Project: Trojan 10 Meter Express

Natchamp · Post by **Natchamp** » Mon Jul 11, 2011 5:35 pm

Gents,

I would like to introduce you to my new project. Itâ€™s a 1985 Trojan 10 Meter Express Cruiser. I just had it delivered to my house so I can work on it there. Obviously it needs some substantial work! But I love the lines and design of the boat, it is exactly what I wanted.

My plan is to really fix the ole girl up, not just do the minimal it takes to get it back in the water. I will thank all of you profusely in advance for all the questions I am about to ask as I go through this project. Iâ€™ll post lots of pictures along the way to show my progress and hopefully help someone else down the road.

The first thing Iâ€™m going to do is a preliminary check on the motors and start them up. It has twin Crusader 454/350â€™s. You can probably tell by the pictures the boat has been sitting for a while so I have lots to do. Iâ€™ll by-pass the fuel tank for the initial start up as well as throw some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and crank it over until I get some oil pressure before actually firing them.

Below are some pics right after delivery as well as a youtube video of some of the transport.

Youtube: My Trojan Going Home

Mark "Project 10m"

k9th · Post by **k9th** » Mon Jul 11, 2011 5:58 pm

Looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you but she'll be worth it in the end.

I am curious about the third photo that appears to show wooden dowel-type rods sticking through the hull. I've never seen anything like that before - what's going on there?

I am also curious if you had a survey done before you purchased the boat?

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Mon Jul 11, 2011 6:26 pm

Welcome to the forum.

The holes at the water line on the sides are the Harry Schoell patented side exhausts.

They WORK GREAT and they also SOUND EXCELLENT!

Makes synchronizing the engines a BREEZE!

You have the only EXPRESS CRUISER I've ever seen with only two windows per side. Generally most production models have three and some of the early examples had four.

The cockpit layout and deck height, and sliding lexan door also tell me EXPRESS CRUISER.

You should also have the vacuum liner hull and hollow stringer arrangement.

Take the plugs out of the exhaust before you fire up those engines and be damn careful about gasoline lines and fumes.

Fumes are heavier than air and WILL collect in your bilge.

Many have lost thier lives when a poorly maintained boat has gone BOOM.

You better check EVERYTHING OUT
BEFORE
you fire the old girl up !

Be Safe !

Lots of folks here to help you with questions.

RWS

Natchamp · Post by **Natchamp** » Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:02 am

RWS wrote:You should also have the vacuum liner hull and hollow stringer arrangement.

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. What is a vacum liner hull? Are you referring to the manufacturing process of vacum bagging the resin into the cloth?

Does anyone have any pictures of what the stock exhaust configuration should be? I believe the previous owner did something different with the thru-hulls for the exhaust but I searched and can't find any specific pictures and info relative to what its suppose to be. I will be re-doing every thru-hull in the boat and especially the exhaust area since the boat was leaking around there.

Yesterday afternoon I got a chance to do some initial clean up (see below). I wanted to clear everything off the deck because I probably wonâ€™t be using any of it and I want good access to the engine room since the â€œmechanicalsâ€ are the first phase of the project. Cheers

Mark

pk · Post by pk » Fri Jul 15, 2011 4:00 am

Hi and Welcome Mark! I see you have just the same model I have. And I have also done mostly the same work. I have swapped the old engines in benefit for a pair of Navistar 7.3 Turbos. Today I have started with the interior. My boat will be ready for salty waters in a three - four weeks time. (I hope....

) If yoy take a look at "The Norwegian Trojan" in an earlier string, you may find pictures and things to help you further.

Natchamp · Post by **Natchamp** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 10:21 am

PK,

All I can say is.....wow !!! I read both of your 11 page threads. Lots of info for me in there, very helpful. I congradulate you on your dedication and all the work you have put into your boat. Also, glad to see you are healthy now

. I wish I could go with diesels in mine. It sure is tempting since my boat is out of the water to do all this work to. But the budget is not there, plain and simple. Thanks a lot for all your phots, that really helped me understand alot more about my boat!

