Trojan Tri-Cabin - loose strut
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Trojan Tri-Cabin - loose strut
Hi, curious if anyone else has had this problem. Our port side strut is loose. We can get to the set of bolts closest to the starboard side no problem, however, the set closest to the port side is not accessible due to the stringer being in the way. We don't want to have to remove the fuel tank since it is half full. We are thinking about cutting through the stringer with a hole saw to gain access to the nuts and bolts. Has anyone else had this problem and if so what did you do? Thanks for the help!
If you have a wood backing plate inside the hull that the strut bolts pass thru, it could be rotted due to water intrusion which would cause the bolts to be loose. These pieces of wood are usually glassed over which makes this area of the hull look cored. If you have access to these areas, its easy to cut them out and glass in some new pieces of hard wood. Be sure to seal the wood including the edges of the thru holes to prevent future rot.
I also added a stainless plate for the bolts to pass thru inside the hull to help spread the load.
I also added a stainless plate for the bolts to pass thru inside the hull to help spread the load.
Paul
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
Yes, there is a wood backing plate and it is rotted making the strut loose. Problem is that the one set of bolts is not accessible due to the stringer being in the way. Ironically part of that stringer that is in the way was partially cut away by the manufacture since it goes right over the top of the other set of nuts and bolts for the strut. What we are thinking is just cutting away the rest of the already cut stringer to gain access to the other set of bolts. Hope that makes sense. Before we did this however, we wanted to see if anyone else has a better idea or thoughts on this process.
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I would be careful with just replacing what you remove for access. You need to maintain structural integrity. I'm assuming the stringer is glass over wood. If you have the room to cut out a minimum of an 8 to 1 scarf joint, you can reinstall the same piece. Use a good quality epoxy (West System) and mechanical fasteners to reassemble the wood that was removed. While you're at it, the factory probably did a poor job of sealing the exposed wood in the opening; coat this area as well. Grind the surrounding glass (as far as you can) and glass over the entire area with a substantial weave (after the first thinner primary weave). By the way, I've had a lot of success with using Starboard as backing plates instead of wood.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
Thanks BigD. We also consulted with a local marina and where we are going to make the access point no problem, they said it's not hazardous to the structure of the boat. We will re-glass where we cut. Starting this project tomorrow and will give an update when we're done. Really appreciate the help! Where the Shepherd /Trojan manufacturer made the original cut, they did not re-glass and absolutely no rot, from what I have read they dipped the stringers in some special solution. Guess the solution would burn your skin off but made the stringers super resistant to rot. Our stringers are as solid as the day the boat was built.Big D wrote:I would be careful with just replacing what you remove for access. You need to maintain structural integrity. I'm assuming the stringer is glass over wood. If you have the room to cut out a minimum of an 8 to 1 scarf joint, you can reinstall the same piece. Use a good quality epoxy (West System) and mechanical fasteners to reassemble the wood that was removed. While you're at it, the factory probably did a poor job of sealing the exposed wood in the opening; coat this area as well. Grind the surrounding glass (as far as you can) and glass over the entire area with a substantial weave (after the first thinner primary weave). By the way, I've had a lot of success with using Starboard as backing plates instead of wood.