Gerry
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's
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bob wilkins
- Registered user
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2008 3:29 pm
- Location: Eastern Yacht Club Middle River Md.
Gerry, Great advice for Bob. Obviously you have done this before. One point I would add. The key to technique is the ability to maintain a "wet edge" and Brightside likes to dry rather quickly. (thinning helps) As you have said, DO NOT try to go over where you have just painted. This is why maintaining the wet edge is sooo important. Also, the odd run can be addressed when the paint has cured by wet sanding the run with 600, 1000,1500,2000 then bufing with 3M Finess it11. Good Luck!!
Gerry, Great advice for Bob. Obviously you have done this before. One point I would add. The key to technique is the ability to maintain a "wet edge" and Brightside likes to dry rather quickly. (thinning helps) As you have said, DO NOT try to go over where you have just painted. This is why maintaining the wet edge is sooo important. Also, the odd run can be addressed when the paint has cured by wet sanding the run with 600, 1000,1500,2000 then bufing with 3M Finess it11. Good Luck!!
My previous boat was a 31’ woody. I painted the hull every year and I had that boat for 22 years. I could paint the entire hull with a quart of paint. It would take 3 days. I would sand the hull with 100 grit the first day. Mask and paint the white on the second day. Paint the black stripes the on the third. Some times I had help, other times I did it by myself. I could paint the hull just about as quick as I can wax my F36.
Jimbo 36 is right about keeping a “wet edgeâ€. Very important. And you are right about the paint flashing quickly. It’s easier if there are 2 people painting. A roller man and a brush man. If you have a brush man have a second paint brush. Sometimes the roller man needs a brush. Once you start, don’t stop until the job is done or you get to a natural break where the painted surfaces don’t touch each other or sharp corner.
Temperature and humidity are also things to be aware of. I always hoped the temperature was at least 60 degrees and dry. 65 is better and 70 is ideal A sunny day is also ideal unless it’s over 80, then you want the clouds or keeping that wet edge gets tougher.
One more tip. If you are using a new roller sleeve (other then foam) wash the roller before you paint with it. That way you will get rid of all those little woolies that get into the paint when you first start.
Jimbo 36 is right about keeping a “wet edgeâ€. Very important. And you are right about the paint flashing quickly. It’s easier if there are 2 people painting. A roller man and a brush man. If you have a brush man have a second paint brush. Sometimes the roller man needs a brush. Once you start, don’t stop until the job is done or you get to a natural break where the painted surfaces don’t touch each other or sharp corner.
Temperature and humidity are also things to be aware of. I always hoped the temperature was at least 60 degrees and dry. 65 is better and 70 is ideal A sunny day is also ideal unless it’s over 80, then you want the clouds or keeping that wet edge gets tougher.
One more tip. If you are using a new roller sleeve (other then foam) wash the roller before you paint with it. That way you will get rid of all those little woolies that get into the paint when you first start.
Gerry
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's