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yorklyn wrote:.
RWS, Its a piece of cake to remove the pulpit. I did it in about 10 min. Its alittle heavy but you could eaisly tie up to a T dock with the bow over the dock and pull it off with a friend. I dont think Im going to go crazy with it as it seems pretty well built just like Bob said. I'm going to strengthen the area that bolts to the hull and leave the rest alone. I'll take plenty of pics.
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
RWS,
Pulpit is all done! I sanded the old wood and fiberglass and beveled some of the surounding thick edges. I brushed on west system epoxy,layed one layer of choped strand mat on the flat area, then used 6-8inch pieces as tabing and extended them up the sides, then one more large piece of chop strand (i wrapped this one about 1/2 way up the sides) then I used some fiberglass cloth to build it up the last little bit. the origional fiberglass looked like it was a single piece of thin mat. once it dries ill test fit it, grind as needed to get a tight fit, prep for paint and install. I think I may add a support right at the bow of the boat. it looks like the origional design that all of the down force on the screws that held the piece of rub rail on. I want to be sure the force is transfered to the boat directly and not through a few screws that are in "shear". I'll let you know
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
Looks familiar I'm a few days behind your other posts. If you want the part #/size of the bigger carriage bolts (they're actually called something else), let me know and I'll dig it up. I wasn't as concerned about the threaded part myself but thought the head could stand to be bigger. Plus mine was so waterlogged, the fiberglass around the bolt holes was starting to crush. The bigger head covers up some of the repair work I did.
So why haven't I posted the final results of mine the audience asks? Because it's still not back from being gelcoated!! I was carving turkey when I dropped it off and is supposedly done as of today. We'll see. Kinda wish you did yours first because.....
I used ply/glass and epoxy and re-attached the fiberglass skin I removed. Your method looks a lot easier than I what I wound up doing.
"Now batting, Harris Bowers.... Bowers"
my fiberglass skin was cracked to hell and not usable. my bolt heads were sinking slightly but the wood underneath was not rotted? I think the skin up top is just alittle thin. I think I may just fill in the indents with a structal filler and increase the bolt size. where did you find the bolts Bob? I am getting ready to spend a few days figuring out all the fastners I'm going to need to put this thing back together and start shopping around . I was thinking of trying Fastenall for the stainless screws and bolts. I will be getting alot of stuff in bulk so I plan to shop around. I keep seeing alot of "marine grade" stainless thats something other than 316 stainless so I want to be sure I'm getting the correct stuff.
I'm sure we will see Harris's pulpit project done during the "off season" in Florida! (Does Florida even have an "off season"???) LOL
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
Well I worked all day saturday and sunday and 1/2 the day today on the boat. After looking closer at the "indents" from the mounting bolts of the bow pulpit I realized the entire pulpit had a bow in it with the high sides on the outside of the pulpit in line with the bolt holes. I masked the edge of the teak with duct tape, mixed up west system with the structual filler and took a straight edge that spaned the width of the pulpit and troweled it into the low area. After it dried I used west system with 407 fairing filler to fill in the imperfections and blend far edges of the raised area into the existing gel coat. This took two applications, The pictures are before the final application. I was able to maintain the caulk gap by waiting until the epoxy set up alittle and then using a straight edge and a knife cut the filler and gently pulled the filler out to maintain the gap.
Thanks to the info from Bobct, I ordered larger mounting bolts along with over $300 of "other" misc stainless fasteners.
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
I also decided to do away with the old windless. I had some stess cracks where it was mounted. I took a grinder and ground own until the laminate was not cracked. I also ground out the old mounting holes. taped over the bottom of the holes and filled with a structual filler,Took west system and chopped strand mat and added about 3 layers to build it back up. after drying t sanded the entire area smooth and then skimmed it with fairing compound. I did this so the smooth patch didnt show with the dimpled non skid around it. when I paint it I will mask a radius in line with the hatch to seperate this area.
