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Hello everyone thought id sign up for the forum and tell everyone hello
Just got myself a new 1977 Trojan F36 (Hey its new to me) Cabin Cruiser and she needs a little bit of work so i figured i can get on here and get a few tips and tricks
Anywho here are some pix of her.
She was re powered in 2006 with brand new 454's that only have 55 hours each on them... the guy who owned it before me had it since then and purchased here for 44k and then was trying to sell it last year for 30k... now it was repoed and i was the first one to submit a written offer to the bank and got her for a steal of 13.5... so lets see how she does
i just finished sanding her and 2 coats of interlux bottom paint on here (i just need her to last till next summer for now) and then haul her again... (no time to blast her all the way down and then paint from scratch)
she needs a crap ton of teak work to be done and a good wax which i already have... next week she will have brand new waterproof hardwood flooring and countertops, sinks, and showers... so once the storm is over with and i can actually drop her ill start on the work and post pics as we go...
Last edited by Vitaliy on Thu Sep 01, 2011 9:25 am, edited 1 time in total.
both of my boats are kept right next to each other in Norfolk Virginia by Little Creak Naval base
I'm not sure what the original motors for the vessels were however the guy who had it before the guy i got it from (the original owner) kept EXTREMELY great tabs and logs... he has all the information for everything in organized folders and a great log book with all the original fill and motor usage receipts... i haven't gotten to the point to see why the engines were originally hauled in the first place and what they used to be but regardless two brand new blocks aren't a bad thing to have
The only thing i need to do really is get a schematic for the boat to find out where all the wiring goes, couze its 2x 30 amp connections on either side and i have a 50/250 slip.. just want to know exactly what is powered off each connector so i don't accidentally under power and trip some stuff out.
i just took an accidental quick glance at the back deck pic and it made me have the chills on the amount of wood work that i need to do... any advice or ideas on how to go about this? varnish or teak oil? i know how to prep the wood just don't know whats better for the finishing coat....
prowlersfish wrote:For shore power you need a 250V 50amp to twin 30 amp splitter .
Big blocks are not common but there are a few tricabins around with big blocks
i ordered the power splitter on amazon from $180 but im just trying to figure out which side powers exactly what... i figure the one side is just for the ac/heater plus the stove and the other side is for the regular outlets
as far as the teak is concerned... im seriously thinking of oil and then varnish... to preserve the original look and varnish it very light... the oil i would hope will protect the original shape of the wood underneath
Welcome to the site.....did you get to do a sea trail and run her? My back deck is teak and I like oil. I redo it 1 time a year but I'm in a covered berth and have full canvas........John
prowlersfish wrote:For shore power you need a 250V 50amp to twin 30 amp splitter .
Big blocks are not common but there are a few tricabins around with big blocks
i ordered the power splitter on amazon from $180 but im just trying to figure out which side powers exactly what... i figure the one side is just for the ac/heater plus the stove and the other side is for the regular outlets
as far as the teak is concerned... im seriously thinking of oil and then varnish... to preserve the original look and varnish it very light... the oil i would hope will protect the original shape of the wood underneath
Once you hook up the spliter turn off and on each side to find out what is on each side .
On mine the front braker runs the forward AC the oven a/c watrer pump apox 1/2 the plugs the rear runs the rear AC ( uses f pump) the water heater .
Do not turn on the breaker in between the 2 mains ! if you have power on both mains , that for junping when you only have 1 cord hooked up
Boating is good for the soul
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
Wouldn't this boat have the Power Sentry system as well? If so, each 30A main will have its own set of (should be) labelled breakers, that should give at least some indication of base wiring.
vitaliy, welcome aboard. Just acouple of things that may help you out. You may want to check the year of your boat. I do not think they built a 1977 with the cockpit. Before doing any work on the cockpit sole check the supports under them. They could be rotted and may need replacing. This will change your approach to how to attack the repair. Also, if you oil the teak, varnish will not adhere to the wood. You either go with oil OR a coating. I have used Cetol forever with great success. Good luck with your new boat. jimbo36
jimbo36 wrote:vitaliy, welcome aboard. Just acouple of things that may help you out. You may want to check the year of your boat. I do not think they built a 1977 with the cockpit. Before doing any work on the cockpit sole check the supports under them. They could be rotted and may need replacing. This will change your approach to how to attack the repair. Also, if you oil the teak, varnish will not adhere to the wood. You either go with oil OR a coating. I have used Cetol forever with great success. Good luck with your new boat. jimbo36
Thanks on the teak advice will see how the oil works, before i bought her we removed the overhead and took a look at her, no rot, she is in VERY good shape on the supports so i don't see a need replacing any components
as far as the power test, it was supposed to happen last Thursday but we all know how that went for Virginia...
Ok to address the power issue.... NONE of the dam breakers are labeled at all... theres a whole wall of them on the STBD side in the main cabin so it will take a second to figure out what goes where.... and i double checked the title, 1977 she is, need to verify the plate however its sort of far for me to drive out to check ATM.... will defiantly check when i get a chance...in s month or do i plan to know this boat in and out since she will be my residence lol.... so if anyone wants to buy my 34ft silverton shes up for sale
Not sure what you mean by the "overhead" but I am referring to the support under the aft cockpit. This was a problem area for the cockpit version of the tri cabin. The design provides scupper holes in the transom. The seal between the aft edge of the teak deck and the fiberglass hull at the transom leaks into the bilge and rot occurs in the deck supports. Pull the hatch cover between the aft berths and check the inner deck supports. particularly at the corners. jimbo36
