Removing Windows

[Bob Giaier]

I read the furom every day (well almost) ever since I bought my '73 tri cabin back in October. At this point I consider myself a newbee. I've been working on her every chance I get so that I can actually launch her next spring (or maybe early summer). We'll see. You guys have been great answering the questions I've come up with.

Thanks to the forum, I've been getting help off line too by a veteran Trojan owner on everything else I'm currently tearing into. My latest problem has to do with the removal of the front solon windows. These windows are over the V birth and are not on many of the tri cabins. Mine has them and they leak badly between the glass and frame and most likely between the frame and cabin too. They are tempered and non opening sealed windows. I was able to cut thru the bedding with a new tool from Dremal called a Multi-Max. It's a vibrating puddy knife that cuts thru almost anything. I can't seem to get under the window flange on the outside to cut thru the remaining adhesive that holds the things in place.

Anybody have any tricky ideas on how I might get them out without breaking them?

[David Kane]

Sounds like you are trying to remove them from the outside. Have you considered removing them from the inside? I've got a '75 tri-cabin & had to replace the starbord side vee berth compartment window last spring before launch. Took off the starboard wall panel, then the window was easily accessed to remove/replace.

[Bob Giaier]

Thanks for the reply David, Actually, you are describing the port holes in the v birth. These are windows in the solon where the bench seat is up front. It seems allot of Tri-cabins don't have these windows. I can see by the photo you have of your tri cabin that you don't have them. You're lucky, you won't have to worry about any leaks there. I was told there is a release agent you can get at a marine store that breaks down the bonding agents in 5200 adhesive. I plan to look for that and also I'm going to try Laquer thinner. My thought is to try to push the stuff behind the window flange with a saturated rag. Mybe that will help "un glue" it. Thanks again though for the reply,

[jimbo36]

Bob, The new product you are looking for is UN-HESIVE made by North Star Products, Inc. of Delray Beach, Florida. I have the same boat as yours ('74 Trojan Tri cabin) with the windows you speak of. I had a full canvas cover made which stopped my leakage but resealing is on my "to do" list. I would like to hear how this works out for you.Jimbo36.

[Tuck]

i thought this was a topic on removing windows from a computer.

nevermind.

[Bob Giaier]

Thanks for the info Jimbo. I'll check that out. I have see the "snaps" for a cover and have been thinking about how that might also provide some sort of sealing. If you did anything special on how you accomplished this that might be helpful for me, since I'm not sure if I'm getting them out yet.

Tuck.... Tuck, That' good, I can barely operate this computer as it is.

[randyp]

Not sure if this will help, but on my F26 the fixed windows over the v-berth were also leaking. If the frames are metal (aluminum I think) there are a series of screws that hold the frame to the bulkhead, in addition to the sealant. If you've gotten most of the sealant seal broken then you can get a thin-bladed tool like a Wonder bar and GENTLY pry up the frame from the remaining seal. Do this carefully and be patient. Use a thin-bladed knife (I used a fish filleting knife) to help you cut thru and additional seal. Hope that helps.

[Bob Giaier]

It gives me hope. I have tried this but gave up and thought i'd qestion the forum experts. thx

[MTP]

i thought this was a topic on removing windows from a computer.

nevermind.

best post yet....

[Bob Giaier]

Well I finally got the windows out. Once I got the first one out the other 2 came out pretty easy. I used Un-hesive which made the job allot easier. I talked directly with Jake at Un-hesive and he was a big help. He told me to spray the un-hesive behind the window flange and cover it with plastic and heat it with a heat gun. Go to http://www.un-hesive.com/ to view the product.

While heating the out side, I had someone else on the inside cutting the adhesive from the interior window frame using a Dremel "Multi-Max". This tool has different blade attachements that vibraate at a high frquency.

After the outer flange was heated for at least 20 minutes, I took a 1" putty knife and hammer and chisseled between the flange and the fiberglass all the way around the window. I sprayed more Un-hesive, then used a razor blade behind the flange and in the interior frame to make sure there was no residual adhesive holding the frame in. Lastly and this is the most un-nerving part, I took the claw of a hammer and rammed it behind one corner of the outer flange and pryed one area at at time pulling the frame away from the fiber glass. I used a cedar shim to protect the fiber glass from the hammer and I also used another hammer to beat the claw behind the flange. It also helped to stack a few putty knifes up and ram those first behind the flange in order to creat a gap for the claw of the hammer.

Anyways, I'm off now rebuilding the windows which I have already done on the aft cabin walls. Once I dissassemble and frames and have them powder coated, I'll take them to Mt Clemems Glass (that's in Mt Clemens Michigan). They did a great job sealing the rear windows. The people there own boats and understand the need to make sure they are properly sealed.

Well that's it. Hopefully this posting helps someone else out that's thinking of removing their Tri-cabin solon windows.