Mark

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 12:22 pm

Mark,

With some tweaking and updating of your existing 20+ year old systems that are more than likely suffering from a lack of ongoing upkeep, you can make that boat into something special.

The Crusader 454 engines are fine in this application. Nothing wrong here on that at all. If yours are in good condition, it's just a case of ongoing maintenance and repairs unless you find that there is a big repair cost involved at which time you would evaluate your options.

I don't know your background or mechanical aptitude, however if you are able and willing to do the work yourself, you just might surprise yourself with the results.

You can count on lots of support and assistence from the guys on this forum.

Don't throw away that deck furniture!

RWS

BobCT · Post by **BobCT** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 12:28 pm

I wouldn't second guess keeping the 454's. They run forever and are cheap and easy to maintain. If you need to feel good right this minute - diesel is more than gas at the dock.

If you're like me, your mechanic bills will be basically zero which is how I justify the fuel burn on my mid cabin.

Besides, the threat of explosion makes you a better boater

Bob

Natchamp · Post by **Natchamp** » Fri Jul 15, 2011 1:29 pm

Thanks guys,

As far as my engines are concerned, I will feel better and know more once I run them and see what kind of shape they are in. Since my boat is out of the water and I'll have it all apart, this would be the best time to do a conversion. I do think this boat will be something special when completed. I'm somewhat extreemly mechanically inclined, have CNC machines to make goodies, and have fabricated all my life. There are 2 main reasons that motivate me to diesels. The first and foremost is fuel economy. Most of my use will be ocean fishing and when I figure how much a trip will cost for gas its not a positive feeling. The second reason is the whole issue of gas being more easy to go boom! Safety is a big thing for me when I consider I'll be out in the middle of the ocean. Ok, not quite in the middle of the ocean but you get my point

Actually, the more I learn and see, the happier I am about getting a boat like mine and fixing it up compared to buying a used boat that would visually appear to be in much better shape. I think to myself, do all of those people in 20+ year old boats really know how close their seacocks are to failing and what the consequences are?

But I digress.

My current dilema is how to remove my onan generator. Anyone have a good idea on how to do that? My current plan is to somehow use a cherry picker. Either that or build an A-frame hoist.

Mark

p.s.
Below is a pic of another project I did a few years ago. It's not a boat but it is a 1970 (yes I said 1970) Porsche 911.

pk · Post by pk » Fri Jul 15, 2011 2:20 pm

When I removed my old Onan I use a lightweight crane (cherrypicker?) The Genset wight is not more than 375 kilos, or 800Lbs. It was a "piece of cake"!

By the way; Really nice that 911!

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 7:10 am

If you are going to scrap out the genny, you caould simply take it apart to get it out.

That's what I did. To my surprise, I found most of the bolts did not unscrew, they simply twisted off.

Remember all of these components have some serious age on them and may have been exposed to salt water for a good part of thier lives.

As I recall, I also had to cut a shaft with a sawzall.

The new diesel genny is smaller and far lighter than the Onan was.

With a full load, it burns less than 1/3 galllon per hour.

This particular diesel is certified to operate in a gas environment.

It runs off of it's own seperate 17 gallon tank and can run for over 48 hours on full load.

It starts every time, is reliable and safe.

Also with the gen sep, it's quieter than the Onan.

RWS

RWS · Post by **RWS** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 8:22 am

You might want to make a punchlist of things to check out or replace before she goes into the water.

