Replacing Fuel Tanks on 1972 Trojan F-36

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Plan B
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Replacing Fuel Tanks on 1972 Trojan F-36

Post by Plan B »

My boat mechanic just found rust on the lower outside edge of my port aft fuel tank. The tanks are galvinized. The rust is severe enough that I need replace the tank and think it would best to replace both aft tanks at the same tie. Thankfully the tank is not leaking. The other tanks also appears to be in good shape. The old exhaust system for the motors and generator was replaced a couple years ago. The port side exhaust may have been leaking salt water and aided the rusting.

My mechanic said the transom teak deck above the tanks will need to be removed. He also said the space to get the tanks out is very tight and that he might have to remove some of the structural supports to hoist the tanks out. I feel a big bill coming for this one and feel like I"m about to get soaked.

Does anyone know if the tanks will come out without removing any structural supports? Are my rear fuel tanks 50 gallons each? Any idea of the hours and costs to replace the tanks? My saddle tanks appear to be in good shape, but are also galvanized. I really can't aford to replace thm also at this time. Are the harder to remove than the aft tanks?

Thank you in advance for any advice.
gjrylands
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Post by gjrylands »

The rear fuel tanks are 50 gallons each. They were an option to increase the range of the boat.

Can’t you eliminate using the rear tanks and leave them in place. You will need to redo the fuel lines, and empty and flush the tanks to remove any gasoline, but replacing them is going to be very expensive and will lay up the boat for some time. You carry 250 gallons in the main tanks. Do you really need to carry the extra 100 gallons in the rear ones?

Unless your rear deck is in need of replacing, I would leave it alone. If and when you need to do major work on the rear deck, would be the time to remove or remove and replace the rear tanks.
Gerry
1979 F36 Twin Chryler 440's
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Plan B
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Post by Plan B »

Gerry, thank you for your reply. I have considered draining and cleaning the rear fuel tanks and have seen other comments in the forum with a couple owners doing the same thing. I am not sure what this might do to the value of the boat if and when we decide to sell. Would this be viewed as a negitive action on a boat survey that could hurt the value of our boat?
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guglielmo6160
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Post by guglielmo6160 »

how much would a job like that cost,,? seems like a truck load od money
1983 10 meter express
Plan B
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Post by Plan B »

I have heard $5 k to $10 k to replace both tanks. I bought the boat for $55k four yrs ago and have already spent at least $30K redoing the bottom, rewiring the 110 wiring, new electric service panel, new exhaust system, rebuilding the head, new risers, and the list goes on and on. The surveyor caught most of the major items but he said they would not be expensive repairs which was no the case. I learned a hard lesson on this one. The boat looked nice and had an extensive interior remodel done to it, but structurally it had big problems and mechanically was not well maintained.

Frank
jimbo36
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Post by jimbo36 »

PLANB, I agree with leaving the tanks alone and do not think it would have any effect on value. 250 gals is standard for your boat anyway. Keep your coin. You know what they say about boat ownership. You might need it for something else, who knows. Jimbo36
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prowlersfish
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Post by prowlersfish »

Mine where removed when the diesels where put in ( the mains where replaced with alum. at that time ) do you have a removeable rear deck ? mine has one but its a 77/78 . if it has then should be no issue to remove them . removeing the tanks would not hurt the value at all . when remove the fillers ( a must ) don't worry about the holes just put a rod holder there . Leaving then in could cause a issue if bad on a survey .
"Boat has bad rear fuel tanks " don't sound good . not have rear tanks would be no proplem


how bad is the rust ?
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Plan B
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Post by Plan B »

On the underside and rear end of the fuel tank the paint coating that covered the tank flakes off in thin small pieces. The surface underneath is rusted but still appears to be solid. The paint with a think layer of oxidation is what flakes off. We are going to proceed with emptying and flushing the tanks, and leave them in place for now and will consider removing them at a later date (may be this is where we could put batteries for an Inverter.... extra storage would also be great). The rear teak deck does appear to be screwed down and comes off in a couple sections. When I purchased the boat the exhaust was shot and it appears the underside of this tank may have been sprayed by leaking cooling water for a long time (the previous owner did not take good care of the boat). The other tank is in good condition and has no flaking. Time to move to "plan b".

Thank you to everyone for the comments and feedback. I have learned so much from comments posted over this website over the years.

Frank
Plan B
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