mid cabin - port side leak (rainwater)

[BobCT]

I fixed all of my porthole leaks but the port side is leaking pretty much the whole area from the locker next to the stairs to end of the dinette table.

I caulked the entire perimeter of the boat between the rub-rail and the fiberglass but that didn't do it.

I re-bed some of the railings but need to do more plus including the gas fill. In the meantime, I used wrap tape to seal up anything in question. I really don't think my leak is anything on the deck at this point. It's either been re-bed or its taped up.

Windshield maybe? I am missing some of the black channel trim at the bottom. Maybe it's getting in there and working its way down.

Anyone else with a mid-cabin had the same problem? The starboard side is staying dry.


Bob

[S.A.M.]

I had a small leak on my starboard side, inside the hanging locker of the midcabin. The windshield frame needed to be caulked where it meets the fiberglass. Also check your beading where the radar arch is bolted in.

Hope this helps.

[BobCT]

and caulked the radar arch last week. Next "test" is Saturday. Hoping I have it fixed because it's coming out this weekend and would like to have it resolved and not carry into the spring launch.

Bob

[aaronbocknek]

i had an odd leak on my f32 that i could never figure out where it was coming from. after periods of hard rain, my bilge would always have water in it so i knew water was entering the boat from 'somewhere'. one afternoon, i discovered that there is a 1/16 inch gap between the metal rub rail and the hull to deck joint. water would find its way in this area, and travel through the rub rail bedding screws and leak into the bilge. i have discovered this amazing product that solved the problem on the very first try. its called CAPT TOLLEYS CREEPY CRACK CURE. i swear by this product. i used the dispenser to put the product inbetween the small gap of the rubrail and the test was this past weekends deluge on the east coast. the result was a bone dry bilge. no leak. none. nada. i used it on every exterior screw and rail mount after cleaning around the areas with denatured alcohol. what is great about this product is its higly viscous nature. just a small drop will seek out a gap and fill it. it's white then turns clear after it drys. its less messy than caulking too. best used on horizontal areas of the boat. i use the 11 ounce bottle to refill the 2 ounce bottle, as the smaller one is easier to work with. this can be purchased at http://www.epoxyproducts.com/capt.html
the creepy crack cure website.... http://www.captaintolley.com/
of course, like anything else, what works for me, might not work for anyone else with the same results, however, it has worked for me and i like the results.
aaron in baltimore.

[aaronbocknek]

more on creepy crack cure.... from their website.... just an fyi.


It's a totally different approach
to finding and fixing leaks

• It finds and seals hairline cracks
The sealant, being thinner than water, finds its way right into hairline cracks and joints where other sealants cannot reach.

• It traces mystery leaks
The rapid absorption of the sealant into a surface indicates the source of a leak. Conventional sealants cannot possibly do this.

• It's quick and easy to apply
There's no need to remove old sealants. You just apply the sealant along the line of a crack or joint until no more is absorbed.

[Dennis Weisberg]

Our 1988 Mid-cabin has had persistent leaking issues, mostly on the starboard. They are clearly related to the sky light installation. I have removed both and rebedded. Seems to have worked well on the port but the starboard, in the head, continues to weep in light rain and leak in heavy. Also run into other owners with same problem.

Also seems to weep through the smallest of spider cracks in the plexiglass. Spoke with the guys at Beacon and they recommended I go to a plexiglass specialty shop with the pattern and have new glass cut, then rebed it. The water can migrate almost anywhere off the skylights to wherever you are noticing the stains.

[BobCT]

I think they were leaking for years but are dry now. I was going to get some new Lexan cut as well but realized that they have a curve when I pulled them out.

I'm not sure if it needs to be molded that way or can be bent into place. Looks like it's 1/2 Lexan on mine. I really need to get two new ones, I just re-sealed for now. It would be great if we could find a place to make us all new ones. Does anyone know of a mid cabin parts boat that we could grab one as a template?

I actually found a place in CT that will make them but didn't want to be w/o it while I waited. I'm getting hauled this weekend so maybe an option.

I'm going to get some of the creepcrack as well. I think my area around the dinette portholes has something to do with the rub rail. I already caulked the top between the rail and the fiberglass. Today I caulked between the SS part of the rail and the rubber part. I'll know on Sat if it worked. Also did around the windshield as someone else suggested.

Once I solve this, I'm totally dry.

[Dennis Weisberg]

Ordered Capt Tolleys yesterday and will try it on the skylights. Hope it will fill any Hairline cracks. Thanks for the recommendation.

[aaronbocknek]

when you apply the creepy crack cure, make sure the surrounding area is clean and dry. before i apply it, i always clean the area with denatured alochol. when you apply it, look to see how fast it disappeares. if its quick, then the gap that needs to be filled is big, slow means that its finding a place to go. it's really good stuff. follow the directions and use it every 30 minutes until it stays where you put it.
aaron in baltimore.