Here are some suggestions:

CHECK OUT:

bilge pump systems. you have three one in the salon floor, one in the engine room and one aft behind the fuel tank. Make sure the float switches, manual switches and pumps are working properly. Check these out with the main panel both ON and OFF as you never know what wiring nightmares may have been created by previous owners/mechanics.

every electrical component
engine risers & elbows
consider replacing the mechanical fuel pumps on the Crusaders
seacocks
fuel filters
stale gasoline
thru hulls
sanitation system
engine compression (after getting the batteries set up properly)
strainers
remove fuel guage sending tank unit and check tank for stale fuel and or debris.
cutless bearings
examine props closely for dings or damage
measure and record your prop size for future reference
shaft zincs
divers dream zinc
bonding system
fire supression system

REPLACE:

FIRST AND FOREMOST CHECK THE 'SWITCHES' ON THE 12 VOLT ELECTRICAL PANEL. WHAT AT FIRST APPEAR TO BE TOGGLE SWITCHES WITH SHORT HANDLES ARE ACTUALLY AIRPAX BREAKERS. YOU MAY FIND THAT PREVIOUS OWNERS/REPAIR PEOPLE MAY HAVE REPLACED ONE OR MORE BREAKERS WITH A SIMPLE TOGGLE SWITCH.

THIS CAN CAUSE AN ELECTRICAL FIRE AND MUST BE CHECKED OUT BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE.

bad hoses
all impellers 2 engine, one genny
spark plugs while doing compression test
gas filters- there is apair of filters/water seperators in th elazarette, then a cartridge or canister filter in line, then an in the carburetor inlet "stons" filter.

motor oil and oil filters
pencil zincs
coolant (yes, it does have a life and does attack aluminum. I have to change mine every 2 years MAX with my Yanmars.
bottom paint
fire extinguishers
carbon monoxide detectors (2)

Carry spare fan belts, fuel filters, and a 3700 gph bilge pump with hose and alligator clips might not be a bad idea with the goal being to eventually add it to the engine room bilge as a 4th back up pump.

Just a few ideas, I'm sure others will add more to this starter list.

If you are ever on Floridas west coast and want to see my 10 meter and see how she performs, drop me a PM.

RWS

Natchamp · Post by **Natchamp** » Sat Jul 16, 2011 9:25 am

RWS,

As usual, thank you very much! I had mentally made a check list like that but didn't have anything actually listed like that. I do plan on checking and re-doing all systems on the boat.

My overall approach is to :

1) start the engines and verify they don't need to be rebuilt. Evaluate their overal health level, compression, etc. The engine issue is the biggest "fork in the road" for me.

* Assuming everything checks out ok with the engines *

2) Engine room - Perform full maintenance on the motors including new water propellers, full tune up, maybe new carbs, maybe new intake manifolds, remove and service the exhaust manifolds, risers, gaskets, exhaust, etc. Check alternators. While everything is off the motors and I have good access I'll repair the exhaust exit issue thru the hulls. I'll also completely clean the engine room and paint all the floors. I'll also re-do and/or rre-route all the wiring. Also all new seacocks and thu-hulls in the engine room. Install the new battery setup. Do anything nessesary on the drives, shaft, packing boxes.

3) Remaining mechanicals - Fix/maintain the steering, trim tab system, shafts, props and any other mechanical system.

4) Plumbing - Re-do/fix/maintain all the plumbng aspects including waste treatment, fresh water plumbing, all the bilge pumps, all of the remaining thru hulls, etc.

5) Electrical - Repair/re-do any remaining elctrical systems using tin covered marine wire. Anything that wasn't covered during the engine room phase. I might re-do the helm's dash cause I don't like it very much.

6) Interior Cabin - Re-do all of the cabin interior I decide to do after a thourough cleaning and evaluation.

7) Helm and Aft deck - Evaluate what I want to do for furniture, seating, flooring, etc.

8.) Exterior bodywork and paint - Bottom paint, remove and fill all the old buttons, do any further fiberglass repair, probably paint everything.

Mark

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Mon Jul 18, 2011 6:11 am

hi mark, tri cabin aaron in baltimore here. where in SOCAL are you located and did you have problems with your home owners association? i'm curious why the underwater exhaust system was doweled and epoxied over.

keep us posted on the progress.

best of luck.

tri cabin aaron, middle river, md.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon Jul 18, 2011 6:45 am

As far as the compression test on a engine that has been sitting , most likely will not test that good . after running under load for a while you will get a more accurate test after things reset and free up .