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
I removed what I guess you could loosly call "duct work" and installed new flex duct. I disconnected and removed the AC unit. It was working before but I would like to replace it if funds allow, if not I'll reuse it. I highly recommend removing the panel that hides the ac and inspecting the unit and duct work. Mine was an absolute joke. even if i wan not going to remove it , 1hr in fixing the mess would have been a huge help in the systems performance! lots of air leaking from every joint and the PO used regular duct tape everywhere which was no longer stuck to anything! I finally drilled all the holes and fastened the salon floor down for good!
(BTW if you replace the flex duct, dont use the thicker R-8 stuff! it was a total PITA to install with two people!)
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
Found out something new and useful. If you have a 10 meter mid-cabin and need to access anything in the "cubby hole" below the dash where the control cables and helm hoses are located, there is a plywood access panel in the aft cabin directly below this area. if you pull back your headliner and remove 8 screws you can access the rats nest of wires in there. I was getting ready to cut an access panel below the helm so I could disconnect it to rebuild it. I was in the aft cabin doing something else, looked at the plywood and got all excited (one less hole to cut !) I easily removed the helm!
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
wow, I could have used that bit of info many times over. I did a ton of wiring there, controls, helm rebuild, etc. I wonder if it's worth installing a hatch panel permanently? It's pretty out of the way, visually speaking. Would be nice to have access all the time.
I at least hinged the side panel for now. There's some nice storage in there, I keep a few baskets of tools I use all the time.
headliner and interior foamed back vinyl were delivered today. I believe im on the home stretch for the prep for paint and should be ready in a few days. the new controls , exhaust hose and more "awl grip" accessories were delivered this week. My dilemna now is the temp. awl grip 545 primer needs at least 50 degrees withthe cold temp accelerator to cure . we have been hitting 50 as a high temp here but diping much colder at night. I have diesel fired torpeado heaters that I can use before and after the application to warm the warehouse but im concerned about the residue from the diesel . this is just the primer I'm worried about because by the time i sand it all down ,I should be good temp wise for the topcoat. I think I may warm things up for a few hours, kill the heat and wipe the boat down with the awl prep solvent , spray the primer and then fire the heaters back up after the solvent flashes off. Or i could wait 3 weeks and be fine! I'm running out of time and need to keep moving forward. Gosh I luv owning a boat!!!
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
Hey Todd, glad to see things are going well. I have a question for you. What size/type props are you running? The reason I ask is because I think the ones on my 1987 10 Meter Mid-cabin may not be correct. They are Federal 16x16 cupped, 3 blade Nibral and in very poor shape. Before I have them repaired and balanced ($800-$900), or buy new, I'm curious what yours are since we own identical boats. My rebuilt engines are right around the same horsepower too, at 350HP each. Let me know. I had a place tell me I should be running 17x19 3-blade.
Thanks, Mike.
Mike,
My props are 16.5 X 16 three blade. When I first purchased the boat they were 16.5 x 17. I could only get around 3900 rpm (if I remember correctly after 8 yrs) I took them to black dog props in kent island and the adjusted them to where they are currently. After the adjustment to 16.5 x 16 I was around 4350 wot.
I did not have anything done to my props this time. I plan on running her for a while to see where I'm at after the rebuild and then have the props adjusted. I'm having the machine shop regrind the cam shaft to give me more torque at a slightly lower rpm. I had to run around 3350 to keep her on plane with limited trim tab use before. I would like to be closer to 3200 .
Got good news this past week! Kastle brothers called and were able to straighten my one bent strut! They checked my shafts for micro cracks and said although they were pitted , they were perfectly straight and safe to reuse. got new cutlass bearings. they were able to clean up and machine my shaft couplings, supplied me with new hardware and said it was no problem to reuse them. They were very reasonable too!
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
I'm a few days behind your other posts. If you want the part #/size of the bigger carriage bolts (they're actually called something else), let me know and I'll dig it up. I wasn't as concerned about the threaded part myself but thought the head could stand to be bigger. Plus mine was so waterlogged, the fiberglass around the bolt holes was starting to crush. The bigger head covers up some of the repair work I did. 
I finally drilled all the holes and fastened the salon floor down for good! 
