Refinishing a Teak deck, 1972 SeaRaider

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Refinishing a Teak deck, 1972 SeaRaider

Post by BMac »

I have just purchased a 1972 Trojan SeaRaider 30'. The back deck has been covered for a number of years with carpeting. Under the carpet the wood is teak with black lines. The colour has faded and I would like to redo it this winter and return the wood to the original "look". Any suggestions on how to proceed or what to use? Any books that can tell me how to go about it would be appreeciated as well.


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Post by JRB3 »

See header: 'Trojan Boats For Dummies'

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Post by chucka »

If you want to get inspired, check out these photos. This looks like an AWESOME quality restoration of teak decks. This is linked off the trojan photos web page on this site.

The product used is "Honey Teak", from Signature Finish in Florida. He says this is by far the absolute toughest marine finish for teak that you can get.

I've never used it, but the Bennet's photos speak for themselves.

I took a much more pedestrian approach with my boat. The laminated teak cockpit deck and underlying support frames were rotted out when I bought her 2 years ago. (my foredeck is fiberglass.) I ripped out the cockpit deck & frames and re-built using mahogany planking over marine plywood. I coated all the new frames with West systems epoxy for better long term water resistance. Given the value of the boat and the price of teak, I couldn't see spending the money for Teak to rebuild. I wouldn't spend a lot of money or effort on the cosmetics if there are underlying issues with the integrity of the decks, but if not then go for it.

You need to make a basic decision if you are looking for functional boating enjoyment, or the aesthetics of a restoration that can take a lot of effort and energy.
Lots A Luck
Trojan F-26 Express
Narragansett Bay, RI

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Post by BMac »

Thanks for the direction. The pictures from the F26 are amazing. Thanks for the tips on products to use.

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Post by sixbennetts »

chucka and Bmac,

I wanted to thank you both for your kind words. I don't stop by this board near as often as I should.

This project, which is ongoing, is worth every penny and second. The time spent with my kids alone makes it worth it, and the looks I get as we cruise past the 1/4 million dollar yachts on our lake is just icing on the cake.

You really have two approaches to how you strip and refinish. Chemicals and elbow grease.

What we did was use chemicals on anything we could that was removable, and able to be tabled in the driveway where we could control run-off. Everything else was done with a good quality woodworking scraper that you get at any hardware store. Buy lotsa blades, unless you can resharpen them. I never had much luck with that, but we did the whole boat with about 20. Round the cutting corners slightly with a file so you don't dig in, and take your time.

About the black lines. They are caulking similar to what you're used to working with, and will pull out if you get too aggresive. It'll take you a while to get the hang of it, but once you do, it goes pretty well. If you come across some loose sections, you can cut out what's loose, and patch in new caulking. Mask around the area very carefully, because you cannot remove the caulking from the grain, or sand it off after to get it flush. I'm not sure what type we used, but a little research will get you the right kind for deck seams.

If you have any finish left in another spot, use this as your guideline as to what you put on. Consider adding a UV inhibitor and some non-slip grit to the last couple coats, and you're in like Flynn!

I can't stress Honey Teak enough, that stuff is bullet proof. Takes a little getting used to, 'cause you have to mix each batch and apply it all before it hardens, but you can snuff a cigarette out on the cured stuff without a blemish, and touch-up is a breeze.

Hope I helped, and sorry for the late reply.


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