Aft deck waterproofing/drainage

[IRBMan35]

Hey everyone!

Been watching the forums here for a while and finally decided to post. I've decided to replace the aft deck on my 1973 F32 during the upcoming winter. It currently has the (what I imagine to be) original nonskid deck covered by a layer of 1/2" plastic sheeting of some sort installed by a previous owner, which is very slippery. I also don't care for the layout, which has two wide sheets on either side of a narrow center sheet, which means the lazarette hatch spans three pieces of material.

I plan on pulling out all the old decking, replacing any rotted support framing underneath, and laying down new glassed and non-skidded plywood. As part of this process, I'm installing new hatches and storage, and fixing the drainage on the deck.

Currently, water drains from the deck between the deck plates, and between the deck and gunwales, which are not caulked. It's then pumped over by the bilge pump. Not a great system. I would like to install deck drains and scuppers. Figuring out how to seal the deck is pretty easy. I'm having a hard time figuring out how to make a good transition from deck to gunwale. I don't want to just dump a bunch of caulk in there. I swear I've seen some type of plastic (maybe pvc?) molding which is 90 degrees, and for which there are corners or other joints. I could use that under the joint between the two with some caulk. But I can't seem to find anything like that online.

Does anyone have any ideas where to find this stuff, or other ideas for what I could do?

[captainmaniac]

Pictures of what you are facing would definitely help, as some of what you say doesn't make sense to me.

As a '73, your cockpit should be teak over plywood, not non-skid or plastic. Also have no idea have you mean about "I also don't care for the layout, which has two wide sheets on either side of a narrow center sheet, which means the lazarette hatch spans three pieces of material. Trojan built thousands of F32s, and design never changed, an and what you are describing doesn't make sense.

There is something seriously wrong about this.

[oil&water]

On my F36 back deck replacement, the deck never touches the side wall. A trim panel goes up along the side and hides the gap. If you do not want to use the trim panel idea, then you could take a kiln dried hardwood 2x4 and glass it onto the side of the boat. I'd recommend some sort of construction adhesive to hold everything up until the glass dries. From there set your epoxied plywood on top of the 2x4 and secure to it. Put a caulk seal under the plywood and on the edge of the plywood where it meets the side.

On my F36, which would be much easier to show you if my old Photobucket pics still worked, the ledger board goes from the bulkhead at the sliding doors to the transom. The area for the cleats is the only place it attaches to the sides. I went back with rough cut, mill dried white oak 1x6 which is actually 1-1/8" x 6-1/8" dimensionally. I am topping it with 3/4" epoxied plywood. The new deck is significantly stronger than the original deck even with it being three pieces of plywood, two at 4' and one at 3'.

[prowlersfish]

Some photos of what you have would help . My F36 has drains in the rear corners that go over board . Drains around the hatches go in to the bilge . Works well .

[WayWeGo]

I also would love to see photos from O&W.

And having drains on the cockpit hatches sounds wonderful. Our hatches have an aluminum lip that keeps out most of the water, but some goes under and drips on the generator and steering linkage. Just another thing on the list along with through hulls for the A/C drains. A drier bilge would be nice...